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Post by 2stroked on Apr 12, 2016 9:48:44 GMT -5
sweepleader, awesome info. I am confident that if I could find a bigger jug, the crank and con rod combo I have will be sweet. The only thing I am worried about is the cylinder stud spacing.
The power sports guy quoted me a price of just 25$ to balance the crank when I swap the rod. With added con rod length, I am not sure if the crank case could handle the extra torque. I know these saws are beasts, but still not sure.
Was thinking, if I built another spacer plate, and made the thing to an adapter for the studs, I would have to use the Mina Piston in the Mina jug.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 12, 2016 20:13:47 GMT -5
Still can't get this son of a buck to draw fuel. It will run all day, with a different fuel source , but won't draw from the tank. Has to be gravity fed, won't pull fuel that's under the carb.
The gas cap doesn't have a duck bill valve, doesn't even look to have a damn vent. Getting close to giving up.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 13, 2016 2:57:03 GMT -5
Still can't get this son of a buck to draw fuel. It will run all day, with a different fuel source , but won't draw from the tank. Has to be gravity fed, won't pull fuel that's under the carb. The gas cap doesn't have a duck bill valve, doesn't even look to have a damn vent. Getting close to giving up. Just leave the cap cracked open for now, so it will take the venting out of the question. Have you checked the pulse passages going to the carb? Does the carb have the hole for pulse passage? Are you getting a pulse from the passage? Carb could also be assembled incorrectly. If you post all the numbers from the carb, I may have a diagram for it, and could scan and send to you. On the gas cap its supposed to have a vent (unless you have wrong cap, theres even a way to test it, see here houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/5112/sxlao-gas-cap-function
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 13, 2016 9:18:05 GMT -5
The cap MAY have a vent, it might be under the clip that hooks the chain to the cap.
The pulse is actually making it to the carb. I have blown apart and reassembled that damn iod Tillotson over a dozen times.
Got a Dr. appointment this morning, so I will take another crack at it when I get home. I will eventually get this saw going, it's just been a trying experience.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 13, 2016 11:06:25 GMT -5
Found the duck bill, I popped the brass filter out of the cap, and there it was.
Is the little rubber valve supposed to be visible any where in the cap, or not? Dobibinsert the duck bill till the tip is on the outside of the wallninvthe cap??? The cap number is :69456 I think, it's hard for me to read those numbers well.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 13, 2016 11:18:32 GMT -5
Found the duck bill, I popped the brass filter out of the cap, and there it was. Is the little rubber valve supposed to be visible any where in the cap, No, it is on the inside of cap.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 13, 2016 13:56:35 GMT -5
The lips of the duckbill go in the hole in the cap followed by the bronze. The bronze can get plugged with crud, try to run saw without the bronze or duckbill in place. If you have a way to suck on the fuel line where it connects to the carb you should of course get fuel. The bronze can be cleaned sometimes by soaking in carb cleaner if it is plugged. A hand vacuum pump like used for bleeding brakes is useful for checking carb things.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 14, 2016 10:56:44 GMT -5
Cool.
I checked the brass filter, by putting it in theend of tthe hose on my leak down tester, took very very little pressure to blow through it, so I am guessing it's OK, the little valve thing looks to be new, guessing this engine was being problematic before I got it.
Going to pull the carb apart again, this time removing the welsh caps, followed by a siak in the ultrasonic parts cleaner ( for the carb, not me!) then ANOTHER rebuild. Bought another kit for it this morning.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 14, 2016 12:29:57 GMT -5
While you have it off, double check the pulse hole from the crankcase to the carb. Be sure the gaskets are aligned right and not swelled into the passage. When the carb end of the fuel line is free, be sure fuel can be sucked through it. Gas is bad for you so don't use your lips, eh?
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Post by Clasec on Apr 14, 2016 21:30:02 GMT -5
I had the same problem with an XL103. Saw looked great so I thought I'd get it running. Would not draw fuel. Rebuilt carb. no difference. Turned out to be the saw ingested a bolt or nut and knocked a small hole in the crankcase hence no pulse. Might be something to check if all else fails.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 15, 2016 9:59:00 GMT -5
GOT IT FIXED!!
I got it started yesterday. Finally. Thing is, I didn't do anything different or change anything, I tore it all down, checked what I could, and then just put it back together. Pulled three times, and voilà, it started.
This saw is a hell of a lot louder than my old XL 12, like painfully loud, ear splittingly loud. What can be done, without sacrificing a lot of performance. I understand that by restricting flow, it will hurt performance. I just don't know if I can actually use this saw as it is, even with ear plugs. Thinking about splitting the muffler, and packing with steel wool and some high heat Kevlar fibers, or heat glass.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 15, 2016 12:11:04 GMT -5
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 15, 2016 12:30:32 GMT -5
A twin cylinder saw......
SAWGASM!!
That's well worth the noise.
I am looking for a compact(ish) expansion pipe suitable for 54cc @ under 10k rpm. It's easier to quite an expansion chamber than lower the decibles of these muffs.
Still, This old saw, is the second best one I have ever owned. I have had Craftsman/ Poulan, Macs, Stihls, and Husquvarnas, none could hold a candle to these old Homeys. Just my opinion.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 16, 2016 10:50:57 GMT -5
I just ran a comp check, and I have to say, I am pleased. I did the check by pulling the starter twelve times, WOT each time, then I averaged the numbers, and ended up with an average of 172. Not sure if that's close to the original or intended compression, but it's high enough that much more would make it way too much to pull with my tendonitis, and bursitis . I haven't cut much with it yet, but it doesseem to be strong, and it pulls hard enough to satisfy my needs.
Was wondering what comp readings are normal for an XL 12? The highest reading I got was 177. I was thinking if hooking a drill to the flywheel anchor nut, and spinning it like that, to get a truer reading. What does everyone think??
BTW, my shoulder hurts like a b|π¢h. Glad it doesn't have to be pulled that fast or that many times to start.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 16, 2016 11:04:22 GMT -5
Wouldn't let me watch the video. Have to be a member, and I have read and heard a hell of a lot of real bad things about that site. I will try to find that vid somewhere else. Thank though.
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 16, 2016 12:41:20 GMT -5
Don't know about trouble from arboristsite, member for a couple years and nothing yet. Anyway, one of the guys in MN found another one just like that saw on CL in MI, in case you want one.
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Post by sawnami on Apr 16, 2016 15:35:20 GMT -5
A lot if us have migrated to OPE Power Equipment Forum.
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 16, 2016 18:57:35 GMT -5
Was wondering what comp readings are normal for an XL 12? The highest reading I got was 177. I was thinking if hooking a drill to the flywheel anchor nut, and spinning it like that, to get a truer reading. What does everyone think?? BTW, my shoulder hurts like a b|π¢h. Glad it doesn't have to be pulled that fast or that many times to start. From the service manual pressure should be between 130-155 psi engine hot. This is by pulling the rope.
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Post by 2stroked on Apr 17, 2016 9:12:50 GMT -5
Then maybe milling the jug wasn't such a good idea. I took the Sam amount from the piston top as I did the cylinder base, and skirt.
Still has about the same port timings, not too aggressive, and the power band is still around the same Rev range. I fomed the exhaust port roof just a little, and opened the transfers a bit at the base. I just finished polishing the intake tract from the reed down. Got rid of a few restrictions and hard edges, tthen polished it all (?) to a mirror finish. I took the butterfly and choke out of the carb, and polished the venturi too. Then I gasket matched all of it, from the carbvto the base gasket. I polished the uppermost parts of the crank case as well, around the transfers. All in all I am happy with the performance increase for the little work I did to it.
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