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Post by edju1958 on May 28, 2020 21:50:49 GMT -5
I got another Super Mini in the mail today.I bought it for $18 on Ebay with a broken front handle.I figured no biggie as I have plenty of parts from my SEZ's that'd fit the bill.Of course the first thing I want to do is see if the saw has fire.This saw did not have spark,so I pulled the recoil to try eliminating the switch,but staring me in my face was the infamous blue coil.I knew right away what the problem was.I removed the coil & baked it.I'll install it tomorrow & see if I had any luck.Too bad there's not something to replace these crappy modules.
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Post by Hoggwood on May 29, 2020 0:38:17 GMT -5
I got another Super Mini in the mail today....Too bad there's not something to replace these crappy modules. Oh but there is. I about had enough with the Prestolites a few years ago and worked at finding something that could be made to swap in with minimal effort. You might be interested in finding a coil that fits any of these 50, 51, 55, 55, 61, 254, 257, 261, 262, 262xp, 266, 266se, 268, 268xp, 272, 272xp. I've done the swap on a few 76/130's. Same module as the super mini but different core/mounting pattern. Tim (fossil) and some others had good success as well. For the 76/130's you can just make a hold down tab for the rear mount. I have personally never driven out the core and swapped it over (which would make it super ez), as the OEM coils mentioned above have the welded strap. But there was talk that some AM coils are not welded. Either way, I have seen those welded straps pried off and srewed/tacked back onto OEM cores that have been swapped over on other conversions.
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Post by edju1958 on May 29, 2020 8:31:23 GMT -5
Corey,I tried this on an XL-12 that had a blue Prestolite & it turned out to be a mess.I was able to get the core out of the module,but when trying to put the new Husky module onto the Prestolite laminations that's where it went wrong.The laminations spread out & was ruined.I ended up buying an aftermarket module from 'Lil Red Barn for $49.95 & put that on the saw.This is what I meant when I said I wished there was an alternative.If baking the module doesn't work,which if it does work it'll only be a short term cure at best anyway,then I have a brand new module that I bought for just such an occasion.
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Post by Hoggwood on May 29, 2020 9:40:16 GMT -5
That is unfortunate about the laminations not cooperating.
If if there is a silver lining with those coils, it is that they managed to preserve quite a few saws from being run (much) into the ground. Now to find a consistent and viable workaround...
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Post by edju1958 on May 29, 2020 12:50:24 GMT -5
I put the baked coil on & it was dead - no spark at all,so I got the new module out & put it on & had spark.The poor saw was in sad shape - the front handle was broken & they must've used the bar to dig dirt with,& was missing the fuel cap.I had to put a new fuel line & filter in the saw too.I pulled 15 times,then gave it a prime & it sprang to life.I'll need a set of bar plates,a bar,& chain.Pics to follow.I should've taken before & after pics,but I never think of it.
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Post by rowdy235 on May 29, 2020 15:21:13 GMT -5
Glad to hear Ed, always satisfying to bring something back from the dead like that!
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Post by Supercharged86 on May 29, 2020 15:48:47 GMT -5
Hey guys, I have several of the Husky models listed above with said coil and so I thought I try the fitment on a SEZ. Because the Husky coil is mounted on the front side of the flyweel as opposed to the rear, the high tension lead comes out the top. So when mounted on the Homelite, the HTL is now aiming down as opposed to out the back with an original Blue coil. Likewise, it's a fairly tight fit with the bottom of the chassis thus requiring a sharp bend in the lead. The lead is longer so reaching the spark plug was not a problem. Would it work, probably, just wasn't thrilled with the sharp bend and constant contact with the chassis. I didn't swap the cores for a complete fitment, didn't want to risk ruining an original and expensive Husky coil. Just thought I'd mention it. Steve
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Post by Hoggwood on May 29, 2020 16:34:53 GMT -5
The XL-76/130's are a bit more forgiving with that bend in the high tension wire. I can see the smaller confines of the xl-1/super saws being tight.
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Post by edju1958 on May 29, 2020 19:31:36 GMT -5
I had a helluva time getting a bar & chain to stay mounted on this little devil.Every time I'd get to the point where it was almost tight enough it'd let loose.After going through this about 4 times I thought of changing out the bar.The same thing happened with a different bar.Finally I had to replace the adjuster pin.I'd never seen an adjuster pin chewed up like the one on this saw.After changing the pin the bar & chain stayed on & stayed tight.I put oil in the tank & I noticed oil all over the floor on my porch.I think I'll need to change the oil line that feeds the pump.Other than that it's a nice little runner.I was going to put pics up today,but it was raining out pretty good when I was finishing up & getting dark too.
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Post by Supercharged86 on May 30, 2020 7:07:56 GMT -5
The XL-76/130's are a bit more forgiving with that bend in the high tension wire. I can see the smaller confines of the xl-1/super saws being tight. I've never had one of these models so I'm not familiar with its interior design. I guess i should of snapped a few pics to show the concern.
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Post by edju1958 on Jun 1, 2020 18:50:23 GMT -5
I don't think this little saw has ever cut much wood,it just had an unfortunate accident that ended it's career.But I came along & revived it & gave it another chance.I love doing this! Here are a couple pics.
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Post by edju1958 on Aug 7, 2020 21:28:39 GMT -5
Here's an update.I tried starting the saw the other day & it just wouldn't run at all.I pulled the pump cover & saw some gunk on the one corner of the pump diaphragm & the gasket was half eaten up.I tried starting it again after putting a different gasket on it,but it was a no go.I pulled the carb & rebuilt it.I was surprised how it ever ran when I first got it.Everything was eaten up like something caustic was in the fuel previously.The tank was corroded & the fuel I had in it for only about 6 weeks smelled like it was in the saw for a yr.I put the rebuilt carb back on & it ran like a champ.The next day I tried to start it again & it wouldn't start again.It'd start cold,but after it stalled out it refused to start again.I tried starting it again today & saw it was flooding out the muffler,so I pulled the carb again & sure enough the metering lever was way too high.I don't understand how the saw ran so well when I first put it together & then wouldn't even start.I've got it running nicely now,but that pesky bar doesn't want to stay tight at all.I'm thinking of changing out the bar & put either a D096 or D196 bar on it & see what happens.
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