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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 4, 2020 5:41:48 GMT -5
G'day, ive been messing around a bit with my 923 and for some reason recently it has just does not want to start. it must have something to do with fuel not getting to the engine but not sure what to do. Thanks.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 4, 2020 9:06:03 GMT -5
First thing to do is pull the muffler before you do anything & make sure the piston & cylinder are in good shape,then check for spark.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 5, 2020 2:28:35 GMT -5
First thing to do is pull the muffler before you do anything & make sure the piston & cylinder are in good shape,then check for spark. have checked the spark and there is plenty of spark.
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Post by charles on Jun 5, 2020 5:06:05 GMT -5
Have you tried putting fuel mix directly in the carb ? If that works , then time to inspect the fuel lines and filter . When was the last time the carb was rebuilt ?
If all that checks out , it would be time to pressure and vacuum test the crankcase to check for bad seals or gaskets .
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jun 5, 2020 8:17:48 GMT -5
I like to start with the basics...try priming it with a bit of fuel through the carburetor throat. If it fires and then dies, you know it's a fuel delivery issue. Most likely it'll need fuel hoses and a carburetor kit.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 6, 2020 3:30:13 GMT -5
yes i just rebuilt the carb and i have put fuel straight into the engine and it fired up first pop. must be the fuel hose or something. thoughts?
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 6, 2020 6:41:45 GMT -5
This happened to me once. It was my first carb rebuild. I forgot to attach the little clip to the diaphragm.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 7, 2020 4:49:41 GMT -5
This happened to me once. It was my first carb rebuild. I forgot to attach the little clip to the diaphragm. sorry what clip is this. not sure which one your talking about.
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Post by xl130 on Jun 7, 2020 5:16:57 GMT -5
This happened to me once. It was my first carb rebuild. I forgot to attach the little clip to the diaphragm. sorry what clip is this. not sure which one your talking about. **On the side of the carburetor that has the needle,spring and lever. There is a notch in the lever. If you have not already done so, you need to slide the nub on the bottom of the pump diaphragm into this notch on the lever. If that isn’t attached you will have problems.
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 7, 2020 6:07:43 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 7, 2020 9:10:34 GMT -5
sorry what clip is this. not sure which one your talking about. **On the side of the carburetor that has the needle,spring and lever. There is a notch in the lever. If you have not already done so, you need to slide the nub on the bottom of the pump diaphragm into this notch on the lever. If that isn’t attached you will have problems.That isn't the pump diaphragm,that's on the other side of the carb.The metering diaphragm is what gets hooked onto the metering lever.It's easy to get the 2 confused.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 7, 2020 22:12:11 GMT -5
**On the side of the carburetor that has the needle,spring and lever. There is a notch in the lever. If you have not already done so, you need to slide the nub on the bottom of the pump diaphragm into this notch on the lever. If that isn’t attached you will have problems.That isn't the pump diaphragm,that's on the other side of the carb.The metering diaphragm is what gets hooked onto the metering lever.It's easy to get the 2 confused. ok thanks ill check it out to make sure it is in correctly and then try fire it up. ill keep you posted.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 13, 2020 6:54:30 GMT -5
got the old saw running today. it was a brute to start but got it started and cut a few logs. definitely something still wrong with the carb, just not sure what.
also, seemed to be misfiring a little while i was cutting, was not running as smoothly as it should have been.
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 13, 2020 7:30:25 GMT -5
A video would help a lot.
You might be running to rich or lean but first thing I always do is make slight adjustments to all three of the screws on the carburetor. As long as you are noticing a difference when you turn them then move forward with tuning the carb. If you are not noticing a difference then more work on the carb might be needed.
I always start with the low and high screws at 1 full turn out. Then adjust from there. Adjusting the low screw will effect the idle so be prepared to adjust the idle as well.
I do suggest avoiding full throttle until you are certain it is running right or when you are ready to adjust that side of the carburetor. A lean setting can cause damage.
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 13, 2020 8:09:18 GMT -5
Everyone has their own methods of adjusting a carburetor. I have been working on carburetors most of my life so I developed my own system. Most of my experience is working on motorcycle carburetor which I find more complicated than a chainsaw. I just recently started working on Chainsaw carburetor. I will tell you how I do it as there are different opinions and methods.
Start my making certain your fuel mixture is correct and consistent. Slight changes in the mixture can cause a headache over time.
I do the low side by starting at 1 full turn. Start the saw and turn that screw in until the saw starts to bog. Then turn it out until the bog goes away. Then I continue to turn the screw out just slightly until the saw is responding quickly when I tap the trigger. I try to get that screw adjusted out as far as possible. You will know when you are to far. If the saw starts loading up when idling and wanting to shut off then turn the screw back in just slightly. You will have to adjust the idle as well during this. This screw is effecting your saw at idle and the first moment when you touch the trigger. Take your time on this. Allow plenty of time to notice changes in the idle.
Before you adjust the high screw make sure you are ready to cut wood. You need a good sharp straight cut otherwise you can tune the carburetor incorrectly. Start cutting and turn the high screw in until you reach maximum rpm. Then turn the screw out until the saw starts running weird. You will know when this happens. Many call it 4 stroking. Then start turning the screw back in slightly until the 4 stroking goes away. Do not take it to the point of maximum rpm. This can and will cause damage. The sweet spot is usually about 1/4 turn out from the point of maximum rpm. Make these adjustments while you are cutting or cut for a second and let off to adjust. You can get false readings if you are not cutting wood with a good sharp straight cutting saw.
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Post by nighthawk on Jun 13, 2020 8:21:02 GMT -5
The final test is done at idle. Turn the saw on its side up and down end every direction. If you see a change in idle then you have additional problems with the saw. The carburetor will not want to tune correctly if this happens. I suggest not using until this problem is resolved as it can cause additional problems if you continue to use it.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Jun 13, 2020 19:49:15 GMT -5
The final test is done at idle. Turn the saw on its side up and down end every direction. If you see a change in idle then you have additional problems with the saw. The carburetor will not want to tune correctly if this happens. I suggest not using until this problem is resolved as it can cause additional problems if you continue to use it. thanks heaps for that awesome advise, really helpful. ill give it another check this afternoon and see if i can get it tuned correctly. thanks for all that info. very useful.
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