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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2017 17:48:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the info! I have the full wrap handle,so I'm assuming that I have a 450W.The guy I bought t from on ebay is in Idaho,which is close to the west coast.Here' s exactly what he wrote in the description - "Great running older saw,oils great,see pictures for video screen shots.The saw is missing all the stickers,but from research & comparison to similar models this is a 450,biggest reason of which the single carb adjustment screw.Saw will come with 3/8 .050 18 in.bar & 2 chains,one is a brand new full chisel Stihl chain.Saw is in great shape for the age & had a full wrap top handle."Now I'm not an expert here,correct me if I'm wrong,but I do know that modern carbs have 3 adjustment screws,one each for Hi & Lo mixture & one for setting the idle speed.Maybe the guy only knows 4 cycle engines?The saw also came with a 25 in.bar & chain.I can use them all on my Stihl MS310. Yeah,I'm going to get the auto-oiler line out of the tank & blow some air through it.Maybe that's all it needs.If I need to as a last resort I'll pull the pump out & see what's going on there as well.I'll keep you all posted.
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 29, 2017 17:56:09 GMT -5
Nice when the seller is up front with you, eh?
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 29, 2017 18:22:37 GMT -5
Also,looking at the IPL there,I don't see any"diaphragm"for the auto-oiler on the 450. The diaphragm is part number 24 in the figure. It's got a metal pin in the center that sticks down into the pump body (part 22). Yours may or may not have the gaskets on either side of the diaphragm... I think Oh, and you're right, ya should be able to get to the auto oiler without removing the clutch. I haven't played with one in a while and my first thought was the clutch would need to come off, but after looking I think you'll have plenty of room. Took a pic of it below. Dan
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Post by lesorubcheek on Dec 29, 2017 18:28:44 GMT -5
I have no clue why the IPL pic is showing so small. It's supposed to be 6"x8" with a 150dpi. Anyway, hopefully you can tell from your IPL what parts I'm talking about. There were at least a couple versions of 450 IPLs though, so you may have a different one. I think there were at least 2 revisions to 450s.
Dan
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 29, 2017 22:11:51 GMT -5
Both the IPL and the pic blow up fine when I click on them. :{)
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2017 12:11:44 GMT -5
Sweepleader, I took a look at the IPL again & I was able to enlarge it on my PC.It doesn't look that complicated at all.Probably the thing I'd worry about most of all is the spring that's in there,I don't want it to come flying out & get lost. As for the gaskets,I can make my own if need be,I read a post on here about how to make them,plus I've done it before.I had a guy who I've been going to for the past 3 or 4 yrs.to have my saws worked on.It was kind of obvious that he didn't want to work on my McCulloch Timberbear because he made every excuse under the sun as to why he"couldn't"work on the saw.I asked him to find out why my auto-oiler wasn't working on it.That was a couple of yrs.ago.I've also got a Frontier F35 in his shop since last July,all it needed was to put a spring on the clutch,rebuild the carb,put a new on/off switch in the handle,& cut a chain to fit.I supplied him with all the parts except the carb rebuild kit.The saw is still there.I had two other saws there too that only needed the carbs rebuilt,but I picked them up in Oct.because he didn't do anything to them after they were there sitting for 3 months.It's guys like him that really tick me off.I have difficulty in rebuilding carbs because of my visual problems,& I've never been successful in rebuilding one.I did find a site called Saw Again that will rebuild your carb for you for $35 which includes shipping,& their turn around time is 48-72 hrs.after they get your carb.I've got at least 3 carbs that I need to send there,but I'm trying to scrape up the money for it.Right now I want to concentrate on my 450 auto-oiler.Happy New Year!
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 30, 2017 16:18:53 GMT -5
Maybe you could find a neighbor kid to mess with the carbs...
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Post by undee70ss on Dec 30, 2017 16:45:53 GMT -5
[quote timestamp="1514589757" source="/post/34834/thread" author=" lesorubcheek "You must have been thinking of the XL/Super 2, those, the clutch does have to come off.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2017 20:35:50 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I did manage to get the other line out of the tank & blow some air through the line.I fired up the saw & it seemed to put out a tiny trickle of oil,but nowhere's near enough.So I decided to start disassembling the oiler.I took the cover off,there's no gasket there.Then I took the diaphragm out,man was that thing loaded up with crud!.If that's any indication of what the rest of the auto-oiler is like,it no wonder that it isn't putting out any oil.There's a snap ring on there that holds the oiler body in,along with the rest of the oiling assembly.Unfortunately I don't have a small enough snap ring pliers to take the snap ring off,so I put it back together & thought I might get lucky.It was a good thought til I fired up the saw & found it didn't do any good.I'm thinking that the oiling system is just full of crud & crap from years of having small particles of sawdust getting into the system.At most I might need a new diaphragm.I'm going to try to borrow the snap ring pliers from a friend of mine,if he has one.Otherwise I'll probably end up buying another one small enough.Many years ago I had one that one could interchange the points on the end of the pliers,but over the years the smaller points got lost.I'm getting there guys! As for getting a neighborhood kid to help rebuild a carb,yeah right.Your talking about the new generation that doesn't like getting their hands dirty.I'm going to try to get my son interested in the carb rebuilding.He's 23 & has a good mechanical aptitude.I'm sure if I get him interested he'd do it for me.He helped me put the manual oiler line back on the barb the other day after he got home from work.Now it's time for lasagna!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2018 12:02:20 GMT -5
I read this on another site (arborist).This pertains to the diaphragm on the 450 auto-oiler:"Can you just skip the diaphram plunger (metering?) pump and plumb him like an XL?
Plug the passage under the pump cover. Tell me what you guys think about this approach.Maybe too much Mickey Mousing?I did find a plunger/diaphragm on ebay thanks to someone here who sent me a link,but he wants $18.70 plus $3 shipping.That's a lot of money for that little part,in my opinion.I did notice that after the saw sits for a while there are a couple of drops of oil that leak past the pump body,is that normal,or is there a problem with the check valve not seating properly?
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 4, 2018 12:35:05 GMT -5
I don't know about the oiler or drips but for snap ring pliers I do have an opinion. I use Knipex only. One size, one pliers, no interchangeable tips and they are real pliers, not sheet metal stampings. www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1365&groupID=1455They are not cheap, but then they are not cheap. I have never broken one or lost the tip, they are guaranteed for life and available lots of places.
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Post by undee70ss on Jan 4, 2018 16:33:28 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I did manage to get the other line out of the tank & blow some air through the line.I fired up the saw & it seemed to put out a tiny trickle of oil,but nowhere's near enough.So I decided to start disassembling the oiler.I took the cover off,there's no gasket there.Then I took the diaphragm out,man was that thing loaded up with crud!.If that's any indication of what the rest of the auto-oiler is like,it no wonder that it isn't putting out any oil.There's a snap ring on there that holds the oiler body in,along with the rest of the oiling assembly.Unfortunately I don't have a small enough snap ring pliers to take the snap ring off,so I put it back together & thought I might get lucky.It was a good thought til I fired up the saw & found it didn't do any good.I'm thinking that the oiling system is just full of crud & crap from years of having small particles of sawdust getting into the system.At most I might need a new diaphragm.I'm going to try to borrow the snap ring pliers from a friend of mine,if he has one.Otherwise I'll probably end up buying another one small enough.Many years ago I had one that one could interchange the points on the end of the pliers,but over the years the smaller points got lost.I'm getting there guys! As for getting a neighborhood kid to help rebuild a carb,yeah right.Your talking about the new generation that doesn't like getting their hands dirty.I'm going to try to get my son interested in the carb rebuilding.He's 23 & has a good mechanical aptitude.I'm sure if I get him interested he'd do it for me.He helped me put the manual oiler line back on the barb the other day after he got home from work.Now it's time for lasagna! Was there any gaskets at all on the diaphragm? One side of the diaphragm is exposed to the crankcase pulses, the other to the outside. The should be a hole to the outside, other side of hole is a filter. If this is all plugged up with crud, diaphragm won't pump well. The only way to get to filter is to remove gas/oil tank. The filter is just a sponge just crammed in there. A cut piece of a air filter from a XL works well as a replacement.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2018 20:16:56 GMT -5
There were NO gaskets at all on the outer part of the diaphragm.There was just the cover & then the diaphragm,that's as far as I've gotten thus far.I did get a pair of snap ring pliers from a friend,but they were too big.He says he has another smaller pair I can use,but getting there to get them is another story,I can't drive so I have to rely on people carting me around. On a lighter note,I called my local chainsaw dealer.He says he has a bunch of old Homelites in his storage barn & he'd sell them to me for $15-$20 each.That's probably what he allowed for a trade in in the first place.I told him what I was looking for & he said he thought he had a few out there.He was supposed to call me back before he closed his shop,but he must've gotten busy.I've dealt with him since he opened his business in 1982 up until about 10 yrs.ago when he & one of his employees screwed me over on a saw that I bought from him a couple of yrs.previously.I told him I thought the carb had trouble,so without checking the saw out like he should have done,he just rebuilt the carb & never tested it.I brought it home & had the same problem,so I took it back.That's when he checked it out completely & told me the bearings were bad.I asked him how much to fix it & he told me I'd be better off with a new saw.I asked him how much he'd allow me for a trade in,he said $10.That totally pissed me off because I just paid $50 to rebuild the carb.Two yrs.later I took that saw to another dealer & he gave me $75 trade in on a new saw.There was only $10 difference in the price of the saw between the two saw dealers.I found someone else to work on my saws.Then that guy has been putting me off on a saw that I took to him in July,I'm still waiting for him to fix that saw - it didn't need much done to it,I needed a chain cut to fit the saw,a spring put in the clutch,an on/off switch put in,& a carb rebuild.I had plenty of work for the guy with other saws,but he just didn't want to work on the saw.I picked up two other saws that were there for 3 mo.that he didn't touch either.It ticks me off to no end that nobody wants to work on olderr saws.All they want to do is sell a new one & then only service it f or about 5 yrs. Sorry about the rant.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 4, 2018 20:41:14 GMT -5
Well all that is a good reason not to pay those guys to work on your stuff. Besides, its great fun to do it yourself and you know it is done right. Put together a pile of saws from his barn, shoot him a low price on the pile, not on individual saws, then send them to me! :{)
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 10:14:31 GMT -5
If you're serious Dan,I can get you all the Homelites he has.He only wants to work on Stihls & Husqvarnas that he sells.He used to sell Jonsereds yrs.ago when he first opened up & Olympiks too,but he got away from those saws.He has a web site, if you're interested I'll give that to you.They say that they workl on all makes,but I've found that he likes to complain about it & make excuses why he doesn't want to work on them.Let me know how much you're willing to spend.What state do you live in? I ask this question because as far as shipping goes,if you live west of the Mississippi,then shipping rates get sky high.That's the problem with shipping,it jacks up the cost of the product,& they never give you the price that the shipper actually charges.This guy says he's got some Homelites that are like new XL's,XL-12's.I'll let you know exactly what he's got.I hope to get there today. As far as working on my own saws,I do as much as I can.I don't have any specialty tools that are sometimes needed to work on different brands.I got interested in collecting older saws back about 6 mo.ago.I managed to get quite a few of them on ebay.I think at last count I have about 43,some of which are my everyday saws that I use to cut,& others that are stricktly parts saws.I have Jonsereds,Husqvarnas,Partner,McCullochs,Stihls,Frontiers,Montgomery Ward (Remington),& Skils.I've only gotten a few of them running thus far,but I've got lots of time on my hands.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 5, 2018 10:39:57 GMT -5
Thanks much but I am not really serious. Sounds like a good source for you locally though. The shipping would kill any advantage, even if they were free. Thanks though. Old saws are fun!
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