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Post by brushy on Feb 28, 2018 20:53:49 GMT -5
I have a b2316 with no spark. I was going to check the gap but dont know what it should be set at. Any idea where to find it?
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 28, 2018 21:04:13 GMT -5
What is a B2316? I’m assuming your talking about the coil to flywheel gap. If so most are at .015.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2018 21:04:14 GMT -5
I’m not much help and have never even heard of a b2316 but I want to say that so far all of the saws and small engines I have dealt with have had an air gap of .015 - .020. But surely someone far more knowledgeable than me will be along soon
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Post by brushy on Feb 28, 2018 21:10:26 GMT -5
Its a 38cc saw, john deere. Also saw it called an all american. Ill post picks once i make some progress on it. Another freebie that needs some work....and parts.
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Post by brushy on Mar 10, 2018 12:48:31 GMT -5
Ok, so I set the gap at .015, no spark. Ordered a new coil, no spark. New spark plug, no spark. Set gap on spark plug, no spark. Not sure of the next step. The wire from the coil to the switch has been spliced, and I’m going to order a new wire harness and switch. Hopefully, that will be the solution.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2018 13:24:39 GMT -5
Does this saw have points & condenser,or does it have the ignition module?
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Post by brushy on Mar 10, 2018 21:30:22 GMT -5
It has electronic ignition module. I found an aftermarket module through a third party seller on Walmart.com. I just hope I didn’t get a lemon. If the ground wire is shot, replacing it should work.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 10, 2018 21:53:15 GMT -5
You can also try to eliminate the on/off switch,if the saw fires up with the switch disconnected,then you have a bad switch.But I'm sure the switch is good because you said that when you pulled it over you had good blue spark.It could very well be that spliced wire working intermittently.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 11, 2018 7:56:55 GMT -5
I just went through this on my 8800...if you go through everything else, including a new coil and you still don't have spark, you better take a look at the flywheel. Specifically the strength of the magnets; the giveaway in hindsight on my saw was that the old flywheel barely had enough pull to hold the coil through my gapping tool (business card). I've since read about flywheels a bit more and found that excessive heat or a hard hit in the right spot can cause a magnet to fail.
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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 8:56:16 GMT -5
You can also try to eliminate the on/off switch,if the saw fires up with the switch disconnected,then you have a bad switch.But I'm sure the switch is good because you said that when you pulled it over you had good blue spark.It could very well be that spliced wire working intermittently. I actually don’t have any spark, that’s where I’m stuck. I’m not sure what you mean by eliminating the switch. Would I have to clamp the two wires together, thus closing the circuit?
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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 9:02:26 GMT -5
I just went through this on my 8800...if you go through everything else, including a new coil and you still don't have spark, you better take a look at the flywheel. Specifically the strength of the magnets; the giveaway in hindsight on my saw was that the old flywheel barely had enough pull to hold the coil through my gapping tool (business card). I've since read about flywheels a bit more and found that excessive heat or a hard hit in the right spot can cause a magnet to fail. The magnet seems pretty strong, when I go in to tighten the bolts on the coil, my screwdriver gets pulled right in (lol). I guess the flywheel will be the last stop, if all else fails.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 10:17:22 GMT -5
By eliminating,or bypassing the switch you just unhook the wire that comes from the coil & goes to the switch.You can take the wire off completely,or you can tape up the exposed end so it won't ground out anywhere.This is much easier than pulling the flywheel.If this procedure doesn't work with the switch being eliminated,then move on to the flywheel.Also,take a good close look at the wire,there may be a break in it somewhere.Making a newe wire is very easy,just get two clip on electrical ends & a piece of wire the same gauge.Strip both ends of the newe wire & put the stripped ends into the electrical connectors.I've found that a Linesman's pliers works well in squeezing the electrical ends closed.After this is done,I gently tug on ther wre while holding the electrical connector to make sure that they're in therer good & make a good connection & don't come apart.I feel that between the switch & the wire from the coil tp the switch is your problem rather than the flywheel. I read so many posts that I got your post confused with someone else's post.It is also possible that as you said,you might have gotten a "lemon"ignition module.If you can put the coil on a diagnostic meter,it should test around 8 ohms.If you get nothing for a reading,then you have a dead ignition module.All of this testing is much easier than pulling a flywheel.You can't assume that since a part is new that it's automatically good.If you still have the oil ignition module,you might try baking it in a 200 degree oven for two hrs.This can bring them"back to life".
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 11, 2018 10:20:17 GMT -5
You can also try to eliminate the on/off switch,if the saw fires up with the switch disconnected,then you have a bad switch.But I'm sure the switch is good because you said that when you pulled it over you had good blue spark.It could very well be that spliced wire working intermittently. I actually don’t have any spark, that’s where I’m stuck. I’m not sure what you mean by eliminating the switch. Would I have to clamp the two wires together, thus closing the circuit? He means that you should disconnect the switch from the module. If the switch or wire are defective and ground when the switch is in the "On" postition, there will be no spark. The wire should be insulated from all grounded metal for this test. When the switch is in the "Off" position, it grounds the wire to the frame of the saw and kills the spark. The same thing can happen if the switch is bad or the insulation on the wire fails. Be sure the wire remains ungrounded for this test, not connected to anything other than the module. If it can be disconnected from the module, that is even better.
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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 11:20:09 GMT -5
By eliminating,or bypassing the switch you just unhook the wire that comes from the coil & goes to the switch.You can take the wire off completely,or you can tape up the exposed end so it won't ground out anywhere.This is much easier than pulling the flywheel.If this procedure doesn't work with the switch being eliminated,then move on to the flywheel.Also,take a good close look at the wire,there may be a break in it somewhere.Making a newe wire is very easy,just get two clip on electrical ends & a piece of wire the same gauge.Strip both ends of the newe wire & put the stripped ends into the electrical connectors.I've found that a Linesman's pliers works well in squeezing the electrical ends closed.After this is done,I gently tug on ther wre while holding the electrical connector to make sure that they're in therer good & make a good connection & don't come apart.I feel that between the switch & the wire from the coil tp the switch is your problem rather than the flywheel. I read so many posts that I got your post confused with someone else's post.It is also possible that as you said,you might have gotten a "lemon"ignition module.If you can put the coil on a diagnostic meter,it should test around 8 ohms.If you get nothing for a reading,then you have a dead ignition module.All of this testing is much easier than pulling a flywheel.You can't assume that since a part is new that it's automatically good.If you still have the oil ignition module,you might try baking it in a 200 degree oven for two hrs.This can bring them"back to life". The new coil tested at 3.9 on my multimeter set to 20k. The old coil tested at 2.9. Is the new coil shot already?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 11:54:08 GMT -5
Try dropping the setting down to 100 & see what your reading is.It should test between 7 & 8 ohms.Either your old module wasn't bad to begin with,or your new module is faulty.Retest the old module at the new setting as well. If someone else would like to step in here,by all means do so.I don't want to give out bad advice.I am by no means an expert here.
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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 15:53:04 GMT -5
Try dropping the setting down to 100 & see what your reading is.It should test between 7 & 8 ohms.Either your old module wasn't bad to begin with,or your new module is faulty.Retest the old module at the new setting as well. If someone else would like to step in here,by all means do so.I don't want to give out bad advice.I am by no means an expert here. I don’t have a 100 setting on my multimeter. Only at 20k or 200k do I get a reading at all. It is showing 3.9 or 4. I’ve read for small engines that the 20k reading should show 2.5 to 5. If this is right, the old and new coils should be good. I’ve contacted the manufacturer to see if they could tell me what the gap setting is.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 17:06:19 GMT -5
The gap setting on the ignition module should be the same as a coil - .015.I have a multi - meter that a friend let me borrow.It has a setting for ohms.I know a good coil should havde a reading of right around 8 ohms,I know this from an old thread here in "Ignition Systems".It was very straightforward & easy to understand.You said that your flywheel magnet is pretty strong because it sucks your screwdriver right over when you try to tighten down the screws,so I think we can eliminate the flywheel as being bad.Have you tried eliminating the switch yet?If you do this & your saw starts up,don't panic.All you have to do is choke it out to stop it.Always start at the simplest place for eliminating things.
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Post by fossil on Mar 11, 2018 17:20:47 GMT -5
brushy Pull the switch wire off at the module. That will eliminate the wiring and the switch. All the switch does is short the coil to ground. Not much metal to ground that wire to in the saw but it's a cheap easy test. The switches do go bad and usually ground out when they do. If you do some reading on the air gap module laminations to flywheel, there is a lot of latitude. The magnets on the flywheel do give out some times but if they will hold a larger screwdriver they are OK.
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Post by brushy on Mar 11, 2018 18:33:00 GMT -5
I’m figuring it’s a bad coil. The old and new give a reading below 4, so I’m going to send the new one back. Maybe the next one will work. In the meantime, I’ll be working on the fuel system and I’m sure I’ll have some posts in that thread. Thanks, all.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 11, 2018 18:41:44 GMT -5
Try this Brushy - put your old coil in a 200 degree oven for 2 hrs.Take it out & let it cool overnight.Leon & several other members here have done this & it works! Apparently moisture gets into these modules & makes them defective,but by baking them it dries out the moisture & makes them useable again.The success rate is about 90%.Don't do it with the new one you just bought.You've got nothing to lose,right?
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