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Post by uncleb on Feb 8, 2009 20:53:04 GMT -5
Well, I finally got the EZ done and running fine. Final touch was the decals. Great reproductions and very well made. I feel they are much sturdier that indicated in the instructions, but by all means follow the instructions with the special chemicals.
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Post by Urbanchainsawer on Feb 8, 2009 21:24:51 GMT -5
Beautiful job! I agree, Joe's decals are an asset to the hobby. They give us the incentive to restore these great classics when in the past, we may have been reluctant because of inavailability. Now you need to work on that bar with one of his stencils. I am experimenting with a stencil kit right now. Will post pics when finished.
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Post by uncleb on Feb 8, 2009 21:47:22 GMT -5
Thanks. Yeah, the bar is next. Just couldn't wait to post the photos. Shame - the bar doesn't seem to be worn, just got real rusty. I spent some gentle time on it with light sandpaper and WD 40. I'll probably take it down bare, add chrome paint, and then the stencils. I have another bar I will use for demonstration.
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Post by Urbanchainsawer on Feb 8, 2009 22:18:36 GMT -5
Can I ask- what paint did you use? I used an engine enamel from the auto parts stores on my C9. It turned out nice, but seems to chip pretty easily. I guess powder coating would be the best.
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Post by OBR on Feb 8, 2009 23:01:34 GMT -5
On the topic of paint, I hope to one day acquire a 909 and at that time it will be in for a full resto. I was thinking I'd have the auto body shop in town paint match it and I'd use that (I would suppose a ppg product or similar as far as actual paint) then strip the metal down bare (how do you guys do this? I've heard sandblasting can cause pitting in the mag.) and spray on paint, then bake to harden. then decals and finish with a quality clear coat. Is this the appropriate way to go about this? Oh one last question, what would be the cost comparison of this process to powdercoating? any ideas? Thanks fellas, please 'scuse all my questions as ignorant as they may be, im new to the saw restoration process, least the paint part of it.
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Post by uncleb on Feb 8, 2009 23:43:56 GMT -5
I did some light sandblasting followed by 220 grit paper. In some places I only used citrus stripper followed by 220 grit. I used Tractor restoration paint from Tractor Supply (Massey Fergusen Red - at least 3 coats) and after about a week, clear coated with clear gloss urethane. I did the clear coat before the decals were available. Not sure if I'll clear coat over the decals or not since I don't plan to run this a lot. Powdercoat would definitely be more durable if you could get the color matched.
Speaking of color match, on a second saw I bought, I found that areas not exposed to light were still very red and a good match to the MF red I used. The orig paint must have faded from light exposure.
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Post by Urbanchainsawer on Feb 9, 2009 20:25:43 GMT -5
I use aircraft stripper that can be purchased at auto paint stores. Works very well. I would not hesitate to blast with lighter media other than sand, which will definately pit. As far as powder coating, have you ever seen Darrins saws? They are all powder coated and beautiful at that. If you are going to go through the trouble of having a body shop paint your parts, I would definately go the next step to powder coating. From what I gather, it has come down in price and is very comparable to base coat, clear coat. Then, after you have it powder coated, you can apply the decals and spray a rattle can clear over the finished product. Hope this helps.
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Post by uncleb on Jun 5, 2009 22:14:08 GMT -5
Here is the first saw with the newly painted bar. Had to widen the stencil a little to fit the bar but it turned out pretty good.
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Post by RandyMac on Jun 6, 2009 0:32:39 GMT -5
Great job, looks wonderfull, amazing.
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Post by huck01955 on Jun 7, 2012 22:29:56 GMT -5
Very nice work
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