450 no ut # but lot # instead

[ellsworth74]

Hi guys I just picked up my for first 450 now I know that on Homelite they can have some play on the crank from clutch side to start her side which mine does I don't have a whole lot of compression but yet the piston and the cylinder looking through the exhaust Port are perfectly fine there is ware but there is absolutely no scoring no scratching no nothing could I have a problem with my SEALS or do you think I have a stuck ring. Also, without a ut # how do I find which model and year. The lot # is B6314 and serial is 13504737

[undee70ss]

314 day of 1976.

[ellsworth74]

Apr 29, 2020 12:21:18 GMT -5 undee70ss said:

314 day of 1976.

Could u tell me which model it is because there are several different 450s

[ellsworth74]

Also, according to acres they didn't come out till 78 and ended in 83

[Supercharged86]

The Walbro carb will be stamped with it's production date. So unless it was changed out at some point, the saw date will be a few months after.

[ellsworth74]

Another question, I'm pretty sure I have stuck rings in it. I've seen 2 different types of rings and pistons. 1 is thin rings, 2nd is thick. If I replace both piston and rings, does it make a difference which one i get (thick or thin)?

[lesorubcheek]

The thick rings pistons were used on the DM50. 450's properly should be using the thin rings. This is based on what's shown in every IPL I ever looked at. Now, of course a thick ring piston could at any time have been put on a saw, and sure it would run fine. And, who knows, there may have been some 450s that came with the thick rings, ya never know. But, by the book, 450s should be thin ring.
Dan

[ellsworth74]

Thank you dan

[sweepleader]

Apr 29, 2020 12:28:01 GMT -5 ellsworth74 said:

Also, according to acres they didn't come out till 78 and ended in 83

Mike Acres' data has some holes in it and sometimes conflicts with other sources. Do not be too concerned that his data is incorrect or incomplete. He has put in tremendous effort and put up a great site.

The date from the saw itself is almost certainly correct. The only option there would be if someone purposely changed the tag.

[lesorubcheek]

Based on the 8 digit serial number, with "1" being the first digit, looks like it would be built in 1981 based on the sheet shown here houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/6140/figuring-out-when-homelite-built?page=1.  Maybe I'm missing something.

Dan

[sweepleader]

The Lot# is the date on saws that have a separate one listed. The same information is coded into the front of some serial numbers. Serial numbers on a saw with a separate Lot# do not have any date information that is decode-able as far as has been published.

314 day of 1976 is correct.

[lesorubcheek]

Gotcha. Good to know. But it seems odd that the 8 digit serial number wouldn't follow the same convention that the others do. Sorta makes the serial number seem useless then.
Dan

[sweepleader]

Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. When it works, it gives an exact date. When it does not work, we have Joyce to rely on to get close, thank you Joyce! No one I know of has got an explanation about the un-decode-able serials, likely something related to corporate changes is my guess.

[ellsworth74]

Thank you all for all ur answers and help. I do greatly appreciate everything. If I do ask something about conflicting data, its never to start an argument, but it's to make sure I have the correct answers. That way I also know who to trust. And from everyone's post and comments, Joyce is the goddess of chainsaws. Thank you very much for everything you do Joyce. And once again, thank you everyone with all the advice and knowledge you all have helped with

[lesorubcheek]

Certainly no cause to feel you started an argument. Many thanks for helping all of us to learn more each and every day. I'm still very confused though regarding the serial number. It definitely makes sense that the 5 characters in the lot number tell us the line number, year and Julian date. The part that's still confusing the heck out me though is what do the eight digits mean in the serial number in these rare cases where there's a lot number that's seperate? They must mean something, but I can't for the life of me figure it out. All I could see in the memos referencing the lot number still consisted of only 9 characters total. Here, you have 5 for the lot and 8 more for the serial. Can anybody explain to this tired old mind what the serial number means here?
Dan

[sweepleader]

I for one cannot explain the meaning of those odd serial numbers and I have not heard from anyone else who can. The problems come in when the decoding does not match a lot number on the same saw and often the last group of digits represent a huge number of saws built. Those saws would normally have been built on the same day and often stretch into the thousands, too many for a single assembly line for one day. 5terrysupersaws has determined that Terry saws include serial numbers that represent all the saws built in a single year, but these numbers do not work with the US built saws having strange numbers. If you figure it out, please let us know.

And no, I do not believe any nastiness is at hand. Luckily we can argue here without anyone getting upset, everyone presents their data and we all learn. Aren't Homelites fun? :{)

[[e-mail]]

I have a chainsaw collection of around 140 saws,And I have been using the little date clock that gets stamped into the parts when die casted! I used to be a die caster and know that for each run of the die the tooling guy has to put one of those date clocks on the end of an ejector pin that pushes the part out of the die.it will have twelve places around the outside of it that he punches dots around that refer to what month it was run and the year is stamped in the center of the clock. 😉