Post by bradofcentralpa on Sept 14, 2020 11:04:09 GMT -5
Hi.
I picked up an xp-1020 auto from a big lot of old homelite and Sears saws at a consignment auction this weekend. The saw generally looks really good, and I grabbed it for $5.00! This was the best looking saw in the bunch, but it needs new fuel lines. The fuel filter was bouncing around in the tank when I got it, and there's a patch of cement on the flat front of the tank (maybe it cracked?).What on earth do I do about replacing the old air filter? Don't? Would you advise doing a carb kit right away?
I'm brand new here. I've basically just gotten into cutting firewood and running chainsaws in the last year and a half. I was not brought up to be mechanical but am starting to like tinkering with my toys. I have replaced fuel lines, a recoil start, and one carburator on my cheap second-hand modern saws and just foolishly took a confident step into the world of old saws.
Now for my problem: At first I thought I'd just take the front of the gas tank off to get to the fuel filter and see if it runs. Haha. Now I know why a few other saws at the sale had cement all around the front of the tank. After taking all the screws out, I realized it was cemented shut and then read as much in the service manual. Next, I figured out how to take the tank off. It seeems I needed to take the handle off, which surprised me. Now I find there's not a grommet but a fitting threaded very tightly into the tank. I'm afraid I'm going to have trouble getting it out. Would you suggest heating up the tank around the fuel fitting with a torch? Should I instead opt to remove the front of the tank off and re-cement it? What's a safe way to do that?
Lastly, this question seems to be a hot one, but 16:1 is crazy. I'm running 50:1 in everything now. With the new synthetic oils, can I do the same with this saw?
Thanks for any and all advice. Boy, do I want to hear this thing running.
Brad
I picked up an xp-1020 auto from a big lot of old homelite and Sears saws at a consignment auction this weekend. The saw generally looks really good, and I grabbed it for $5.00! This was the best looking saw in the bunch, but it needs new fuel lines. The fuel filter was bouncing around in the tank when I got it, and there's a patch of cement on the flat front of the tank (maybe it cracked?).What on earth do I do about replacing the old air filter? Don't? Would you advise doing a carb kit right away?
I'm brand new here. I've basically just gotten into cutting firewood and running chainsaws in the last year and a half. I was not brought up to be mechanical but am starting to like tinkering with my toys. I have replaced fuel lines, a recoil start, and one carburator on my cheap second-hand modern saws and just foolishly took a confident step into the world of old saws.
Now for my problem: At first I thought I'd just take the front of the gas tank off to get to the fuel filter and see if it runs. Haha. Now I know why a few other saws at the sale had cement all around the front of the tank. After taking all the screws out, I realized it was cemented shut and then read as much in the service manual. Next, I figured out how to take the tank off. It seeems I needed to take the handle off, which surprised me. Now I find there's not a grommet but a fitting threaded very tightly into the tank. I'm afraid I'm going to have trouble getting it out. Would you suggest heating up the tank around the fuel fitting with a torch? Should I instead opt to remove the front of the tank off and re-cement it? What's a safe way to do that?
Lastly, this question seems to be a hot one, but 16:1 is crazy. I'm running 50:1 in everything now. With the new synthetic oils, can I do the same with this saw?
Thanks for any and all advice. Boy, do I want to hear this thing running.
Brad
