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Post by H2100A on Nov 21, 2020 19:40:21 GMT -5
I've had this saw in storage for about 30 years and just got it out again with the hopes of using it again on my new chainsaw mill :-).
The gas line going to the carburetor is hard and crunchy while the one in the gas tank has broken into sections which are either soft or gelatinous :-(. A bit of cleanup and replacement is in order.
I've been able to source gas line, gas filter and a carburetor gasket kit but no luck on the the gas tank gasket. I'm about to cut my first custom gasket, anything I should watch out for or need to know?
Suggestions on rebuilding the carburetor would also be appreciated.
Gas oil mix suggestions is another concern. The gas tank cap says 1 pint per gallon which is 16:1. My local L&G suggests that with the improvements to 2 stroke oil formulations 32:1 would be better. Does anyone here have an opinion and/or experience? |
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Nov 21, 2020 20:48:27 GMT -5
Do you need to open the fuel tank? If you just remove the tank you can access the tank nipple, the carb is easy to rebuild and plenty of videos on Leons YouTube channel. You can use acetone and bb's to clean up the tank and reseal it with Red Kote.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Nov 21, 2020 21:32:09 GMT -5
Leon has some videos on resealing tanks if I remember correctly. Far as mix oil ratio you've opened up a door for 500 different answers. Personally I've run Stihl Ultra mix in the silver container at 40:1 with no issues. This particular oil is made to run at 50:1 but due age of these saws and not as tight tolerances I run 40:1. Oils today are much more improved. Be sure to get an OEM carb kit as the ebay aftermarkets are known to seep fuel.
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Post by H2100A on Nov 25, 2020 11:28:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the info. I've downloaded the shop manuals and have given them a quick scan. I'll probably be reading the 2100 section in a day or two.
I've been working my way through Leon's Youtube videos, there are a couple that I haven't seen yet  so I will continue with those. I got gasket material and hand cut a fuel tank gasket. At that point I discovered I'm missing a screw, ( yes I've had several loose for years, this is just one more), so now I'm going to get some spares before doing some more searching for the one that is missing. Strangely enough as far as I've been able to find there are no specifications in the manuals as to what screws they are. I got a carburetor kit from Leon and plan to replace/rebuild/clean the carburetor later today. Once I get things buttoned up I'll hopefully be able to take it out for a spin.
Since I plan to use this beast for slabbing I will be using a slightly richer than normal gas mix, probably around 32:1 with brief jaunts into 40:1 territory. Slabbing puts a lot of strain on a saw and I've seen some recommendations for more oil than for crosscut work.
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 25, 2020 11:58:32 GMT -5
Remember that adding oil reduces the amount of gas in the mix, by volume. (The carburetor mixes air and fuel by volume.) That reduces power and can lead to the engine running hot/lean because of having more oil. Also, using ethanol/gas reduces power due to less energy in the ethanol than in gasoline and can further lead to lean fuel air mixture situation.
I run nothing but ethanol free gas at 40:1 with conventional oil, but I do not slab, yet.
Be careful using rich/lean in reference to the oil mix and getting it confused with the carburetor settings. Rich carburetor settings will get more fuel to the engine, reducing temperatures. More oil in the fuel can lead to less fuel, if the carb is not reset to compensate or is unable to flow enough fuel, and that can lead to a lean/hot/damaged engine in long cutting sessions under heavy load.
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Post by lesorubcheek on Nov 25, 2020 15:29:24 GMT -5
Be careful using rich/lean in reference to the oil mix and getting it confused with the carburetor settings. Rich carburetor settings will get more fuel to the engine, reducing temperatures. More oil in the fuel can lead to less fuel, if the carb is not reset to compensate or is unable to flow enough fuel, and that can lead to a lean/hot/damaged engine in long cutting sessions under heavy load. Dan this is a great explanation. In the early days of "the addiction" with saws, this was a topic that confused me to no end. It just didn't make sense that more oil could cause a lean condition. You explained it perfectly. This kinda stuff needs to be on a big billboard in front of anyone who wants to work (or play) with saws. Dan |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 26, 2020 22:19:12 GMT -5
Thanks, I try very hard to be clear.
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so I will continue with those. I got gasket material and hand cut a fuel tank gasket. At that point I discovered I'm missing a screw, ( yes I've had several loose for years, this is just one more), so now I'm going to get some spares before doing some more searching for the one that is missing. Strangely enough as far as I've been able to find there are no specifications in the manuals as to what screws they are. I got a carburetor kit from Leon and plan to replace/rebuild/clean the carburetor later today. Once I get things buttoned up I'll hopefully be able to take it out for a spin.
