rby
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by rby on Aug 15, 2022 0:56:37 GMT -5
Hi all, I have this 360 Automatic I'd like to restart :  The id plate is missing and I can't determine the type:  The carb is a Walbro with the info "4 21 - 146 GASS CITY. MICH. U.S.A." It's an old one, in the family for a while, and I'd like to be sure of the type if I need to order replacement part. Thanks for your help, Rémi |
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Post by blythkd on Aug 15, 2022 7:04:52 GMT -5
What parts are you looking for? That appears to be an older 360, the "prior to lot #C-320" style. When looking up parts that's typically about all you need to know. That lot break at C-320 brought about a few changes in the cylinder, rear shield, muffler, choke linkage and maybe another small item or two that I'm not coming up with right now. Other than that, parts are mostly the same throughout the years. If you need a carb kit we just go by the identification on the carb itself. Diaphragm and gasket kits are the same for all Walbro HDC carbs.
Hope this helps.
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rby
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by rby on Aug 16, 2022 1:19:52 GMT -5
Thanks for your reply, I'm a newbie on old chainsaw and where I'm confused is how to use that lot number: prior to #C-320... It doesn't appear on IPL or parts web sites... For the carb, it's the same, no mention of "HDC" type on the carb... Maybe I need to read more to become more familiar to that! By the way, I downloaded the IPL for the 360, Part 17080 revision 3 and, for the carb, it says it is a Walbro HDC-39A... I guess the Chainsaw is a "SL" model, this mention was almost erased on the carter. I don't know what parts I'd need, I just cleaned and tried to run it. Where I am: - there is a lot of compression... it was very hard to pull the starter, I guessed the engine was blocked! After cleaning its always hard but less and impossible with one hand, but the engine turns well and the sound is well.
- the carb is not alimented. The hose is dry maybe a vacuum issue? I cleaned the tank, the filter and the hose?... I tested the carb and it keeps the pressure but I made some issues on the manifold and a paper gasket below the carb...
- I don't know if the spark is OK or not and how to check the ignition. The coil seems OK, I got some fire, putting gaz directly in the carb chamber, during 2-3 rotations. I need to find a new spark (Champion CJ6).
I'll post some other threads I guess! Attachments:
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Post by blythkd on Aug 16, 2022 11:46:31 GMT -5
The ignition on 360's rarely give any trouble.
First thing to check on a 360 is the rubber connecting boot directly under the carb. If the saw has not had a new one installed recently, and most haven't, it's likely either got a hole in it or will have a hole in it very soon. The saw has to be split to install it. With the carb removed, you can usually look down the throat and see a tear in the rubber.
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Post by blythkd on Aug 16, 2022 11:57:44 GMT -5
Does yours have a chain brake? Can't tell if it's all there from the pictures. I believe all SL models have chain brakes.
If your serial number is all numeric and doesn't have a letter in it, then it was definitely built prior to Lot #C-320. Do you have the ID tag? Looks like it came off. It appears to be an earlier model, pre C-320.
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rby
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by rby on Aug 19, 2022 0:06:27 GMT -5
Does yours have a chain brake? Can't tell if it's all there from the pictures. I believe all SL models have chain brakes. If your serial number is all numeric and doesn't have a letter in it, then it was definitely built prior to Lot #C-320. Do you have the ID tag? Looks like it came off. It appears to be an earlier model, pre C-320. Yes, the saw have a chain brake, it isn't on the pictures. And no, the ID tag is missing... |
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rby
Groundie
Posts: 4
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Post by rby on Aug 19, 2022 0:24:23 GMT -5
The ignition on 360's rarely give any trouble. First thing to check on a 360 is the rubber connecting boot directly under the carb. If the saw has not had a new one installed recently, and most haven't, it's likely either got a hole in it or will have a hole in it very soon. The saw has to be split to install it. With the carb removed, you can usually look down the throat and see a tear in the rubber. When I dismantled the rubber connecting boot, I made an issue on the upper lip. The rubber was very "rigid" and literally glued to the connector. Yes, I think I need a new one, a gasket kit and a new spark too. I'll check some local dealers. The parts seems to be available on Internet, but shipping to France is very expensive... After all, the main issue was I dismantled the saw first and after I watched the Leon's videos... I should have done the opposite!  Thanks blythkd to spend time on my case. |
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Post by blythkd on Aug 19, 2022 6:02:20 GMT -5
Yes if the rubber connector boot is rigid, you definitely need a new one. It should be soft and pliable so it can readily flex between the engine halves as they move during normal saw operation. It would probably be a good time for new rubber engine mounts too. 70623 is the number for normal mounts and 70622 is the part number for the firm (harder) mounts which is what I always like to use.
When reinstalling the ignition transformer over the spark plug, be very careful starting and snugging the 2 screws that hold it on. You can no longer buy the plastic piece behind it that the screws thread into and good used ones are becoming more scarce everyday.
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