|
|
Post by mineralman2 on Dec 17, 2023 11:10:14 GMT -5
Happy Sunday, folks! I'm working on my grandfather's XL2 (pics attached). She runs well after a carb rebuild. A cold compression test yields 150 psi, which in my mind is pretty good for the amount of use this saw has seen! The clutch does not want to engage the sprocket and drive the chain. I can rev the saw to full throttle and the chain often won't engage until after a few seconds, if at all. As you can see from the photos, the sprocket is worn considerably and I believe this to be the main culprit. Just to be certain, I removed the clutch assembly and gave the parts a good cleaning with brake parts cleaner to remove any greasy residue, and it only proved marginally effective. There was a little grease on the inside of the drum and on the clutch itself, which of course isn't ideal. The rest of the clutch did not look bad at all considering its age, but if I can find a good deal on the whole assembly I may as well splurge! I'll be hunting down a replacement sprocket in the coming days. The chain is an Oregon 25 on a 12" bar, i.e. 1/4 mini pitch and 050 gauge.     |
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Dec 18, 2023 2:08:48 GMT -5
The clutch drum is easy to find and very reasonably priced. But you may also need a new clutch.
|
|
|
|
Post by blythkd on Dec 18, 2023 6:43:24 GMT -5
Seems odd that the clutch is slipping so badly that it doesn't even want to turn the chain. Assuming it's an S-clutch. Keep us posted on what you find.
|
|
|
|
Post by mineralman2 on Dec 18, 2023 8:42:01 GMT -5
Yes it is the S-clutch
|
|
|
|
Post by blythkd on Dec 18, 2023 12:36:37 GMT -5
The S-clutch is typically ok until an ear breaks off
|
|
|
|
Post by mineralman2 on Dec 18, 2023 14:00:01 GMT -5
That's what I would think, too. In any event, I found a new sprocket drum on eBay for $10, and I also found another seller with a new clutch for $12. Both are OEM NOS. I'm super comfortable with working on the XL2 and Super 2 types. It's a breeze taking the engine out of the cover now that I've done it a few times! In the interest of doing science I may replace just the clutch drum first and see if that does the trick. If not, I'll have the new S-clutch ready and waiting for installation :-D
Either way, I'll report back to you folks with whatever I find. No matter how we slice it, the sprocket is pretty beat up so I'll sleep a little better at night knowing I have a new drum & bearing on there!
|
|
|
|
Post by blythkd on Dec 18, 2023 21:47:12 GMT -5
It's a little tough to tell from the picture, but does it look like it's been hot behind the clutch? Looks a little like some paint has been cooked and maybe even metal turned colors? Again, not sure from the pics though. I wonder if the clutch and sprocket had been so hot from slipping that it affected the clutch's grip on the drum?
|
|
|
|
Post by mineralman2 on Dec 30, 2023 16:05:15 GMT -5
I replaced both the sprocket drum and the S-clutch itself. The drum came with a new bearing. It turns out both were to blame. I initially replaced just the drum, which helped regain a little traction but still not enough to cut wood. The new clutch sealed the deal, now she cuts like a dream (after a little carburetor work as described below)
Sometimes working on these saws is like playing whack-a-mole. I got rid of one problem and two more popped up!
The carburetor was flooding with every pull of the starter cord. I took it off and pressure tested it and it wouldn't hold past 4 psi. Sure enough, there was some garbage on the needle seat which prevented the needle from sealing properly. I cleaned it out, pressure tested it again, and it got to 8 psi before it let go. I took Leon's advice and gently stretched the spring under the metering lever just a hair, and now she holds pressure. I put the saw back together and had it running reliably for 20 minutes before she up and quit on me again! This time I could tell it was an electrical problem.
The spark plug wire is shorting out against the engine/muffler/case. The rubber insulation is all cracked along the length of the wire, and it's been pinched between the cylinder and the metal case for so long that it cut through the insulation completely and exposed the bare metal wire, which is bad. The coil and magnets still work fine (since they produce one heck of a spark) but the wire seems to be the issue. I'm going to try installing just a new wire and sparky boot, assuming I can get a good bond between the wire and the coil.
I'll keep you updated.
|
|
