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Post by MCS on Aug 13, 2009 16:56:51 GMT -5
If you don't have this stuff in your Homelite toolbox you may want to consider getting some ;D  As a test, I had an old XL-12 (they are all old) handle.  Step 1 Clean and degrease. I washed it in paint thinner and hit it with air. Step 2. The build-up  Step 3. Some filing.  I used a MAPP gas torch for heat but plain propane may work just as well. The directions say to wire brush it to remove oxidation which I did. Then I heated the base metal and kept testing to see when the rod would melt without using heat from the torch. Once it is there the rod melts rather quickly. It says to just rub the rod on the hot base metal. For me, it worked well. I have a cracked clutch cover I'm going to try next. The heat will run the paint but so what. This looks like a neat way to fix some of this broken aluminum  |
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Post by rharley95ci on Aug 13, 2009 17:23:11 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if they made a aluminum brazing rod. Now I know....... Thanks!!!! Going to get me some of that real soon. Dave
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Post by mikem on Aug 16, 2009 19:55:46 GMT -5
Craig ...Great find !! Question ? I think chainsawlady(Joyce) has a cylinder cover for my 4-20 that has the "ears" broken off, but the price is right($5). These ears are where the bolts go through to fasten the cylinder cover to the shroud. In your opinion, would these aluminum brazing rods be a possible fix to rebuild these ears ? I think it may be stretching the capability of the rods.
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Post by rharley95ci on Aug 16, 2009 21:17:25 GMT -5
Mike,
Don''t know about a total rebuild with the rods but if you could find some aluminum washers and cut a flat one one side. Then use rods to add washer to cover for your ears. Dave
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Post by mikem on Aug 17, 2009 11:17:50 GMT -5
Mike, Don''t know about a total rebuild with the rods but if you could find some aluminum washers and cut a flat one one side. Then use rods to add washer to cover for your ears. Dave Nice suggestion Dave. I guess the ears could be repaired if you had the broken piece, but that is rarely the case.  |
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Post by sugarcreeksaws on Aug 17, 2009 13:59:41 GMT -5
Hi Mike,
You can rebuild those ears....I have rebuilt an entire holding bracket for an old jigsaw with this alumi-rod. What you need to do is get a thick piece of steel that you can lay the cover on so that the area where the ears were is laying flat on the steel. Now, heat the entire area and flow the alumi-rod onto the cover edge and let it lay on the steel. You can build it up to whatever thickness you need. Once it cools, it will lift right off the steel....it will not adhere to the steel. Hope that helps!
Talk to you soon!
Joe
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Post by mikem on Aug 18, 2009 13:39:36 GMT -5
Hi Mike, You can rebuild those ears....I have rebuilt an entire holding bracket for an old jigsaw with this alumi-rod. What you need to do is get a thick piece of steel that you can lay the cover on so that the area where the ears were is laying flat on the steel. Now, heat the entire area and flow the alumi-rod onto the cover edge and let it lay on the steel. You can build it up to whatever thickness you need. Once it cools, it will lift right off the steel....it will not adhere to the steel. Hope that helps! Talk to you soon! Joe Awesome Joe Just the encouragement I was hoping to find. Would you braze it solid, then drill a bolt hole ? Now, if I can just find chainsawlady to see about the used cover......Joyce ?? Anybody home ? |
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Post by mikem on Aug 18, 2009 13:47:23 GMT -5
OldZip....I seem to remember you punched a hole in a fuel tank when you got in a hurry installing a bar & chain. The aluminum brazing rod tip from MCS may be your ticket to repair this saw without pulling the case. It goes without saying the tank needs to empty,clean and vented. You may have already repaired this by now.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Aug 19, 2009 5:41:19 GMT -5
Mike,
I seem to remember that OZ had another drive case. He was going to swap them. I don't know if he ever did.
CSW
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Post by mikem on Aug 19, 2009 13:20:43 GMT -5
Mike, I seem to remember that OZ had another drive case. He was going to swap them. I don't know if he ever did. CSW If OZ has that old busted case lying around spare....now he has a REALLY good reason to put a torch to it  |
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Aug 20, 2009 5:06:12 GMT -5
Yes, It would be a good practice piece.
Good for a step-by-step photo tutorial.
CSW
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Post by SkiPro on Aug 20, 2009 23:03:36 GMT -5
Speaking of holes in gas tanks... I recently had a Super EZ where someone used too long of a bolt on the bottom mount of the handle assembly and ended up punching a hole in the gas tank. What to do ... (didn't know about the aluminum rod at that time) I ended up drilling the hole out to 3/16" diameter and installed a 3/16" short pop rivet with some JB Weld (the chainsaw mechanics secret weapon) and ground down the top of the rivet so the handle bracket would clear (only about a 1/16" clearance). No leaks! I tried it first without the JB Weld and developed a tiny leak.
SkiPro
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Post by MCS on Aug 21, 2009 9:13:08 GMT -5
Speaking of holes in gas tanks... I recently had a Super EZ where someone used too long of a bolt on the bottom mount of the handle assembly and ended up punching a hole in the gas tank. What to do ... (didn't know about the aluminum rod at that time) I ended up drilling the hole out to 3/16" diameter and installed a 3/16" short pop rivet with some JB Weld (the chainsaw mechanics secret weapon) and ground down the top of the rivet so the handle bracket would clear (only about a 1/16" clearance). No leaks! I tried it first without the JB Weld and developed a tiny leak. SkiPro The problem with using pop rivets to repair leaks it the rivet is hollow and there is a left over stub in this hole which creates a potential place for a leak. What did you do for screw threads once you drilled out the hole for the pop rivet  |
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Post by SkiPro on Aug 25, 2009 21:20:48 GMT -5
As I stated I tried this with just a pop rivet and it did develop a small leak. Thus the JB Weld. I put the JB weld around the hole before I inserted the pop rivet. I then filled the center cavity of the rivet with JB Weld that sealed the potential leak. |
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