EZ Automatic HDC Carb problems?

[luv2hit63]

1st time posting. I own a 1983 Super XL (purchased new in 1983) and a EZ automatic. The Ez automatic will start and run for a few seconds then just acts like it runs out of gas, Even after warming up you have to choke just to get started. If you pull choke it starts fine. Only will run 10=20 seconds then dies out. I ahve adjusted both high and low in addtion the idle. It has the original HDC carb ( My dad has own this saw since 1977). I took carb apart and did not see any obvious problems. 

Could it be the gasket between carb and carb mount? I have watched videos about after market carb kits being suspect. Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations on a relaible rebuild kit.

Thanks is advance.

[edju1958]

Welcome to HoH! A couple of things come to mind,try changing the fuel filter if you haven't done so already.The other thing is try loosening the fuel cap,the tank may not be venting properly.If the saw runs with the cap loose,then you'll need to replace the duck bill which is under the sintered bronze breather fitting in the fuel cap.

[luv2hit63]

Thank you MSB. I appreciate you responding. I will try your recomendations in the next couple of days. Hope your right:)

[okie]

What you mention about having to choke a EZ is normal even when you get it back to normal.

Most generally when cold you have to set the comp release to on, then full choke until it pops, then 1/2 choke for start and then let it warm up on 1/2 choke. If it dies when turning off 1/2 choke and the engine is still cold you have to repeat the full choke routine. (it's just the nature of the little beast.
When hot set to full choke, pull one time, then go to 1/2 choke for a start then off for run. You can usually take it off 1/2 choke sooner when the engine is hot or warm. (they like a choke and very rarely do they flood and most generally always have to do at least one full choke even when hot.
If the throttle lock fast idle adjustment screw is set really low some EZ's are harder to start cold and hot. (I'm referring to the fast idle throttle lock screw that is located in the front of the handle.

You need to check the in tank fuel filter, the gas line, the little fine screen in the HDC. If that does not do it, get a kit for the HDC. I suspect the pump side of the HDC. this is the side that has the little flapper valves, but with a carb that old it could be
both the pump and the diaphragm side. Keep a heads up on the kit, sometimes the new kit has a needle valve that is little bit different size than the existing needle and require the metering lever to require a slight re-tweaking of it's height.
You can go over the the Walbro site and download service info for that carb. Pay close attention to the sandwiching of the gaskets layout.

Them EZ's are built for the long haul, really good little saws and worth the effort to get it correct.
Usually what does them in is long term storage without starting the engine and use/storage of ethanol fuel.
I've got some good running EZ's that are over 40 years old and used in wood lot for trimming every year. One 47year old EZ only required one carb kit and few replacement chains, still has same bar. Very reliable little saws and powerful for their size.

[luv2hit63]

Jun 6, 2023 19:10:41 GMT -5 okie said:

What you mention about having to choke a EZ is normal even when you get it back to normal.

Most generally when cold you have to set the comp release to on, then full choke until it pops, then 1/2 choke for start and then let it warm up on 1/2 choke. If it dies when turning off 1/2 choke and the engine is still cold you have to repeat the full choke routine. (it's just the nature of the little beast.
When hot set to full choke, pull one time, then go to 1/2 choke for a start then off for run. You can usually take it off 1/2 choke sooner when the engine is hot or warm. (they like a choke and very rarely do they flood and most generally always have to do at least one full choke even when hot.
If the throttle lock fast idle adjustment screw is set really low some EZ's are harder to start cold and hot. (I'm referring to the fast idle throttle lock screw that is located in the front of the handle.

You need to check the in tank fuel filter, the gas line, the little fine screen in the HDC. If that does not do it, get a kit for the HDC. I suspect the pump side of the HDC. this is the side that has the little flapper valves, but with a carb that old it could be
both the pump and the diaphragm side. Keep a heads up on the kit, sometimes the new kit has a needle valve that is little bit different size than the existing needle and require the metering lever to require a slight re-tweaking of it's height.
You can go over the the Walbro site and download service info for that carb. Pay close attention to the sandwiching of the gaskets layout.

Them EZ's are built for the long haul, really good little saws and worth the effort to get it correct.
Usually what does them in is long term storage without starting the engine and use/storage of ethanol fuel.
I've got some good running EZ's that are over 40 years old and used in wood lot for trimming every year. One 47year old EZ only required one carb kit and few replacement chains, still has same bar. Very reliable little saws and powerful for their size.

[luv2hit63]

Hello okie,

Thanks for all the information. You mentioned the small screen in the carb, it did have a little dirt but after cleaning, did not make a difference. The saw starts when choked, and will run as long as I keep the trigger wide open. As soon as I release the trigger it dies. I am going to order a rebuild kit along with a new filter. And yes agree with you about the EZ line. I am not going to give up even If I need to purchase a new carb. This saw was my dads. He passed away in 2015. He and I cut alot of firewood together with this saw and a SuperXL we purchased in 1983.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge about Homelite saws. A apreciate it!

[okie]

Get back to us if the kit don't get you a idle.
Finding a NEW carb for them might be like looking for hen's teeth.

You might check few you tube videos about re-installing a HDC into the EZ.
It's a learning experience the first time. I can do it without taking the handle apart, but for a newbie taking the handle apart is the method recommended. (for the throttle linkage)

[piglosi]

The Walbro site had some good info on these carbs. I make sure I probe those tiny holes in the bore near butterfly with a bread tie sized wire. I have found crud in all of mine

[okie]

Jul 2, 2023 10:22:55 GMT -5 piglosi said:

The Walbro site had some good info on these carbs. I make sure I probe those tiny holes in the bore near butterfly with a bread tie sized wire. I have found crud in all of mine

I have a long needle tip that fits onto my air nozzle and can get it close to those transistion passages that you mention in the carb throat by the throttle plate and after probing/rodding with the tag wire I give them a shot of air.

Really have to be careful and not break off a tag wire in any of those holes or you will be SOL permanently.