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Post by jasonrkba on Feb 28, 2021 1:43:42 GMT -5
I tried figuring out the best material over on AS a while back and the thread never gained steam. Thank you for working on it!
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Post by keknw8 on Aug 9, 2021 12:05:50 GMT -5
i'm putting in the K10-HDC & 86-523 kits in a Walbro "HDC 45 L", dated 6/77.
the brass seat assembly is stuck it seems. i'm using a small flat screw driver that fits good under the assembly trying to pry it up but it's not budging. the brass fitting now has some niks in it so good thing i have the replacement. tried a dentist pick too.
what's the secret to popping this out?
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Post by blythkd on Aug 9, 2021 14:15:39 GMT -5
Walbro had a little slide hammer tool for that job years ago. Short of a slide hammer type tool about all you can do is pry harder. You might try tapping one side of the brass seat down just a hair to break it loose then pry up on the opposite side.
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Post by xl130 on Aug 9, 2021 16:52:41 GMT -5
I have replaced a few of those. Sometimes you get lucky and pop them out with a pick. The times that I can’t get them to pop out I CAREFULLY CAREFULLY CAREFULLY drill the center out. That usually weakens the brass piece enough that it will distort easily when prying on it.
Did I saw to be careful…,,,? That brass cuts very easily and there’s stuff right below the brass insert that you don’t want to hit with the drill bit. A quickie shot with the drill is all it takes!
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Post by keknw8 on Aug 9, 2021 19:34:01 GMT -5
Walbro had a little slide hammer tool for that job years ago. Short of a slide hammer type tool about all you can do is pry harder. You might try tapping one side of the brass seat down just a hair to break it loose then pry up on the opposite side. i tried [HARDER] with a longer screw driver (small flat head). the the brass fitting assembly broke in two. fairly brittle after all these years i guess. so, i got it out. cleaned the area up, looks good and ready to accept the new replacement parts.
i watched a couple of Leon's vids of him breaking down this same carb. his seemed easy to get out but that particular one may not have been sitting around years like this one. he also had a tiny screen under the circle clip and mine didn't. the new one has one in it though.
thanks. making progress
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Post by keknw8 on Aug 9, 2021 19:45:03 GMT -5
I have replaced a few of those. Sometimes you get lucky and pop them out with a pick. The times that I can’t get them to pop out I CAREFULLY CAREFULLY CAREFULLY drill the center out. That usually weakens the brass piece enough that it will distort easily when prying on it. Did I saw to be careful…,,,? That brass cuts very easily and there’s stuff right below the brass insert that you don’t want to hit with the drill bit. A quickie shot with the drill is all it takes! heck, didn't think of a drill but that would have worked well too. i got it out. the brass assembly broke in two. no damage to that area that i can see. i'll lay the valve on top of the bosses in the pocket and put the brass assembly in, and see how it goes.
thanks.
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Post by kozmo77 on Aug 14, 2021 16:51:33 GMT -5
Just found this thread. Very relevant. My Ebay find 150 from 3 years ago started dying . Into the HDC 20 I went. Nothing out of order... until I saw Leon's HDC rebuild on th' Tube. Polished the seat with a 2mm pin polisher from my jewelry making days. Circiut plate corroded somewhat. Rebuild kit a cheap one. Saw the much too long diaphram post and reused the old one. Foolishly removed check valve system. Check was tan weave. measuring .225" A new unit from eReplacement was installed. Did fabricate some valves from old SDC kifuel pump that was on hand- same stuff as the 15.00 valve in the unit. Must distorted the carb block driving in the brass ferrule cover. Finally realized what I did when the choke button wouldn't move... DOUGH!! Some more polish work on the shaft ... Think she will work. Great tip on folding the new vavle in, Cory. Kind of like the way my surgeon folded in my plastic lenses after removing my catarac. Only one eye from birth and now that one has a torn retina. Still working on my saws Super 2, 150, and a Big Red SXLAO. Thanks for a great place to spend moments I have left...
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Aug 24, 2022 16:50:09 GMT -5
Made a check-valve puller. Intent is to ease extraction and reuse of the check-valve seat. Very pleased with the results, minimal damage to the seat, a quick polish to the sealing surface and will be ready for reuse. Full credit to Jerry for the concept !
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Post by onlyhomelites on Aug 24, 2022 21:50:09 GMT -5
Very nice!
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Post by nimrod55 on Feb 20, 2023 22:41:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the thread sharing this knowledge. I have rehabbed a Super XL AO. When it came to the carb I didn't realize there was a rubber check valve so I gave the carb body and metallic parts a soak in my gallon bucket of carb cleaner with a dip basket. Totally dissolved the check valve.
I installed a Tillotson From an XL 12 parts saw. Had to change the fuel line hose barb. The hole in the choke lever for the choke rod is too small so had to use the rod from the 12. It works but binds a bit. The saw runs perfectly.
I have ordered a 86-523. Will replace the check valve in the Walbro SDC and put it on the saw. No more binding the choke rod.
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Post by nimrod55 on Feb 28, 2023 20:18:16 GMT -5
Got the 86-523 kit yesterday. The brass part came out fairly easily with a pick but of course destroyed the screen. Must be why they give you a new one.
A side note; I moved on to putting a OEM Walbro carb kit in. Must have been an old stiff needle valve in the kit because it wouldn't hold pressure. I have a bunch of partial Tillotson kits from rebuilding other carbs. One of the needle valves looked identical so I put it in. Holds pressure beautifully. I'm amazed that a Tillotson needle is the same as a Walbro.
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