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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 22, 2009 18:18:13 GMT -5
That's what Rolaids are for! LOL My vote is for the SEZ as well, not as many of them out there. plus they're a real hotrod for 41cc, and they have the compression release. CSW
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Post by mikem on Apr 22, 2009 18:31:41 GMT -5
Anyone have any experience with a Homelite 150 ? The 150 was somewhat of a departure from the Homelite design when it came out in 1971 as it was the first to use a ported cylinder instead of reed valves. It is a spunky little saw too, like the little EZs. and it has nice balance and handles a 16" bar. I think it's design was Homelites answer to the competition of smaller low priced saws. Except of rhe rewind cage it was all metal. I'd like to find a blue one because that's the color of the first model that hit the street when I was working at my family's hardware store in 1971 If it's possible for a chain saw to be sexy....that's the one ! Those lines are really aestetically appealing...even more so than the SEZs.
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 22, 2009 18:41:08 GMT -5
I like 150's too I have a nice red one. I want a blue one... Granddad had one, or borrowed one at one point???
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Post by chainsawwhisperer on Apr 22, 2009 18:41:51 GMT -5
The 150 is a pita to work on
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 22, 2009 18:47:19 GMT -5
Anyone have any experience with a Homelite 150 ? $.02 I am farting around with some $20 150's, I searched a local craigslist and found a free one, then bought a runner for $20. the free one is a better saw. super simple to work on. Easy to get apart. But I did not have to go inside the (crankcase)of either one. the $20 oils better than the free one. Like I said I am tinkering to learn and I want them for the kids. RS
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Post by lesorubcheek on Apr 22, 2009 18:50:54 GMT -5
The 150 is a pita to work on Only until you've done it 3-4 times . I personally like the feel of a 150 over a SEZ. Its a larger displacement too and has fewer parts to screw around with. Only real trick I have with a 150 is getting the carb installed with the choke and throttle linkages. Besides that, its not too bad. Dan
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 22, 2009 18:53:23 GMT -5
The 150 is a pita to work on the motor does come out of there kind of interestingly... But that carb-stays-in-the-saw thing is really a trip. My father had one of these things forever and it always took thirteen thousand and 3 pulls to get it to start after sitting a while I remember being a snot nosed kid telling him the choke must not be closed. I am 41 years old he called the other day to announce that "can you believe the choke wasn't going shut!" Getting at the carb is a ordeal, but I like a saw I can break down faster than a hand gun??? call me nuts RS
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Post by mikem on Apr 22, 2009 21:06:44 GMT -5
The 150 is a pita to work on the motor does come out of there kind of interestingly... But that carb-stays-in-the-saw thing is really a trip. My father had one of these things forever and it always took thirteen thousand and 3 pulls to get it to start after sitting a while I remember being a snot nosed kid telling him the choke must not be closed. I am 41 years old he called the other day to announce that "can you believe the choke wasn't going shut!" Getting at the carb is a ordeal, but I like a saw I can break down faster than a hand gun??? call me nuts RS RS...Can you elaborate on the "carb stays in the saw thing"
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Post by MCS on Apr 22, 2009 21:35:38 GMT -5
It is an interesting design After removing the rewind and air filter cover, there are two long bolts that go through the case and carburetor and screw into the block. When these two screws are removed and two screws on the top of the case and two on the bottom, the case, which includes the gas tank, kind of slips off. The carburetor is loosely held in place by two hollow pins that go into the two bolt holes of the carburetor. It is really not that difficult to remove the case, but the first couple of times you just have to figure out the knack of doing it. ;D You have to give one a try.
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Post by quiverpup on Apr 23, 2009 8:08:54 GMT -5
I think for someone just starting to play with saws the 150 might be a great choice. As redsqrl states, they are easy to fix once you do it once or twice. They also have the diaphram oiler which is less complicated. Less parts to start with and once its "out of its shell" everything is right there. Both mine needed the oiler fixed and its a good way to get into the saw heavily without messing with cylinder or crank. They do have a little more power than the SEZ AO and nice balance. Of course, he should also purchase a SEZ AO. That way you get two saws (tell the wife the bars/ chains are same also the bar guide plates, saving money!). When he is done fixing them he will have the knowledge to work on the 150,super 2 etc., and the more conventional designs. That will give him confidence to pursue a "boot" saw like 330,550,750 or the like. Sorry mikem, but your gonna end up with more than one! you will see. My "starter" a SXL AO(required), now up to 6 and feeling the need again. Good luck!
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Post by mikem on Apr 23, 2009 9:41:02 GMT -5
It is an interesting design After removing the rewind and air filter cover, there are two long bolts that go through the case and carburetor and screw into the block. When these two screws are removed and two screws on the top of the case and two on the bottom, the case, which includes the gas tank, kind of slips off. The carburetor is loosely held in place by two hollow pins that go into the two bolt holes of the carburetor. It is really not that difficult to remove the case, but the first couple of times you just have to figure out the knack of doing it. ;D You have to give one a try. I missed a nice 150 "parts saw" last night but I am sure there will be more. I did snag an SEZ for $22 and the seller says " turns over & has compression". At least I will have something to start working on
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Post by redsqwrl on Apr 23, 2009 10:10:05 GMT -5
Well said A7, the only hting I feel to add is DO NOT ADJUST THE RODS on the carb, they really will fit back in there with out bending them, it might require a cigar, walk, Beer ect....
Mike good luck the hunt for a good deal is half the fun for me. I view all my prurchases as investments.
I somtimes I invest in parts other times i find I invest in saws, Just depends if I can get the to go again.
good luck
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Post by mikem on Apr 23, 2009 11:01:00 GMT -5
I think for someone just starting to play with saws the 150 might be a great choice. As redsqrl states, they are easy to fix once you do it once or twice. They also have the diaphram oiler which is less complicated. Less parts to start with and once its "out of its shell" everything is right there. Both mine needed the oiler fixed and its a good way to get into the saw heavily without messing with cylinder or crank. They do have a little more power than the SEZ AO and nice balance. Of course, he should also purchase a SEZ AO. That way you get two saws (tell the wife the bars/ chains are same also the bar guide plates, saving money!). When he is done fixing them he will have the knowledge to work on the 150,super 2 etc., and the more conventional designs. That will give him confidence to pursue a "boot" saw like 330,550,750 or the like. Sorry mikem, but your gonna end up with more than one! you will see. My "starter" a SXL AO(required), now up to 6 and feeling the need again. Good luck! Old Homelites seem to be like potatoe chips....you can't have just one. PS: Thank you and RS for the comments on the 150. I think it is a very interesting saw
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