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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 25, 2013 12:24:17 GMT -5
After hearing so many good things said about the 925, I picked one up from a local Craigslist seller. He knew nothing about the saw of course and had not run it. It had compression and was well used, but not any worse off than some of my other saws. There was spark and the saw runs good when mix is put down the carb, so a lot of the critical issues in my mind are OK. The starter was a little rough, so that was first. One of the pawl springs was broken, and the post had loosed up and gouged the back of the starter. No big damage and an easy fix.   There is more concern on the other side of the saw. There are only two of three screws in the plate that goes over the clutch. One of the remaining screws has been rubbing on the cover, as evidenced by the discoloration. The whole plate is off-center. The sidecover has a new, custom made cover on it where one of the screws looks like it backed out and cut a circle in the metal.   I'm looking for opinions on the clutch issue. Should I just realign the plate and put a new screw in, or are there other issues relating to this that are common with this saw? Of course the fuel line has rotted off inside the tank. Actually, it's not even in there anymore, so that may be why the saw was cast off. There's no heat in my garage; yesterday it was 30 in there, so cleaning off the gunk will take place when warmer weather comes. |
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Post by tribulation138 on Jan 25, 2013 19:12:28 GMT -5
the clutch plate is a backup incase the clutch comes loose on crankshaft. Technically you can run the saw with out it.
Here are your options.
-Find a matching screw and add loctite to all three screw to avoid backing out.
-Ditch the plate.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 26, 2013 16:22:32 GMT -5
With that style clutch, I'd find another screw and Loctite it in place like Tribulation suggested. I think those are 8-32 machine thread, so any good hardware store can sell one for less than $1. On those clutches, the plate also serves to hold everything together. Without it, the shoes can work their way sideways and fly off. It's not common, but I've had it happen to me and let me tell you, it's hard to find the pieces afterwards!
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Post by mcycle12 on Jan 28, 2013 10:31:42 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys. I will Loctite a new screw in as suggested. Parts are on the way and there are a few warm days in the forecast, so hopefully I'll be working on it soon!
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Post by my79gmc on Mar 12, 2013 7:29:56 GMT -5
Hello I am new to this site but I was given an old blue XL-921 last year by a friend whose grand pa had bought and was in a barn.Does anyone know if these were good saws.I have it running but think it needs a carb kit. thanks
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Post by tommyhnavix on Mar 12, 2013 15:38:38 GMT -5
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Post by my79gmc on Mar 13, 2013 7:52:35 GMT -5
Thanks very much for the information on the 921
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Post by mcycle12 on Mar 23, 2014 20:25:50 GMT -5
I finally got some time to get this 925 running. Not that it took that much effort; I didn't even have to clean the carb. I found it easier to cut off the belled ends of the metal fuel line elbow so the fuel lines slipped on with less effort.
This saw is a good running saw. The only issue is that it is not oiling. The automatic oiler is not working at all. The manual oiler only works near the bottom of the plunge and isn't delivering much oil. I know there are o-rings in the plunger. Are they a standard size, or Homelite specific?
Where should I start with the auto oiler?
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Post by mcycle12 on May 6, 2014 16:01:38 GMT -5
I had the 925 apart finally yesterday to try to figure out the no-oil situation.
All oil hoses/lines are clear and I can blow air through them. Filters are clear.
One of the black rubber oil delivery hoses (Part #64356) has a bad end. Can you use Tygon to replace it?
The bad hose was on the manual oiler. The auto oiler side looks ok.
The oil cap vent is clear. O-rings are on their way to replace the ones in the manual plunger. (Old ones seem OK)
I can see why the manual pump wasn't working right because of the hose, but auto-oiler doesn't have any obvious problems. Is there a high failure rate item in the pump? The pump will be the next thing for me to get into, but those parts look a little more expemsive.
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Post by mcycle12 on May 8, 2014 20:08:42 GMT -5
A new bar and chain are on their way, along with a new rim sprocket. Since I had to take the clutch off for that, I decided to check out the pump. Not good news, as the gear is shot. I believe the old pump part number A68265 crosses over to A02240, so one of them (and worm gear) is on order. Would running without oil cause this?  The "shield" that goes behind the pump was melted and otherwise pretty messed up. There was a lot of gunk and sawdust under the shield. Here's the crank end ready for the new shield/pump. All oil passageways are clear when I blow air through them.  The clutch came off easily after I made this shadetree clutch removal tool. It's just a piece of aluminum flat stock with holes drilled in it that line up with the treaded holes in the clutch.  Waiting for parts again. This is going to turn into my most expensive saw to date. I have a feeling it will be worth it. |
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Post by mcycle12 on Jun 22, 2014 15:21:02 GMT -5
One of my relatives had a wild cherry tree blow down in the Derecho we experienced here two years ago. I had promised to take the tree, but my current saws weren't big enough to saw the trunk. I was under the gun to get the 925 in shape to cut the downed tree. The oil pump and "shield" had been sitting in the garage for a while. The "new" service oil pump is now some type of composite material. So is the gear...the same one made of metal that had broken on the old pump. Oh well, we'll see how it works. Here are the parts laid out for comparison.  I got so involved in putting the saw back together that I didn't take any pictures of the process. The saw fired right up after sitting for months. The bar is a 28" NOS part from ebay. I couldn't beat the price and it came with the chain. I was impressed with how the saw handled the decent sized wood I ran it through. The fuel did boil (85 degree temp) but I didn't even notice a difference in the way the saw ran. I found out when I went to refuel. A stream of fuel shot out of the cap when I unscrewed it. Does this happen when it's cooler too?  |
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