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Post by xl130 on Oct 29, 2020 7:18:01 GMT -5
I have a stripped out thread for the starter cover on my XL-130. I’ve never put coils in before.
The IPL says that the screw is 10-32. What coil do I need to fix this?
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Post by fossil on Oct 29, 2020 8:34:06 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 29, 2020 9:38:15 GMT -5
You'll need to find out what drill bit size to use.Sometimes you can buy the kit with the drill bit needed included.Or if you have a 13/64 (.2031 metric) bit on hand you're good to go.
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Post by xl130 on Oct 29, 2020 12:00:09 GMT -5
Lol. I guess that shows how much I know about thread sizes.... I guess I answered my own question when I stated the 10-32 screw! Thanks! |
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Post by fossil on Oct 29, 2020 14:58:31 GMT -5
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Post by xl130 on Oct 29, 2020 16:03:53 GMT -5
It’s in the mail. Thanks! |
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Post by fossil on Oct 29, 2020 18:42:05 GMT -5
Great! Someone in my family owes you one. I'm just about impossible to buy Christmas presents for and I have a couple of XL-76's with stripped screws so I put that kit on my list.
The only other thing I have on the list is a jar of mixed nuts from Costco.
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Post by xl130 on Nov 3, 2020 9:50:28 GMT -5
I used the coil kit last night. Seems ok I guess. Don’t really have anything to compare it to since it’s my first time using a thread repair kit.
I find that it’s easy to over tighten now and damage the insert. I had to replace one already......I’m used to tightening with a ratchet. Snug seems to be the key.....torque is bad.
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Post by fossil on Nov 3, 2020 13:00:06 GMT -5
Torque on the starter housing 10-32 bolts is only 50 in lbs.
A better alternative to spring type thread repair in some cases are E-Z LOK™ (Solid Wall) Threaded Inserts for Metal. Great units but not suitable (guessing) for some areas on the XL-76 / 130 saws as there is very little metal left after drilling and tapping for the insert. I measured a couple of bosses and there wouldn't be much left except paint.
They do come in thin wall but still too fat.
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Post by xl130 on Nov 3, 2020 13:30:24 GMT -5
I thought that I had drilled into the fuel tank for a moment...luckily did not. Definitely need to watch what your doing. That metal is really soft and a drill cuts it very fast!
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 3, 2020 14:35:41 GMT -5
That happened to me on my favorite EZ.The handle bracket mount was stripped out,so I figured I'd put a helicoil in.I used a brand new drill bit & it cut into that magnesium like a hot knife through butter.The drill bit sucked right on through almost entirely into the fuel tank.There was a small hole that I was able to seal up with Seal All.
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 4, 2020 8:53:56 GMT -5
Mag and brass are best drilled with a "spade" bit. Sort of like the flat spade bits used in wood. With a normal grind the bit will screw itself into the material and jam or break stuff or feed on through past where you wanted to stop. I use a thin cutoff wheel or sometimes the edge of a belt sander belt to grind a flat the cutting edge of the bit. The result is a cutting edge that is about 90 degrees to the work when the bit is started. It scrapes the metal instead of lifting a chip. The result is it does not self feed into the work. Small bits like used in this chainsaw work are pretty tricky to grind this way, a Dremel with a cutoff wheel seems to work best for me. Mounting the bit so it is steady keeps things aligned when grinding. I like sticking the bit in a vise.  You can see the flat spot where there normally would be a cutting edge that has resulted from the "spade" grinding. This can help with drilling plastics too. |
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