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Post by sweepleader on Mar 10, 2015 10:35:59 GMT -5
I know there is a discussion somewhere here about changing over from points in the older saws to electronic ignition specificly from the SXLAO but I cannot find the thread. Anyone know which thread discussed this issue or could tell me how to identify a saw from the UT or SN that would have electronic ignition in it? An IPL for the saw in question would do it but that is not easy if I should run across a suspect saw. I have several of each but no parts saw with electronic to rob, I will have to buy one I guess. The parts seem to be prohibitively expensive to purchase individually. Thanks, Dan
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Post by Brian VT on Mar 10, 2015 19:38:14 GMT -5
NOVA Module. Cheap and easy conversion.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 11, 2015 19:50:33 GMT -5
Thanks Brian, but I am nearly certain that the problem is the coil breaking down at high rpms/high voltage. The saw starts and runs fine at low speed but will not make power higher up. Hmm, that makes me think I better check the point gap, perhaps it has closed up. Thanks for the inspiration!
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Post by sawnami on Mar 11, 2015 20:30:20 GMT -5
Crank seals OK?
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 12, 2015 19:30:51 GMT -5
I haven't checked the crank seals. This saw does not have a lot of hours on it so who knows. It quit running right one day when I was running it pretty hard. It was a warm day and the saw was pretty hot. Not so hot that I think I burned the piston or cylinder, but hot enough to mess with old electrical stuff. Do you have a way to check the seals without replacing them? Thanks, Dan (I still have not checked the points, coil, or condenser, no time yet.)
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Post by sawnami on Mar 13, 2015 7:10:59 GMT -5
I buy rubber gasket material from the plumbing area of the hardware store and make block off gaskets for the intake and exhaust. I pressurize the crankcase through the sparkplug hole to about 10 psi. It's OK if it looses less than 2psi in 30 seconds. If more, I spray soapy water on the crankcase seals to make sure that they are what is leaking. If it has a separate impulse port, it has to be plugged before you pressurize it. I also use a Mityvac to see if it will hold around 10 in. of vacuum. An old fashion blood pressure cuff can be adapted to use to pressurize with.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 13, 2015 11:27:14 GMT -5
Well, that looks like the ticket. I have a Mityvac and most of the other stuff, guess I better get to work on it, eh? Thanks for the tip!
Still wondering if anyone knows which thread discussed this issue or could tell me how to identify a saw from the UT or SN that would have electronic ignition in it?
Dan
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Post by Supercharged86 on Dec 4, 2015 15:57:57 GMT -5
Hey Dan, How did you ever make out with the SXL? Did you ever find out about the ignition switch over? I know for the Super EZ's it was 79-80. Steve
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 4, 2015 17:27:16 GMT -5
Well, I have been lax getting this one fixed. I was not able to convince myself that I knew how to identify a pointless saw from the outside, I thought if I could I would be able to buy a complete saw and get all the parts at once. I did buy a module off eBay, there seems to be only one. I do not know that for sure. I also bought a coil bracket to fit the module as that part is different too. I was not able to find a different flywheel, the module, points and coil, are all listed on a couple of IPLs that I looked at with the same flywheel so I assumed they use the same one. I found the module and bracket before I tested for seal leaks so I have not done that yet. I have a couple other saws that run great and I really should not be using my pet anyway so there it sits. Oh, there are a couple other projects in the shop too messing things up. I am pretty sure I will post like mad when I do manage to solve this issue, thanks for asking. Dan
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 4, 2015 21:12:07 GMT -5
There are two electronic ignition coils used, one from Wico & one from Phelon. The dreaded blue module is the Wico and the black is the more reliable Phelon. The coil bracket is the same for both, but as Dan noted, it is very different from a points bracket. The flywheel is matched to the coil; a Phelon wheel will not properly trigger a Wico coil and vice-versa. I mixed one up years ago and the result was an engine that would run, but it ran like a small block Chevy that's advanced 50' out of time: SHIT! Any SXL or XL-12 produced after 1980 will have electronic ignition; the Phelon coil became more common in the very late 80's up through the end of the model run. 1980 is kinda the crap-shoot point; I'd have way more faith in a December 1980 model than a January 1980 model. The black Phelon coil is the preferred one to use, but if a blue coil has survived all these years, it can't be all bad. Also, the Stens reproduction of the blue coil seems to be more reliable.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Dec 5, 2015 7:57:49 GMT -5
.... I mixed one up years ago and the result was an engine that would run, but it ran like a small block Chevy that's advanced 50' out of time: SHIT! ..... Hey Leon, Oh, I thought that was NORMAL for a SBC, perhaps RETARDED 50^ would be better! LOL. Just having some good o'l Chevy vs. Ford fun with ya buddy. Although, except for the Mustang, I'm no longer in the Blue Oval camp. How is the ChevroletC-10 doing these days? Cheers buddy, Steve
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 5, 2015 8:44:46 GMT -5
Ha, even retarded a SBC is gonna cream your damned Blue Oval!!! The 65 is doing great other than a standard oil leak (EVERY Chevy has one of those) and needing some paint. Every spring I tell myself "this is the year to paint"...we'll see!
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Post by Supercharged86 on Dec 5, 2015 9:33:17 GMT -5
There are two electronic ignition coils used, one from Wico & one from Phelon. The dreaded blue module is the Wico and the black is the more reliable Phelon. The coil bracket is the same for both, but as Dan noted, it is very different from a points bracket. The flywheel is matched to the coil; a Phelon wheel will not properly trigger a Wico coil and vice-versa. I mixed one up years ago and the result was an engine that would run, but it ran like a small block Chevy that's advanced 50' out of time: SHIT! Any SXL or XL-12 produced after 1980 will have electronic ignition; the Phelon coil became more common in the very late 80's up through the end of the model run. 1980 is kinda the crap-shoot point; I'd have way more faith in a December 1980 model than a January 1980 model. The black Phelon coil is the preferred one to use, but if a blue coil has survived all these years, it can't be all bad. Also, the Stens reproduction of the blue coil seems to be more reliable. My 1993 SXL-AO has a Phelon ignition with the black coil. Leon, couldn't Dan just reuse the original points rotor, if that's all he's missing, with a solid state coil of the same manufacturer? I've done this with the Super EZ's. The only difference I've seen on those was the extra machining on the inside face to accommodate the points box; hence the different part number.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 5, 2015 13:37:12 GMT -5
There's a later rotor, part# 70639 with the wider spaced fins that will fire the Wico A-94235 points coil or the Wico A-94605 blue coil. The early 58809 Wico flywheel may or may not work...I can't say I've tried it on an electronic coil. But I know for certain that the early Phelon points flywheel does not interchange with the later Phelon electronic flywheel. I have attempted that and it doesn't end well.
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 6, 2015 21:26:22 GMT -5
Hmm, this is starting to give me a whole bunch of different stuff to sort out. I will have to inventory my stuff again to see just what I have laying around.
By the way, I have a '62 K10...
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 6, 2015 23:32:15 GMT -5
By the way, I have a '62 K10... Now that is a rare truck! Got any pics? Here's my 65 overloaded with Black Locust a few years ago. flic.kr/p/j8C6po
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 7, 2015 17:21:29 GMT -5
Nice truck, you must live where there is not much snow/salt, eh? A truck only lasts about 12-15 years here (Minnesota) without rust. I would dearly love to have a similar driver. The new truck in the picture (rust is mostly on the other side) is my driver, a 2000 Chev. The '62 has not been in the salt for about 25 years so the last paint job has held fairly well. You are right about it being rare, I have owned it for almost 40 years and have never seen another factory 4x4. It still has the original running gear but most everything else has been replaced. You must be a great guy, you like old Homelites and old Chevs!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 8, 2015 13:36:34 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm good at spending spare cash...old Chevy's & old Homelite's! Thankfully Oregon does not use salt on the roads, so the sheet metal does last a lot longer. A buddy of mine is still waiting to restore his 65 4X4...when he sees your truck, he's gonna crap! Great lookin' ride!
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Post by sweepleader on Dec 8, 2015 15:00:28 GMT -5
It looks really good in this shot but it has always been a working truck so there are lots of scratches and dings. It is dirty and abused but much loved.
Oregon, wow, this truck came from Eugene, at least that's where I bought it. I still have the 1976 Oregon plate it came to me with. It was a DNR truck, then a rental shop owner's, then mine.
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