Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 18, 2024 19:22:58 GMT -5
Hello Everyone, I finally have one of my saws running and idling, and it’s time to track down a few small air leaks to be able to tune it well. I found a Timken 340849 crossed referenced from a SKF 6119, from a Napa store here in town, but I can’t seem to locate a double lip seal for the clutch side. The Skf part number 6130 and the Dichtomatik 0609318TC specify single lip? Which name brand aftermarket is everyone having good luck with, or am I just overthinking this? thanks, Greg
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Post by xl130 on Mar 18, 2024 21:53:35 GMT -5
Skf 6119 and Dichtomatik 0609318TC should both be double lip if I recall correctly.
I’ve used both and had no issues.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 18, 2024 22:08:17 GMT -5
Thanks XL130. I thought that the Dichtomatik was single on the spec sheet. Greg
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Post by kevinm1980 on Mar 20, 2024 8:18:39 GMT -5
I found a Chinese metric equivalent that works, and they are only 1.10 canadian each, which compared to what the skf 6119s are going for here is a hell of a good deal
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 20, 2024 17:52:00 GMT -5
Hello Kevin, Care to share part number and supplier? Would like to have a look and compare to the SKF. Thanks Greg
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 20, 2024 23:09:08 GMT -5
I had some time this afternoon to work on the saw. I decided instead of waiting a weak for a double lip seal, I would try the SKF 6130 single lip. I was able to tap it onto the crankshaft and over the step up no problem. Took awhile to find the right tool to recesses the seal, for the oil pump to fit over, but got it in there. The only thing I’m looking at and questioning, is there isn’t very much clearance between the seal metal seal edge and the crankshaft. Shaft spins freely with no contact, so should be fine. Was going to post a picture but don’t see that option. Greg.
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Post by xl130 on Mar 21, 2024 22:01:51 GMT -5
I’ve never used a seal that didn’t have a garter spring, I think some of the very old Homelites used seals with no spring though. Let us know how it works out.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 26, 2024 10:40:08 GMT -5
Air leak issues seem to have been resolved, found an additional leak coming from a top mounting hole for the condensor, factory casting defect? Motoseal to the rescue. Saw seems to tune well with lots of power. Have not ran it through any wood yet. Did notice a fuel boiling issue. Saw was thoroughly cleaned when I received it ,including cleaning out all the hard termite castings in the cylinder fins, saw was degreased and wiped down. Temperature at the exhaust was 320 degrees after being ran? Sounds like a common issue with these high compression older saws? Greg
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Post by footstep on Mar 27, 2024 9:49:34 GMT -5
Check the duckbill in the fuel cap, it may be blocked up not allowing air to pass through. If you think your temps are to high, try to richen the hi speed needle, I adjust it till it smokes a little, then lean it out slightly till it sounds good, Leon onlyhomelites has a great video of tuning a saw.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 27, 2024 12:27:04 GMT -5
Yes, that duckbill is very important, took care of that with a thorough cleaning along with a fresh gasket. Leon’s videos are very valuable for trouble shooting and learning from. I am not really sure if that temperature is too hot for this engine or not. I’ve read on here that 350 degrees is cool down time, but then again, where exactly is the temperature suppose to be taken from? As far as the boiling fuel, maybe just normal on these saws? Don’t know yet for sure. Greg
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Post by undee70ss on Mar 27, 2024 13:08:27 GMT -5
Yes, that duckbill is very important, took care of that with a thorough cleaning along with a fresh gasket. Leon’s videos are very valuable for trouble shooting and learning from. I am not really sure if that temperature is too hot for this engine or not. I’ve read on here that 350 degrees is cool down time, but then again, where exactly is the temperature suppose to be taken from? As far as the boiling fuel, maybe just normal on these saws? Don’t know yet for sure. Greg Boiling fuel could be from using winter fuel in warmer temperatures.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 27, 2024 13:48:03 GMT -5
It’s between 45 to 60 degree temps here in Western Wa, this time of year. Only Ethanol free fuels in 2 and 4 stroke power equipment. Hard to find and expensive here. Luckily, I have a Marina fuel dock close by. 40:1 Echo 2 stroke mix, ignited with a Champion RJ8C spark plug. Freshly built carburator with a clean air filter. Thanks for the response. Greg.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 27, 2024 14:15:10 GMT -5
I purchased this saw for parts only, and by the looks of it when received, that was all it was worth. I pulled the muffler cover to have a peak at the piston, and was surprised how good it looked. Poked at the rings with a tool, and they were still loose on the piston. I unhooked the fuel hose from the carburator, put a few drops of 2 stroke in the cylinder, and screwed in my compression tester. 190 psi on my tester that tests a little high, and 180 on the tester that tests a little low. At that point, I had a fun little project to work on. I went through all the systems cleaning, adjusting and testing, and this saw fired right up. Just have these last few issues to track down. Greg
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 27, 2024 23:54:44 GMT -5
The "gap" is clean ? Any build up can transfer heat from the crankcase to the fuel tank.
Try a lower heat range spark plug. Non resister CJ6.
Temp on the muffler will be higher than at the cylinder fins.
An actual Type:50074 XL-75 ? Pics please ! Thanks
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Mar 28, 2024 9:55:06 GMT -5
Thanks, I will try that cooler plug. I have the gap as clean as possible without disassembing the rubber spacer. Engine degreaser, water hose and compressed air. This saw came without the factory tag, so not sure of the Type number. Readable XL75 on the flywheel and clutch covers, black gas cap, Tillotson HS125A carburator. According to Leon’s part drawings the carb is called out for the Walbro SDC-31? The XL76 carbs call out for the HS125B?. Any other characteristics or part numbers that would set it apart from its younger brother XL76? As for as pictures, I haven’t figured that out yet. Thanks again, Greg.
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Grego
Collector wannabe
Posts: 19
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Post by Grego on Apr 3, 2024 0:38:25 GMT -5
Took the XL75 out into the Cascade Mt. foothills this afternoon to test the saw, and cut a truck load of firewood. With a fresh new CJ6 spark plug and a new muffler housing from Leon’s website, the saw cut very nicely. I forgot to grab my infrared thermometer, but did not notice any overheating issues or boiling fuel at fill ups, and the saw fired right back up after touching up the chain with the file. Thanks to all that responded to my post! Greg.
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