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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 7, 2020 12:37:07 GMT -5
Homelite UT10530A
The Chain Brake is not fully releasing resulting in the chain stopping and the brake overheating. The hand guard does not appear to fully disengage. It seems to work better if I force the hand guard backwards which leads me to it is not snapping into the right position.
I found multiple videos that talk about cutting the spring and adding shims. These do not seem like solutions to the underlying problem.
Any idea on what's causing the chain brake to not fully release?
In the process of diagnosing the hand guard spring came out. I do not know how it was originally installed. I snapped it trying different positions.
Anyone know how the hand guard spring should be installed?
Does anyone have access to a service manual?
Thanks,
David
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 7, 2020 18:26:15 GMT -5
Welcome to the House of Homelite. We all have access to lots of service manuals, www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/parts-diagrams.htmlDown the page slightly, a red bar across with 4 tabs, one is for service manuals. I don't know which model saw you have but there is quite likely a manual there for it if it is not too new. Someone will be along who Does know exactly which saw you have. IPL's are on the first page of that link that may give you enough information to fix you saw. Keep the questions coming, lots of folks here to help. |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Apr 7, 2020 19:05:40 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 7, 2020 19:28:11 GMT -5
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 7, 2020 20:34:22 GMT -5
You all are great! I think I have a different model. Here is the label. It has what appears to be a date of 03-30-06. I know I bought it after '79. Is it a 33cc?  |
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 7, 2020 20:55:25 GMT -5
Well, that sticker does not look like any I have seen on a Super 2. Can you post a couple pictures of the entire saw?
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 7, 2020 21:49:18 GMT -5
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 7, 2020 21:49:48 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 8, 2020 7:01:23 GMT -5
You all are great! I think I have a different model. Here is the label. It has what appears to be a date of 03-30-06. I know I bought it after '79. Is it a 33cc? View AttachmentDefinitely not a Super 2!!!!!!!! |
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Post by ken8831200 on Apr 8, 2020 7:33:20 GMT -5
You all are great! I think I have a different model. Here is the label. It has what appears to be a date of 03-30-06. I know I bought it after '79. Is it a 33cc? Definitely not a Super 2!!!!!!!! Agree I have two different Super 2's one from around 1973 and the other about 1983 and they sure don't look like that! Is it possible that someone bought the rights to the Homelite name and just stuck it on some imported saw? I've seen that with other well know brands from back in the 1950's or 1960's that went out of business and years latter products appear with the name from back then. |
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 8, 2020 8:12:51 GMT -5
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 8, 2020 8:42:13 GMT -5
Looks like the above is the right info for your saw.
I had one of these saws as a fluke once, it was given to me as "locked up". I discovered that the brake had been dragging and caused enough heat to melt the plastic chassis of the saw. The previous owner did not want to mess with it. I spent about 20 minutes with a die grinder and cut away the melted plastic from the clutch area, it had been blocking the engine side of the clutch thus locking it up. The brake went away at the same time so I don't know what the actual failure was.
It ran fine when I reassembled what was left and I sold it for parts.
There could easily be a defect in the design that caused the problem.
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 8, 2020 8:59:34 GMT -5
Looks like the above is the right info for your saw. I had one of these saws as a fluke once, it was given to me as "locked up". I discovered that the brake had been dragging and caused enough heat to melt the plastic chassis of the saw. The previous owner did not want to mess with it. I spent about 20 minutes with a die grinder and cut away the melted plastic from the clutch area, it had been blocking the engine side of the clutch thus locking it up. The brake went away at the same time so I don't know what the actual failure was. It ran fine when I reassembled what was left and I sold it for parts. There could easily be a defect in the design that caused the problem. That's exactly what is happening. The heat is melting the plastic and as you imply, melting plastic isn't the actual failure. Something is causing the band to drag. I think the hand guard isn't going back far enough which is causing it to not fully disengage. There is a lock / indentation mechanism in the handle that holds it in the disengage position. This seems to be not working right. You cannot see how it works because it is inside the handle. Right now the spring in the handle is broken. I don't know if the spring is part of the locking mechanism. The spring is too weak of a spring to overcome the force needed to disengage. |
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Post by sweepleader on Apr 9, 2020 13:16:35 GMT -5
You could just remove the chain brake. Of course that would mean that you could face federal prison time and I could be sued into ruin. So I will not suggest that option.
I will mention that the saw I referred to above was the only one I ever owned with a brake on it and I have not managed to cut myself with a saw yet. A friend cut me with a saw (which was mostly my own fault!) but I never have. Please get and wear personal protective equipment (PPE) whenever you run a saw brake or no brake, the wounds are horrific.
I can tell you that there are two springs in there that affect the brake, one is a coil spring that applies the brake and one seems to be catch that supplies at least some of the holding force to keep the brake disengaged. It is possible that without factory training on plastic saws, it cannot be diagnosed. It is also possible that I do not know what I am talking about.
I don't like the plastic saws because I am old and cranky. I used to be in better shape and could run a metal saw all day, not so much anymore and perhaps there is a plastic saw in my future.
Best of luck.
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Post by morsecode65 on Apr 10, 2020 7:52:17 GMT -5
You could just remove the chain brake. Of course that would mean that you could face federal prison time and I could be sued into ruin. So I will not suggest that option. I will mention that the saw I referred to above was the only one I ever owned with a brake on it and I have not managed to cut myself with a saw yet. A friend cut me with a saw (which was mostly my own fault!) but I never have. Please get and wear personal protective equipment (PPE) whenever you run a saw brake or no brake, the wounds are horrific. I can tell you that there are two springs in there that affect the brake, one is a coil spring that applies the brake and one seems to be catch that supplies at least some of the holding force to keep the brake disengaged. It is possible that without factory training on plastic saws, it cannot be diagnosed. It is also possible that I do not know what I am talking about. I don't like the plastic saws because I am old and cranky. I used to be in better shape and could run a metal saw all day, not so much anymore and perhaps there is a plastic saw in my future. Best of luck. Thanks for all your help! You have been great and very knowledgeable I'm with you on the 'not so much anymore'. I refuse to move to an electric saw. I always wear gloves, long pants, long sleeves, and eye protection. I know it can tear up flesh. In all my years I have never had to rely on a chain brake, fingers crossed, knock on wood. I have an idea (my own idea  ) I think I will remove the chain brake. I am the only one that uses the saw and I like to think that I don't do anything stupid with it. |
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