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Post by slk on Mar 16, 2020 18:13:18 GMT -5
I know somewhere on this site is a diagram/instructions that shows you how to adjust the needle and seat on the carb. I got my rebuild kits in and will be tackling that job tomorrow. Actually my needle and seat look to be in good shape. There was a new set in the kit, but if I don't have to take it all out and fool with the adjustment I would rather not. I remember something about bending that tang, then taking a measurement.....
Steve
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Post by slk on Mar 17, 2020 9:21:06 GMT -5
Found it..................
Steve
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Post by slk on Mar 17, 2020 13:40:21 GMT -5
Well I thought I was good to go, but I have an issue. The gas flow is not shutting off. I did not replace the needle and seat, but am thinking maybe i should have. It cranked right up and ran fine and idled down great, but after letting it sit for a couple of hours I see gas dripping. Any ideas??
Update !!!I took it apart once more and put the new needle and seat in and the leaking seams to have stopped. This bad boy sounds like a go-cart engine. Will do the true test tomorrow when I put the bar and chain back on.
Steve
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Post by onlyhomelites on Mar 17, 2020 22:40:05 GMT -5
Good to hear a needle and seat cured the problem! It's fairly common on the older HL models to need to do this type of repair.
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Post by slk on Mar 19, 2020 15:35:37 GMT -5
Quick question to everyone. Do these saw's rev up like crazy when you first start them after rebuilding the carb? The 80 did it and settled down relatively quick. I rebuilt the 66 carb today and it started right up and it scared the heck out of me revving up. I stopped it really quick and took the trigger lock off and started it back up and it idled down. I shut it off though as I do not have a sprocket on the shaft, and did not want to loose that spacer. The 80 is running great. Purrs like a kitten.
Steve
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Post by slk on Mar 22, 2020 14:58:25 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Mar 22, 2020 21:30:02 GMT -5
I see your carburetor is very similar to the one on my 707g. I think I ended up pulling that 4 times before I finally got it right.
You want the fork pushing down on the top and not indexed, I experienced almost the same results as you (flooding) when I had mine setup like yours.
I’m not sure if there’s a way to adjust the downward pressure, as that should be set by the spring. I wouldn’t mess with that part. You will have to bend the lever in order to get it sitting level with the carb body and pushing down on top of the needle, but I would bet that should be the ticket for you.
Also a really good video on Leon’s YouTube about those carbs, was very helpful for me.
Good Luck!
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Post by slk on Mar 23, 2020 9:13:46 GMT -5
I see your carburetor is very similar to the one on my 707g. I think I ended up pulling that 4 times before I finally got it right. You want the fork pushing down on the top and not indexed, I experienced almost the same results as you (flooding) when I had mine setup like yours. I’m not sure if there’s a way to adjust the downward pressure, as that should be set by the spring. I wouldn’t mess with that part. You will have to bend the lever in order to get it sitting level with the carb body and pushing down on top of the needle, but I would bet that should be the ticket for you. Also a really good video on Leon’s YouTube about those carbs, was very helpful for me. Good Luck! Thanks.... I also have had this carb off 4 times now. At least it is 10 times easier to take of than a model 17. The original set up in the carb had the arm on top of the needle. I will try rigging it like that, and see if that works. I kept thinking that the fork in the arm had to be interfering with the seating of the needle, and not letting it drop down without binding somewhere. I wonder if trying to use the old metering arm would work better, if the needles are the same length? Steve |
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