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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 1, 2020 21:25:48 GMT -5
It is located under the recoil cover. thanks
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 1, 2020 23:01:19 GMT -5
just pulled the fuel filter out and it looked fairly clean
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 2, 2020 19:14:25 GMT -5
dont think that is the issue
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 3, 2020 1:04:50 GMT -5
It sounds like you are new to this model and maybe chainsaws in general (please don't take that the wrong way!). Here's a couple of documents that can help you out a bit... XL-923 Illustrated Parts List: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-921_xl-923_xl-924_chainsaw_ipl_24410-a_2.pdfHomelite Service & Repair Manual: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_chainsaw_service_shop_manual_5th_edition__pages_1-96_.pdfThose two publications will help you with location of parts on the saw and part #'s when you determine what you need to replace. You can tell a lot about the problem by listening to the saw as it dies...a "popping" or intermittent rev & then die indicates a spark issue, typically a wire that is grounding out intermittently. If you are in a cut and the saw dies out, but comes back when you release the throttle, it is running lean on the high speed side of the carburetor. This can be caused by a cracked fuel hose, plugged filter, plugged carburetor inlet filter, stiff carburetor diaphragms or an incorrectly adjusted carburetor. As others have already indicated, a saw that noticeably changes idle speed when tipped from side to side very likely has bad crankshaft seals. A seal must be leaking very badly to lean out in a cut enough to kill the engine. Keep us up to date on your progress; we'er all glad to help!
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 3, 2020 6:42:33 GMT -5
It sounds like you are new to this model and maybe chainsaws in general (please don't take that the wrong way!). Here's a couple of documents that can help you out a bit... XL-923 Illustrated Parts List: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_xl-921_xl-923_xl-924_chainsaw_ipl_24410-a_2.pdfHomelite Service & Repair Manual: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_chainsaw_service_shop_manual_5th_edition__pages_1-96_.pdfThose two publications will help you with location of parts on the saw and part #'s when you determine what you need to replace. You can tell a lot about the problem by listening to the saw as it dies...a "popping" or intermittent rev & then die indicates a spark issue, typically a wire that is grounding out intermittently. If you are in a cut and the saw dies out, but comes back when you release the throttle, it is running lean on the high speed side of the carburetor. This can be caused by a cracked fuel hose, plugged filter, plugged carburetor inlet filter, stiff carburetor diaphragms or an incorrectly adjusted carburetor. As others have already indicated, a saw that noticeably changes idle speed when tipped from side to side very likely has bad crankshaft seals. A seal must be leaking very badly to lean out in a cut enough to kill the engine. Keep us up to date on your progress; we'er all glad to help! thanks mate these were really helpful i will look into them a bit more and figure out the problem.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 3, 2020 19:01:46 GMT -5
Good luck and keep us posted!
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 3, 2020 20:59:07 GMT -5
no worries, we'll do.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 6, 2020 3:29:02 GMT -5
been doing some research and wondering if it could have anything to do with the carb timing. what do you think?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 6, 2020 15:23:58 GMT -5
There really isn't anything for "carb timing" on these saws. Port timing can be adjusted by removing material on the cylinder deck, eliminating cylinder gaskets, etc....that will affect intake timing. But that stuff is pretty advanced...beyond what most of us are doing with our saws here.
To die in the middle of a cut means the saw either rapidly loses fuel or spark. I'd check out the kill switch lead, test the kill switch with an ohmmeter and inspect, clean and adjust the points. Unless the sputters for a few seconds as it is dying out, my guess is it is an ignition issue.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 25, 2020 7:01:16 GMT -5
I thought it may be the fuel float because it was sitting for years, this would make the saw not have enough fuel coming through causing it to stall.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on Apr 25, 2020 7:08:46 GMT -5
There really isn't anything for "carb timing" on these saws. Port timing can be adjusted by removing material on the cylinder deck, eliminating cylinder gaskets, etc....that will affect intake timing. But that stuff is pretty advanced...beyond what most of us are doing with our saws here. To die in the middle of a cut means the saw either rapidly loses fuel or spark. I'd check out the kill switch lead, test the kill switch with an ohmmeter and inspect, clean and adjust the points. Unless the sputters for a few seconds as it is dying out, my guess is it is an ignition issue. how would the ignition have anything to do with it when it is running?
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Post by xl130 on Apr 26, 2020 12:32:54 GMT -5
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Post by Homelitexl923 on May 2, 2020 4:32:14 GMT -5
just rebuilt the carb and re timed the carb. it was idelling much better but still having the problem of it not getting enough fuel and it dying. also it has a problem with starting and takes a long time to start. not sure if i flooded it or not.
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Post by sweepleader on May 2, 2020 17:50:40 GMT -5
If you think you were the cause of flooding you can put the choke in the off position (where it would be for warm running) and hold the throttle wide open while you pull the starter several times. Do not use the choke and do not allow the throttle to close. If it is flooded, it should pop or sputter after 6 or 7 pulls. Pull again after it sputters and it should start. If it will not sputter after 10 pulls, take out the sparkplug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is dry, you could try the choke for one pull. You should also make sure it still has spark.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on May 3, 2020 0:45:21 GMT -5
If you think you were the cause of flooding you can put the choke in the off position (where it would be for warm running) and hold the throttle wide open while you pull the starter several times. Do not use the choke and do not allow the throttle to close. If it is flooded, it should pop or sputter after 6 or 7 pulls. Pull again after it sputters and it should start. If it will not sputter after 10 pulls, take out the sparkplug and see if it is wet with fuel. If it is dry, you could try the choke for one pull. You should also make sure it still has spark. thanks mate ill try that now.
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Post by Homelitexl923 on May 3, 2020 1:48:16 GMT -5
i know it is not flooded and there is plenty of spark. i got a little bit of fuel in a syringe and sprayed a little straight down into the engine through the carb, when i did that it started first pull but died as soon as i pulled the trigger down. i think the problem is something to do with it not getting enough fuel because of a cracked pipe or something. not too sure. any suggestions??
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Post by edju1958 on May 3, 2020 9:45:30 GMT -5
If your fuel line has a crack in it it will suck air rather than fuel.If you haven't changed the fuel line yet it might be a good idea to do so.On the 923 there are 2 separate "rubber" lines that are connected by a metal line.This connection can be found after you've taken the drivecase cover off.How does the fuel line look that goes from the carb to the metal line?
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Post by sweepleader on May 3, 2020 11:03:09 GMT -5
Well, yes, you can be sure it is not flooded if priming works.
Like Ed said above, check the fuel line. Even if it looks good but its old, I would replace it. Make sure it reaches the fuel in the tank and flops around in the tank when you tip the saw over.
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Post by fossil on May 3, 2020 11:12:07 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on May 3, 2020 13:10:04 GMT -5
All you'll need is a carb rebuild kit.A new carb,if you can even find one will be quite expensive - in the $100 range,if not more.If you have a Tillotson carb on your saw you'll need a Tiollotson RK23HS kit.
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