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Post by edju1958 on Feb 29, 2020 9:01:10 GMT -5
As you might've read in my other post in "I'm In SEZ Heaven",the handle bracket mount broke from the drivecase.The drivecase is in 2 separate pieces,right & left.The right side is the one that needs to be replaced.I just acquired another EZ with a seized engine & I'm wondering what it'd take to pull the right side plates of the drivecases & interchange them?I see there's the seal & the bearing.How do I get the bearing out?The other 3 screws that hold the drivecase to the engine are already out (located under where the oil pump is),& the screw in the front by the bar studs is out too. Ed
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 29, 2020 15:17:22 GMT -5
Ed, The drivecase is just one piece, the clutch side. The flywheel side is technically the crankcase. So after removing the three screws underneath the oil pump and removing the piston and rod, the two pieces will separate easily. There's a rubber oring that seals this assembly. The crankshaft will come out with the drivecase. Once out, you'll see two retaining screws that keep the crankshaft attached to the drivecase. Once removed, the two will seperate. That's about it. Easy peasy.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 29, 2020 17:42:14 GMT -5
That was what I was afraid of.I didn't want to have to tear the engine apart,especially taking the piston & connecting rod apart.The connecting rod bearings will be all over the place & there goes that engine.I think I'm back to seeing about getting it welded. Ed
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Post by Supercharged86 on Mar 1, 2020 12:13:57 GMT -5
That was what I was afraid of.I didn't want to have to tear the engine apart,especially taking the piston & connecting rod apart.The connecting rod bearings will be all over the place & there goes that engine.I think I'm back to seeing about getting it welded. Ed
Yeah, the needle bearings can be a bit of a PITA. I use a tiny bit of grease to hold the little bastards and a thin wooden dowel thats been threaded on the end to line up and hold the cap and rod together while i get one cap screw snugged up. |
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 1, 2020 12:53:49 GMT -5
I still think that the easiest way to fix what's broken is to have the part welded back on,but that might prove to be difficult too as it's right there by the fuel tank.Maybe fill the fuel tank with water,then nothing to worry about.Apparently my retired welder neighbor isn't interested in helping me out (he & his wife have had a bug up their butts for yrs.because I was married to a Russian woman & didn't get their permission,ain't that rich?).I'll make some phone calls to other welders & get some prices. Ed
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Post by Supercharged86 on Mar 1, 2020 16:47:18 GMT -5
I'm not sure if these parts are aluminum or magnesium??? If magnesium, not sure about welding? But if welding is possible, why not remove the tank so there's no worries? Or course, the water trick usually works pretty good too.....until it doesn't.....and surprise.
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Post by jselden78 on Mar 1, 2020 19:19:05 GMT -5
It can be welded, usually tig welding is best for something like this especially if it is a magnesium alloy. I believe most of these saws were magnesium alloy but it would be tricky. Cleaning it would be the most important step of the process, much like an aluminum alloy the magnesium would have to be cleaned thoroughly for the weld to hold much less the aesthetics of it. It would be hard to make a repair like that and it look good in the end. I would choose replacing it if I had the part. The rod needles can be bad if you let them be. I did struggle with the first few I did but I learned there is a difference in putting the grease on the rod before and after the needle installation. It’s way easier to me to put a little grease in the rod first then install the needles. It’s almost effortless like that. I’ve done some where I put the needles in first then grease on them to hold them in place and that wasn’t fun at all.
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Post by rowdy235 on Mar 1, 2020 19:23:07 GMT -5
This is quite a conundrum Ed. It sounds like a lot of work to tear down all the way, but that would definitely be the “best” option.
I was always under the impression the cases we magnesium but recently on the homelite fb page a member posted that the case was an alloy with only a very small percentage magnesium, which can supposedly be welded. I’ve seen magnesium catch fire before and I personally wouldn’t get anywhere near it with a torch or welder- but a professional welder may be willing to take it on. If its aluminum that obviously wouldn’t be an issue. Then of course there’s the issue of the fuel tank, but filling that with water should suffice for the job.
I think on your other thread the blue devil “welding” (actually brazing) rods were brought up. I’ve seen this used a lot to repair holes in aluminum boats for which it works fairly well, but I don’t think it has a good deal of structural rigidity, despite what you may see advertised. I guess it may be worth a shot, as it can be melted with a propane torch you wouldn’t need to worry about igniting the Mg.
Let us know if you have any luck finding a welder to take on the job. If not, maybe time to try a couple other options, and if all else fails, can consider replacement of the drive case.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 2, 2020 12:55:49 GMT -5
I just got off the phone with a welding outfit & they couldn't give me a price or even if they could do the job.Funny thing is it's right next to the place I used to take my saws to be repaired.They said to bring the saw in & they'd take a look at it,so I've got to line up a ride out there. As far as the part that's broken being really clean,I think it's pretty clean as you can see in the pics.I can clean up any oil residue with alcohol & it should be good to go. Ed
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Post by fossil on Mar 2, 2020 14:14:53 GMT -5
Magnesium as well as Aluminum is somewhat porous and oil can be under the surface. It generally calls for several heat cycles to drive out the oil from saws. There are guys who TIG weld magnesium with great results and not many left that can gas weld it anymore.
Unless there is mag dust or oxide present it is not easy to catch it on fire.
The big issue with mag burning is trying to extinguish it.
The most common diecast magnesium is roughly 90% magnesium, 8-9% aluminum, a bit of zinc and small amounts of other metals.
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 2, 2020 17:45:29 GMT -5
If I get there & he tells me it'll be $40 or more,then I'll just walk out of the place.It's looking more & more like I'll be changing out the side with another one.I've got another saw here that's seized,so I'll take that one apart first in an aluminum roasting pan to catch any connecting rod bearings that might fall out,then I'll know what I'm in for with the other "good" saw.Always have a Plan B. Ed
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