kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 14, 2018 21:25:02 GMT -5
Got the craisigst itch when I found some old saws and made the deals. Picked up a XL, Super Ez, and a 150. Also a couple McCULLOCHs. All three of my new to me homelites have very lightly scored pistons. On the XL, am I really looking at spending $30 on a piston and pin?! I will admit I am naive to old homelites. I do chainsaw milling on my MS880 so I don’t know much beyond newer Stihls. Is there any part swap groups or help the needy forms I can fill out!? (Just bought my first home and I thought I’d hang some restored homelites in the garage) On a serious note is there a suggested site or guy who has pistons and replacement parts better than what eBay results are showing me? Edit: oh, the noobie didn’t check the forum for the Piston sub forum. Shame on me. Here’s some pics to make up for my mistake. i.imgur.com/TDjRvDl_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=mediumi.imgur.com/mLJQBEW_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=mediumi.imgur.com/GkKbRTN_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2018 21:38:24 GMT -5
I seriously doubt you will find parts cheaper than on eBay, these saws have been out of production for decades. You could use them as wall hangers and save money. You really think 30 dollars is high for a out of production piston? Wait until you see a cylinder go for 400 dollars, because with some collector saws, that is not out of the realm of reality. This never happens with the saws you purchase at Home Depot, that's why so many old saws are sold, people don't want to spend the money to fix a saw that lasts 30 years, but will spend 3 times that for a new saw that might not last half that time. Modernity, that what today is called in social theory that examines these things. Society is very perplexing when it contains people, without people its really very simple
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 14, 2018 21:45:46 GMT -5
I seriously doubt you will find parts cheaper than on eBay, these saws have been out of production for decades. You could use them as wall hangers and save money. You really think 30 dollars is high for a out of production piston? Wait until you see a cylinder go for 400 dollars, because with some collector saws, that is not out of the realm of reality. This never happens with the saws you purchase at Home Depot, that's why so many old saws are sold, people don't want to spend the money to fix a saw that lasts 30 years, but will spend 3 times that for a new saw that might not last half that time. Modernity, that what today is called in social theory that examines these things. Society is very perplexing when it contains people, without people its really very simple The cheapo in me says yes it’s expensive! Who the heck would pay that for an small little piston that was made before I was born?! , but the realist in me thinks no it’s probably not expensive just higher than I previously expected. Business therory would say supply/demand results the price I’m finding. But you’re right and I would like to make these saws run again to see what built the foundation for the modern saw rather than make them just wall art. |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 14, 2018 22:07:19 GMT -5
Define lightly scored. Any pics? What kind of compression do they make? Most saws that old might be lightly carbon scored from the old oils. Don’t replace pistons if you don’t have to.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2018 22:21:26 GMT -5
The guys here will save you more money with good advice
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2018 23:15:19 GMT -5
BTW, Ebay is cheap, because they have sellers that sell after market pistons, rings and other parts. Many people are not keen on these parts and pay a little more (or even the same price) for NOS parts from Leon or Joyce (chainsawlady)
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 15, 2018 8:02:56 GMT -5
Do check compression before you think about replacing parts. If the cylinder is good, the piston may not matter so much and you could get by with rings. Nothing till you know about the compression unless you decide that you have plenty of money to spend. When you find out what parts you need, do check with Leon (onlyhomelites) and Joyce (chainsawlady). IPL's listed here: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/parts-diagrams.html |
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 15, 2018 9:30:39 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the advice. I had at most 90 psi. I posted pics not sure if they are showing up. I click the links and they work for me. I will definitely need seals and will replace fuel lines and already ordered carb kits for the saws. These saws are so cool and want to see them run again.
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 15, 2018 9:36:05 GMT -5
Pictures are fine.
You might try acetone/atf 50/50 mix in the cylinder. Rings are often stuck with carbon and old oil, this stuff soaking in there for a while will often free them up to raise compression.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 15, 2018 11:32:20 GMT -5
With the jug apart should soak the cylinder walls with the mix? Could I use my berrymans carb cleaner solution for the piston? For the brass washers do I need to have a certain thickness on those for a pass fail on replacing them?
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 15, 2018 11:45:49 GMT -5
With the jug apart should soak the cylinder walls with the mix? Could I use my berrymans carb cleaner solution for the piston? For the brass washers do I need to have a certain thickness on those for a pass fail on replacing them? First, what saw are you working on? Any pics of the piston? |
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 15, 2018 11:57:53 GMT -5
Sorry my pictures didn’t post correctly. Homelite XL Here’s the piston in question. Looks a little worse in the photo than in person   |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 15, 2018 12:19:53 GMT -5
That piston has seen very little use, you can still see the machine marks on it, although it does look like something unwanted has went through the engine. Possibly a piece of carbon as something metal would have did much more damage. What does the ring look like at that bag spot? What does the cylinder look like where that bad spot?
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 15, 2018 13:05:38 GMT -5
With the jug apart should soak the cylinder walls with the mix? Could I use my berrymans carb cleaner solution for the piston? The acetone/atf mix is for an assembled engine, I put it in through the plug hole or the exhaust port. Enough to soak the piston ring area and combustion chamber. A couple tablespoons is enough, turn the engine over and let it soak a while, 2 or 3x. I don't know about Berrymans, never used it but I would guess it will clear off varnish. Your piston actually looks pretty good, like undee said. |
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 15, 2018 13:32:08 GMT -5
Wow you guys are really helpful and quick to reply. Thank you! Here are photos of the cylinder walls where I found the scoring   |
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Post by sweepleader on Aug 15, 2018 13:37:00 GMT -5
I think undee is right about something going through the engine, the scuff looks like it is right at the transfer port.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 15, 2018 21:03:13 GMT -5
Are there more than two seals on the XL auto? I’m looking at the parts list and I see two seals 94638. Anything else I should be replacing while I got the saw apart to ensure no air leaks?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 15, 2018 22:01:10 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Aug 15, 2018 23:26:25 GMT -5
Quite a bit of carbon on top of the piston. Previous owner may have run it with the usual ridiculously heavy oil/gas mix. Any good quality 2 cycle oil can be run at 50:1 in these saws now. You can ignore the 32:1 designation you might see on the cap or elsewhere, that was for old, 2 cycle oils that were not up to the specs of today's oils. Lot & lots of banter about that in older posts if you just do a quick search.
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kodak
Dumpster Diver
Posts: 21
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Post by kodak on Aug 16, 2018 7:46:17 GMT -5
SO I use the shim to set the gap and remove them before sealing ssealing the crankcase? |
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