creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 10, 2012 19:10:28 GMT -5
I have an old (red) Super EZ that suddenly won't start. I checked for spark and there appears to be none. I checked the Ignition module (blue) with my ohmmeter and found continuity between the ground wire and the terminal that the kill switch attaches to. I disconnected both the ground wire from the chassis and the kill switch wire from the module for this measurement. I believe this would indicate my ignition module is toast, correct? Where might a replacement be found?
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Post by tommyhnavix on Jun 11, 2012 9:58:26 GMT -5
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creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 11, 2012 17:36:51 GMT -5
Thanks for your response. Am I correct in assuming the continuity between the terminal and ground wire lead indicates the coil is shat? I can't see that that would be normal, but I've made incorrect assumptions before - just ask my wife! My Super EZAOs UT# is 10537, serial # 202170370. I believe the coil I need is part # 68716. The saw is so old, I hate to pour too much money into parts . . . maybe somebody has a good used one?
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Post by tommyhnavix on Jun 11, 2012 18:12:09 GMT -5
68716 coil. www.ebay.com/itm/homelite-68716-coil-core-/230799442618?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bcb802baWOW That is an older one. Still fixing it may be cheaper than replacing it. This is the wiring diagram from Homelite manual for point ignition. I think all the teriminals will show basic continuity but the resistance will be different between the primary and secondary winding. If you have a points system the points could be oxidzed or the condensor could be bad also and cause no spark. Tom
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creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 11, 2012 18:47:00 GMT -5
Appreciate the info. To demonstrate my ignorance, I jumped to conclusions and haven't even pulled the flywheel yet. I'll have a look at the points for sure before doing anything else.
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creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 13, 2012 15:36:10 GMT -5
I'm having great difficulty removing the flywheel and don't want to screw it up. I tried using a homemade puller similar to the rig I used on another saw in March (per MCS using the pawl screw holes and a centered bolt) but this one won't yet budge. I don't have any blaster at the moment but I've sprayed it with another penetrant and will let it sit several hours. Anyone have any tips for me?
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Post by tribulation138 on Jun 13, 2012 16:35:06 GMT -5
tap center of crank shaft with a center punch with flywheel nut screw on to protect threads. WHAP the crank shaft whith a hammer. turn flywheel every so often. I find that gently putting a screw driver between flywheel and body of saw and pry outwards. DOnt do it super hard though.
I plan on doing a video on this because countless people keep bringing this up and i have never had any problems.
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Post by tommyhnavix on Jun 13, 2012 17:44:14 GMT -5
Maybe an improvement to use a straight punch instead of a center punch on the crankshaft bolt Sometimes it's hard to get the nut back off if the center punch mushrooms the end. Tom
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creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 14, 2012 9:27:11 GMT -5
I've used a punch on the crankshaft and done as much tapping and whapping as I dare. I've pried against the backside of the flywheel too, although I can't get a very good angle. I put my "puller" plate back on and put pressure on the center bolt until the plate started to bend (and bend the screws in the pawl holes as well) but it hasn't budged. I'm afraid of damaging the flywheel, stripping the pawl hole taps or ruining the crankshaft bearings. Not sure what to try next . . . smoke and mirrors?
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Post by tribulation138 on Jun 14, 2012 19:17:30 GMT -5
keep trying it will come off.
PB blaster it and let it sit for a couple of hours. and you might need thicker plate material
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creel
Collector wannabe
Posts: 15
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Post by creel on Jun 14, 2012 19:43:53 GMT -5
I'll need to get some Blaster - can't seem to locate the can I had I already made another puller out of a piece 5/16 in stock but still have had no luck.
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Post by tommyhnavix on Jun 16, 2012 16:35:03 GMT -5
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Post by cblackky on Apr 8, 2014 4:01:38 GMT -5
;)so did you get it off if so what worked ////its on a tapers wd 40 down the key way slot puller on/// the right hammer and tap turn 180 tap it will come ///same as tie rod
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