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Post by undee70ss on Aug 24, 2017 19:04:54 GMT -5
I got this big saw a while ago, but just started working on it a few days ago. It is the first gear drive I have ever worked on. 1st observations hints to this saw was rebuilt sometime in its lifetime. It looks like the cylinder shield, muffler cover, bottom handle brace, drive case cover and air filter cover were replaced, and possibly the carb as the wear on these doesn't match the rest of the saw. It does have a few issues. First one was the chain always moved when the rope was pulled, After getting it apart, a thrust washer was missing between the clutch and clutch drum. It was nowhere to be seen in the gearbox so I assume the last guy who worked on it forgot to reinstall it. At first compression seemed low, but the compression release lever was just flopping in the wind, the holders were missing. Well the compression release spring was also missing. Even though the piston looked good, still wanted to do a compression test before going any further, so I borrowed one off another big saw. CR is almost 170. The starter had issues also, both the pulley and housing were cracked, probably from the rope that was way to short. If I can find all the parts, hopefully will have a running saw in a few weeks.   |
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Post by undee70ss on Aug 24, 2017 19:14:38 GMT -5
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 25, 2017 8:21:34 GMT -5
Nice project Greg! In all reality, that saw looks to be in great shape given how hard these were worked. Look forward to seeing your progress!
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 27, 2017 14:54:37 GMT -5
We have a runner! Still have a few issues to take care of. One, the muffler has a pin size hole in it. Someone put to long of a screw in the cylinder shield and vibration put the hole there. If I had a tig welder it would be a no brainer. Other than that muffler is in great shape. Other is the starter. I got all new parts, go to put it together but don’t have any of the right size rope, DUH!!!! ( that poison ivy must had made me forget about it) I’m decent on pictures, not so much on video ( I ain’t no Leon) This is only the 2nd video I have ever uploaded to YouTube so be gentle, the first one was over a decade ago. youtu.be/TJtfzfulcl0 |
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Nov 27, 2017 19:59:24 GMT -5
Runs like a champ!
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 27, 2017 20:56:43 GMT -5
Looks great, video is fine, better than a lot I have see. Thanks for sharing it.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 27, 2017 21:26:34 GMT -5
Great video! What a saw. Beautiful! Now to find some big wood to put it to work.
Dan
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 27, 2017 21:28:14 GMT -5
Sounds awesome Greg! By the way, I see you use craftsman screwsdrivers as well, LOL!
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 27, 2017 21:42:58 GMT -5
Sounds awesome Greg! By the way, I see you use craftsman screwsdrivers as well, LOL! Almost all my tools are Craftsman. At least I got them all be they started making them in China. Being this the first gear drive I worked on, I thought I had a oil pump problem, saw is sitting there idling and no oil. It would only oil when I brought the rpms up. I started typing a post about it them just realized, the oil pump is on the gear side after the clutch. So it only oils when the clutch is in gauged, just like a modern saw. DUH! |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 27, 2017 22:16:01 GMT -5
That's a neat machine there. Love the gear drive. Sounds like music in the video.
I have a TIG, not the best machine and my skills are on the rusty side too, especially on thin metal. I'd tell you to mail it to me but I'd need to spend half a day tweaking my machine (which I need to do anyway) and practicing on thin material to be confident I wouldn't screw it up. Is the inside reasonably accessible to clean up the metal and get a piece of copper backer in there?
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 28, 2017 3:12:57 GMT -5
I have a TIG, not the best machine and my skills are on the rusty side too, especially on thin metal. I'd tell you to mail it to me but I'd need to spend half a day tweaking my machine (which I need to do anyway) and practicing on thin material to be confident I wouldn't screw it up. Is the inside reasonably accessible to clean up the metal and get a piece of copper backer in there? Thanks for the offer. What model Tig do you have? Tig welders have a foot pedal control, and are superior for working on thin metals. The hole is right near a corner, welding from the inside would be tough. I would weld from the outside and grind/sand flush. It is hidden by the muffler shield anyways. I have a AC "buzz box" (AC only arc welder) and oxy/acy torches. I could try gas welding it, but Im afraid distortion might be a problem. |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 28, 2017 7:38:17 GMT -5
If you have a gas welder you can do it with that. Like Jersey said, put a copper backer inside the muffler and weld from the outside. He was not suggesting welding from the inside. The copper will suck heat out of any burn through and make welding cleanly much easier.
Clean the inside surface where the copper will go so the copper can get closer to the steel. The copper does not have to be real thick, a split and flattened copper pipe will do. Make it as big/thick as you can, it will suck more heat that way. Bend it so you can clamp it in a vise and set the muffler on top, use gravity. Or use a clamp to hold the copper tight to the muffler, it needs to be in contact with the steel. The copper will help prevent a huge hole replacing the small one you have now. Use your smallest welding tip.
Use a small weld wire, even soft mechanics wire will do, should be no thicker than the muffler. You only need a little spot so keep the heat only on that area, melt the filler wire onto the spot then melt it in. Grind. 15 minutes and you are done.
I would rather do that job with gas even though I have TIG, mainly for the setup time and my TIG is huge (Up to 480 amps) and hard to control on real fine work.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 28, 2017 8:59:30 GMT -5
I've seen a lot of brazing repairs done on these old mufflers...is this the type of rod you are talking about using Dan?
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 28, 2017 10:00:58 GMT -5
No, not brazing. That would show in the finished product although I suspect it would hold OK. Unless the muffler got red hot, then something else is wrong with the engine. Welding with steel wire/rod on steel could be ground flush and blasted, then blackened with gun blue or whatever and would be VERY hard to see. I would prefer that method on a collector saw. I normally try to make repairs invisible.
My XL-500 mods were a little radical I admit, for a collector saw. I think however that I would never entertain thoughts of selling it so I really don't care what others think of it. I like it the way it is and that is what is important to me. I would hope that is the attitude that most true collectors have, personal satisfaction. Very few people would see what I have done. Very much the same thing with my '62 truck, I knew I was ruining the "collector" value by boring holes, welding, and tossing original parts. (I did keep all the XL-500 parts, just in case.)
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2017 11:01:42 GMT -5
Sounds awesome Greg! By the way, I see you use craftsman screwsdrivers as well, LOL! Almost all my tools are Craftsman. At least I got them all be they started making them in China. Being this the first gear drive I worked on, I thought I had a oil pump problem, saw is sitting there idling and no oil. It would only oil when I brought the rpms up. I started typing a post about it them just realized, the oil pump is on the gear side after the clutch. So it only oils when the clutch is in gauged, just like a modern saw. DUH! The video was great, I like Craftsman as well, just found a new 3/8" Craftsman 75 tooth ratchet for 12.00, the thing rocks! |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 28, 2017 18:11:12 GMT -5
I have a TIG, not the best machine and my skills are on the rusty side too, especially on thin metal. I'd tell you to mail it to me but I'd need to spend half a day tweaking my machine (which I need to do anyway) and practicing on thin material to be confident I wouldn't screw it up. Is the inside reasonably accessible to clean up the metal and get a piece of copper backer in there? Thanks for the offer. What model Tig do you have? Tig welders have a foot pedal control, and are superior for working on thin metals. The hole is right near a corner, welding from the inside would be tough. I would weld from the outside and grind/sand flush. It is hidden by the muffler shield anyways. I have a AC "buzz box" (AC only arc welder) and oxy/acy torches. I could try gas welding it, but Im afraid distortion might be a problem. I have an Eastwood TIG 200. It's a cheaper, all electronic model, not much in the way of bells & whistles. Wouldn't have been my first choice but it was a gift a friend gave me after I did some work for him and wouldn't take any money. I used to be able to weld two soda cans together on a more industrial Lincoln Electric square wave transformer machine, but that was years ago. That thing welded Aluminum like a laser. It does fine with thicker metals but both it and I have issues at low amperage. Turned way down, it doesn't produce enough light for me to see the puddle and the arc wanders too. Hate to admit it, but I think one problem is it's time for a magnifying lens in the welding helmet. I'm also wondering if I got a tank of bad Argon, cause the arc is so green (through the helmet lens) and doesn't produce enough light for me to see what I'm doing. The other problem is I've just been out of the game for a long time and the infrequent use doesn't help. I am looking forward to trying my hand at welding Magnesium at some point. Figure I'll get a parts saw sooner or later that one or two of the case parts are beyond hope & can practice on them. Dan's explanation of the technique using copper was spot on. Saved me a lot of typing there.  I always use stainless filler wire for everything, you can go back over it as many times as you want and save yourself a good bit of grinding. |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 28, 2017 19:10:52 GMT -5
At some point I'm gonna figure out where to preserve the part of this thread that deals with welding...need to get it broken out to where future members can find it easily. Tons of good information hear about welding & thin metal repairs, thank you guys!
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 28, 2017 21:25:11 GMT -5
Just make a thread that says to look here if you want, that's what you told me to do!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 29, 2017 0:14:04 GMT -5
Quoting my own logic to me...either you've seen the wisdom of my ways or my insanity is contagious!
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Post by undee70ss on Nov 29, 2017 2:21:54 GMT -5
Just make a thread that says to look here if you want, that's what you told me to do! That’s telling him!!! |
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I always use stainless filler wire for everything, you can go back over it as many times as you want and save yourself a good bit of grinding.