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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 9, 2008 13:01:18 GMT -5
Hi. I am new to this but here goes. I have a Timberman 18" M/N UT10946A that won't oil. I have removed the bar and cleaned all that down to the oil port. I have drained, cleaned and refilled the resevoir. Still no oil. The saw has cut less than a cord of wood. What do I do next? Well it looks like it has been over a week and no one knows how to fix my saw. Anybody need an almost new Timberman and an old XL12 for parts?
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 17, 2008 10:34:05 GMT -5
dwmcg2000, I too am relatively new to the forum. Did you check the oil pump drive? It's behind the cluch. A lot of newer cheaper saws use a plastic drive gear, which tends to get stripped. I have a parts Timberman that I may or may not fix. I'll check the oiler , if it works maybe I'll trade you my timberman for the xl12. Mine has 120psi compression, needs the top cover and the carb and air filter. If you decide not to fix the timberman I might be intrested in it. Let me know. Jim
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 24, 2008 7:31:18 GMT -5
Any luck on the Timberman?
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 24, 2008 16:38:39 GMT -5
Looked at it yesterday. pulled the clutch but didn't readily see how to get past that. looks like pull the case off. anyway ran out of time. In the main time I will see if I can come up with some disassembly instructions.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 24, 2008 17:42:39 GMT -5
I'll look at mine tomorrow and get back to you.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 25, 2008 21:20:45 GMT -5
I pulled the cluch off and found that the oil pump is between the engine and the housing,PITA to get at. I'll look at an IPL of the saw and see what I can figure out. This begs the question: If the oil pump is bad, and also a PITA to get at, is it worth fixing?
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Post by lawnmowertech37 on Feb 26, 2008 23:07:06 GMT -5
did you all figure out the problem yet ?
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 27, 2008 8:23:57 GMT -5
Appears the problem is internal in the oil pump. Still looking for parts breakdown or service manual.
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Post by RBW on Feb 27, 2008 12:57:39 GMT -5
Can I ask what you paid for the saw? If you need a shop to repair it its probably going to cost as much to fix it as to buy a new saw.....unfortunatly.
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 27, 2008 15:51:06 GMT -5
You are right. It is an inexpensive saw. I have been fixing things all my life but usually can get some kind of repair instructions to help. If I can't fix it myself it will go to the bone yard or to chainsawwhisperer (if he wants it) and I will own another saw.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 27, 2008 17:41:11 GMT -5
We all seem to be on the same page, that it's not worth disassembling the whole saw to replace the oil pump. Maybe putting the effort into getting the xl12 back into service is a better option. It is more powerful, and just about bullet proof. Althought it does not have a chain brake, so there is a safety concern. As far as your timberman is concerened, I would be intrested in it. Or you can have mine for the cost of shipping, if your intent on fixing it. I will check the oil pump to see if it does in fact work. Let me know. Jim
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 29, 2008 10:19:39 GMT -5
The problem with the XL12 is it needs a muffler, bar, chain, sprocket and is slow to start (probably compression). The case leaks etc. It looks like I will get rid of everything and start over. Does anyone sell a saw you can get a service manual for?
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Post by RBW on Feb 29, 2008 15:09:58 GMT -5
You would probably do good with an SEZ-ao. Their light, powerfull and will cut the Timberman in half! Its not hard to find a good one, but it is difficult to find a good one for cheap.
An Ebay spacial would usually run you around $100, but if its a solid good runner it will outlast anything in its size range you could purchase new.
Let me know if you wish to donate the xl-12 to a good cause. ;D
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 29, 2008 16:48:20 GMT -5
Assuming that the b/c are ok from the timberman, and the bar mount is the same. you could
get a .325 sprocket for the xl12.
As for the Muffler search ebay.
On the low compression issue, what is the reading? Was the saw hot or cold, it matters? Did
you pull it over 2-3 times, or until the gage stopped climing?
I've seen the cylinder bolts loosen and back themselves out on that saw, that also would
matter.
I guess that you have a desion to make : repair a newer saw thats not worth it, or repair a
20-30 year old saw that will still be 20-30 years old when repaired.
Bottom line, What's your time worth? How much are you willing to spend? How attached are
you to either saw?
FYI I fix saws that are not worth it and 20-30-40-50 year old ones all the time, but that's my
hobby. Keep us posted. Jim I wrote this and posted it in the wrong thread, so I had to copy it and delete the other one. I'm such a tool.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Feb 29, 2008 16:53:42 GMT -5
I see that I now have karma!!!!
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Feb 29, 2008 20:50:45 GMT -5
Possibly I should have mentioned before. I have been in heavy equipment most of my life. I am very familiar with engines, don't partiularly care for the mini's such as chainsaws. I know about wet and dry compression checks. The engine on the XL is worn out. At the present my inclination is to let chainsawwhisperer have the whole lot. Does anyone know of a saw you can get a service manual for? I really appreciate the conversation and help. It has been the bright spot of this of this thing. Thank you.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Mar 1, 2008 9:06:46 GMT -5
Ok everyone, lets shift the focus of this. and come up with some saw ideas!
1st question... new or used. 2nd question...How much do you want to spend? 3rd question...
How big is the wood your cutting?
Should this be a whole new thread? I think maybe. Input please.
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Mar 1, 2008 10:35:40 GMT -5
I use a saw for firewood, maintenance etc. Mostly light duty. All the time I was using the 16"Xl I wished it was a little longer so I bought an 18". I have two used saws. Unless I know the saw I would not buy used. This is not for professional use but I want it to run when I am ready to use it. Price? Not over $400.00
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Post by RBW on Mar 1, 2008 13:48:41 GMT -5
I see that I now have karma!!!! Of course you do, you jumped right in and started helping out, I wish I had ten members like you! Well, I do have 10 members like you, they just dont show up all the time. DW, I have to admit that Im biased twords the older saws, but for under $400 your most likely going to be in the Homeowner class of saw. Yeah it will be lighter than a good used saw, but it wont be as durable nor will it last as long. Yes, you read that right, a modern Homeowner saw will last a couple hunderd to a thousand hours, I have saws that have seen years of service in the profession which were only traded in for a lighter weight, tax break at the end of the year. The older saws are heavier cause their built better. Think modern diesel PU truck VS a Yugo. I cant recommend one modern brand over another, but I have liked the husky's that I have seen. .
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Post by dwmcg2000 on Mar 1, 2008 14:10:52 GMT -5
Well seeing as I am 64 and at the most I will cut is 2 cord a year pluus a little trimming what do you then recommend? Most of what I will cut is oak.
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