350 starts and stops

[Deleted]

  Seller is a young man, maybe 20 years old.  He said it runs for awhile and after shutting it off it won't start for awhile.  This saw has been available for 3 weeks and he only wants $40 because nobody wants it.  I'm tempted to just fix it for him if he wants to keep it.  My question is, what should I look for first for a possible quick fix for this kid?  If it's simple I'll just help him fix it, if it requires a tear down I'll probably keep it.  Looks to be a nice saw in good condition, maybe just dirty and filled with oil and saw dust. 

 

[ronaldt]

Could be as simple as a spark plug?

[Deleted]

Thanks ronadlt. I should mention the only pump gas available in the area is ethanol.

[ibmike]

Maybe try premix gas & oil, thats all I use in my 2 cycle equipment

[undee70ss]

Probably needs a boot too.

[Deleted]

Mar 28, 2023 7:22:56 GMT -5 ronaldt said:

Could be as simple as a spark plug?

You were right about that.  The saw had a champion eco plug, I threw that in the garbage.  Saw also has no air filter, boot is good.  Carb is way too lean on both high and low.  I sprayed fogging oil in the cylinder because it was hard to pull, now it moves freely.  I flooded it by pulling the cord to move the cylinder.  I pulled a bunch of times, now it's getting some fresh air and I'll try to start it later.  The young man decided he didn't want it.  He has two new Stihls and would prefer to use those.  I bought it for $40. 

[Deleted]

Saw is done. The issue was the metering diaphragm was switched with the gasket, so the metering diaphragm was beneath the gasket, causing it to flood. I was looking down the carb when trying to start and it was squirting a solid stream of fuel. Also, the pulse line at the connection to the carb was very loose, so I cut the end and jammed it on there, the line had a metal ring inside. It is missing a flange and gasket where the carb mounts to the saw, so the carb is in direct contact with the boot for the seal. I'm not sure the flange and gasket are necessary, the seal seems tight to me. That was fun. I didn't have to put any parts or money into it.

[blythkd]

Was the top flange of the boot round or was it shaped like a gasket. The round flange style needs the flat metal plate and a gasket on top. The style with the top flange shaped like a gasket takes care of itself without any other pieces between it and the carb.

The 350's used the old style boot with the top flange shaped like a gasket but I would have figured those were all bad years ago. The 70246 changeover kit included parts to update to the round flanged boot, metal plate and gasket. That was the only way we fixed failed boots for years.

Although I believe someone may have started supplying the old style boot again at some point but not 100% sure.

That's a little scary that it was hard to crank until you oiled the bore. Hope the piston and bore are ok.

I'd give $40 for it regardless.

[Deleted]

I was planning on keeping this saw for parts for my 350. It's cool that it works. I'm not sure what type of boot it is. I'll take pictures tomorrow. I'll take pictures of my other 350 because it has the metal plate and gasket. I should mention that I think it has smaller bar studs.  The bar it came with is a hard nose and it has some numbers stamped on it and also has WIZ stamped on it. The bar is very narrow at the base, I'll take pictures of that too.

[Deleted]

The first two pictures are my good saw, the gasket is stuck on the carb, no picture.  I'm using my laptop to add pictures, I can only insert two in one post, that's why I have to create multiple posts. 

[Deleted]

The bar is stamped ZIP, not WIZ.

Attachments:

[Deleted]

This is the saw I bought yesterday.  It appears to be the round boot like my other saw. 

[blythkd]

Somebody updated that saw to the later boot design but left the old style carb adapter. See the depressed area in the top of the carb adapter flange? That's what the top flange of the original rubber looked like. It fit right in that depressed area.

It "might" seal up but the parts really aren't compatible.

Edit:  Also should have mentioned, that type rubber boot is supposed to have the thin metal flange installed between boot and carb too.  The metal part is meant to keep the top flange of the boot expanded to ensure a good seal. 

[Deleted]

Thanks for the information. Does anyone have some history lessons about the bar?

[onlyhomelites]

The bar is the early style narrow tail that could be found on the XL-101 to XL-130 saws. They were available in sprocket nose and hard tip like yours.