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Post by rarefish383 on Mar 1, 2020 9:29:52 GMT -5
Posted this over on AS too. I was just trying to find some one up early. Now it's getting late. I picked up the Super EZ I posted a couple days ago. It has spark. It has enough compression that it is hard to pull over with out the decomp. Put a shot of mix in the carb and it won't pop. I don't think I've ever had a saw with spark, and felt good compression not even pop? The muffler screws seem to have lock tight on them. Before I grind them off, can you think of anything obvious I'm missing that would keep it from firing. The decomp is kind of sticky and might not be sealing well, but with it open it should still fire? I'm going out to play with it now.
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 1, 2020 9:38:37 GMT -5
Bad plug, they can spark out in the open and not under compression.
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EZ Comp
Mar 1, 2020 10:57:20 GMT -5
Post by rarefish383 on Mar 1, 2020 10:57:20 GMT -5
Bad plug, they can spark out in the open and not under compression. Thanks, I have a new one. I just didn't want to take the ole one out again. It was a little hard coming out, which is not uncommon on an old saw. But, it was hard getting started again, so I took a look, and the threads look a little buggered. I was careful and got it going straight, and it threaded in OK. I'll try the new plug. |
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EZ Comp
Mar 1, 2020 11:25:23 GMT -5
Post by rarefish383 on Mar 1, 2020 11:25:23 GMT -5
The one I'm working on has a DJ6J which is what is called for. My running saw had a CJ6 in it so I tried that, still no pop. Also, the PO had a 3/8 low pro chain on it, 91 on the drive links. The chain was loose and I figured that was because it was the wrong chain and was making noise. Turns out the stub on the chain tensioner is broken off, and the bar was just pulled forward and tightened down. This is the bar that was on the saw, is this the proper bar for this saw. I didn't try a regular 3/8 chain, didn't want to pull the one off my running saw.  |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Mar 1, 2020 12:05:50 GMT -5
The one I'm working on has a DJ6J which is what is called for. My running saw had a CJ6 in it so I tried that, still no pop. Also, the PO had a 3/8 low pro chain on it, 91 on the drive links. The chain was loose and I figured that was because it was the wrong chain and was making noise. Turns out the stub on the chain tensioner is broken off, and the bar was just pulled forward and tightened down. This is the bar that was on the saw, is this the proper bar for this saw. I didn't try a regular 3/8 chain, didn't want to pull the one off my running saw. Yes. PT16381 is the right bar. PT for power tip (sprocket tip), 16 for length, 38 for 3/8" pitch and 1 for .050" gauge. 3/8"LP is not the right chain. |
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EZ Comp
Mar 1, 2020 19:36:27 GMT -5
Post by rowdy235 on Mar 1, 2020 19:36:27 GMT -5
Does this SEZ have electronic or points ignition? If the latter, I’d clean and gap the points, and make sure all connections look good on the ignition. I’ve seen saws have good spark when tested but then fail when under load. This can be very frustrating but by making sure all the connections are clean would give you the best chance.
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Post by xl130 on Mar 1, 2020 19:54:11 GMT -5
I’m having similar problems with a newly acquired saw. It’s been giving me all kinds of problems.
I have spark now but no pop when it’s pulled over. I pulled the carb and put a rebuild kit in and pressure tested it. No leaks. Put everything back together and still can’t get it to jump to life.
Pulled the carb and manifold off and ah ha! Last owner didn’t use a gasket to attach the manifold to the intake port. Smeared gasket maker on it and covered over the impulse line.
Waiting on a proper gaskets then I’ll see what I got.
You just never know what someone else has been doing with these old saws!
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EZ Comp
Mar 1, 2020 20:29:16 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Mar 1, 2020 20:29:16 GMT -5
I've also got a similar issue with an SEZ & a Super Mini.The SEZ I put together a couple of weeks ago & put in a used condenser.I tore the saw apart again today & found a bit of dirt or grease on the points.I cleaned the points again & put in a new condenser.I'll put the ignition back together tomorrow & see what happens. On the Super Mini I've got new points,new condenser,& a new coil & core.I've got great spark,but no pop.That one has me totally stumped. Ed
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EZ Comp
Mar 2, 2020 18:07:47 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Mar 2, 2020 18:07:47 GMT -5
Joe,if your saw is a points saw & the new plug didn't help,try putting a new condenser in it.The SEZ I had that gave me the sasme problems as you had a weak condenser.I had great spark & couldn't figure out why the saw would barely pop.I put a new condenser in it today & the saw fired up & was running on one pull.Just because you have spark doesn't mean the condenser is good. Ed
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EZ Comp
Mar 2, 2020 18:56:43 GMT -5
Post by rarefish383 on Mar 2, 2020 18:56:43 GMT -5
Thanks, Ed. For some reason I thought all of the Super EZ’s were electronic, but this is a 77 model, and my 1050’s in that period are points. I have doctor apts most of the week, probably won’t get back to it for a while, first thing I check will be the codensor.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 2, 2020 19:36:28 GMT -5
There's really no way to check the condenser if it's leaking or not.Leon has condensers fairly cheap (under $3).The part # is 68711 if it's a Wico system,65286 for Phelon system. Ed
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 2, 2020 21:50:49 GMT -5
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EZ Comp
Mar 2, 2020 22:22:01 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Mar 2, 2020 22:22:01 GMT -5
Sorry Dan,but those testers aren't worth a damn.I have one like that & it tells me that the condensers I have are good,but in reality they were either bad or leaking.I sent my condensers to Bob Johnson & he has a Graham tester that puts them under a load as if they're right on the saw.I was there at his shop last yr.& I saw how iit worked.It'll test a coil the same way too.I put a couple of condensers that tested "good" on a couple of SEZ's & the saws wouldn't run.Some wouldn't even pop.I changed them out & put NOS condensers on that I got from Leon,not Bob & the saws fired right up.Bob doesn't tell me the condensers are bad just so he can sell me new ones either,he does it as a courtesy. Ed
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 2, 2020 22:53:53 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Mar 3, 2020 0:07:57 GMT -5
That’s really cool, I want to put together one of those home built testers. I am lucky to have not had a capacitor bad on any of my saws, but I’m sure the day will come. I’ve got one of these cheap-y digital testers and I love it for testing radio stuff. Next time I’m working “deep” on one of my saws I’ll pull a condenser and throw it on to see what it reads out at. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F191870868908Does anybody know if specs were ever published as far as the capacitance, acceptable loss, or ESR of the original condensers? |
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Post by undee70ss on Mar 3, 2020 12:17:48 GMT -5
Does anybody know if specs were ever published as far as the capacitance, acceptable loss, or ESR of the original condensers? Yes, not for every model, specs are in the shop manuals. |
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Post by sweepleader on Mar 4, 2020 7:04:09 GMT -5
My condenser tester has never failed me, it is one from the list above.
Be aware that the Homelite tester will put about 150-170 volts on the alligator clips and the condenser. The current is isolated from ground so there should be little danger but it would still sting (and cause uncontrolled muscle movement that could result in injury if you were to slam your elbow into a vise.)
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Post by undee70ss on Mar 4, 2020 15:29:57 GMT -5
Thanks, Ed. For some reason I thought all of the Super EZ’s were electronic, but this is a 77 model, and my 1050’s in that period are points. I have doctor apts most of the week, probably won’t get back to it for a while, first thing I check will be the codensor. All Super 1050’s have points regardless of yearmade. They never made one with electronic ignition, |
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