150 Condensor Question

[bamaboilermaker]

I was at an estate sale this weekend and found a 150.  Didn't really need it, but as i did not have one in collection...........
it is a low hour saw from October 1981, complete with original H chain that has been sharpened too many times.  Piston and cylinder are perfect and has good compression.
When i checked for spark, it had none.  I expected to see a blue coil, but was surprised to see phelon coil and points in the saw (i thought that Homelite switched from points about 1978)

Last night i checked the points and they looked incredibly good for a 40 year old saw, so i suspect that the condensor went bad.

As this is my first 150 i do not have a condensor (69543) for this saw, however i have several XL12/SXLA0 Phelon condensors (short) 59862.  Does anyone know if i could cut the wire on the 59862 and use it on the 150?  I would hate to cut wire and not have it work due to difference in capacitence or some other reason.

[bobby167]

My parts manual for the 150 shows a 68543 condenser for the Phelon ignition. Did you try to clean the points? They could be dirty / oily from not being used. I use a point file. New spark plug? Check shut off switch & spark plug boot. Leon lists the condenser. He also has manuals there for this saw. Hope this will help you.

[bamaboilermaker]

Yes, my mistake on the typo. 150 condensor is 68543. Points were cleaned and gapped. It was amazing how clean everything was inside the points case, felts were perfectly white. Rest of saw had 1/4" of saw dust inside case. i suppose i can rig up the other condensor with a jumper wire and spin it up with a drill to see if i get spark.

If I get spark, next challenge will be getting the choke rod detached to check / rebuild the carb. I read it is easier to remove the hi/lo screws and idle screw to get alittle more rotation to disengage the rod.

[bobby167]

Search this site for shop manuals. one was posted on 4/1/17 by member undee70ss. It's the 4th edition one. Should start on page 69 or 70 for the 150

[bobby167]

There is another one or 2 that might help you. One is listed just for testing the condenser, other one is for the XL, XL2, Super2, 150, 240, 245. They are on same line all together, in homelite repair manuals.

[okie]

I would drag a lint free piece of WHITE paper through the points while they are closed.
But I also have a vom Ohmmeter that I use to test to make sure their contacts are closing good. I prefer the old style Analog vom's for testing points, condensers and magnetos. If I suspect a condenser is bad, I can get an idea if it has any capacity by using a Analog Ohmmeter set to a high ohms scale.

If I fine a bad condenser and I do not have an exact to mount in place by the points I just connect one to the kill wire with jumpers and test and have even run a saw with such for testing further operation.
If a condenser is OPEN you will still get a spark but not good engine operation.
If a condenser is shorted you will have no fire.

You can ohm your magneto with a ohmmeter. @-4 ohms on the primary and around 5K on the secondary.
Most likely points are your problem.

Be sure when you spin it with a drill you turn the engine flywheel CW. Take the spark plug out before spinning for easier operation and gay the plug at 030 to look for a good spark in low light.

Lots of 150 ign parts on flea bay.