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Post by sweepleader on Feb 22, 2020 10:08:05 GMT -5
Anyone tried to seal one of the blue modules after baking? My theory is that moisture gets in and causes the failure, heat drives it out. (Not original but it's mine.)
I wonder if dipping in something, (like poly or ???), might prevent moisture from re-entering the works?
Any other thoughts on this?
Anyone have repeat failure/revive with heat cycles?
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 22, 2020 14:24:04 GMT -5
I had an electronic module on another non _ Homelite saw that was dead.I baked it & it came back.This module had cracks in it,so I gave it a coat of marine varnish to seal it.It didn't hurt the module as it still had spark.I haven't checked that saw in about 1 1/2 yrs.now to see if it's still got spark. Ed
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Post by rowdy235 on Feb 22, 2020 15:28:23 GMT -5
I could see that working on a coil where the outside material was damaged or worn, and it can’t hurt to do it, so I say why not. I’ve only baked one coil and it did not bring it back to life, so I’m not much help there.
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Post by Hoggwood on Feb 22, 2020 20:48:26 GMT -5
I've attempted to bake numerous coils from my XL-76/130's. Some repeatedly. They all failed eventually. They are not subjected to moisture or high humidity in my region. I spent a long while through trial and error to find a suitable coil to retrofit. I used a Husqvarna 61/272 etc. Tim (Fossil) and some others followed with successfully using the same setup.
What I would like to eventually sort out is a coil that readily accepts the core from the Prestolite. Plug and Play.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 22, 2020 20:57:23 GMT -5
I've attempted to bake numerous coils from my XL-76/130's. Some repeatedly. They all failed eventually. They are not subjected to moisture or high humidity in my region. I spent a long while through trial and error to find a suitable coil to retrofit. I used a Husqvarna 61/272 etc. Tim (Fossil) and some others followed with successfully using the same setup. What I would like to eventually sort out is a coil that readily accepts the core from the Prestolite. Plug and Play. Did you inspect/clean the system ground connection between the module and armature prior to baking ? |
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Post by Hoggwood on Feb 22, 2020 21:13:00 GMT -5
I've attempted to bake numerous coils from my XL-76/130's. Some repeatedly. They all failed eventually. They are not subjected to moisture or high humidity in my region. I spent a long while through trial and error to find a suitable coil to retrofit. I used a Husqvarna 61/272 etc. Tim (Fossil) and some others followed with successfully using the same setup. What I would like to eventually sort out is a coil that readily accepts the core from the Prestolite. Plug and Play. Did you inspect/clean the system ground connection between the module and armature prior to baking ? I do start with the ground connections and eliminating the switch. One - I think an XL-1 - required a new crimp connector at the module. I never baked the coils overnight though. Usually for a few hours. Next time, I might try for 12+ hours. |
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Post by jselden78 on Feb 22, 2020 21:21:47 GMT -5
For me, something like baking an ignition module can't simply be a solution. If the baking helps there is reason for it. It would make sense for the moisture to be the reason, that would be one of the only variables that the heat could change that would have an effect. If in some case it does not work, could it be the moisture was there long enough to have a lasting effect such as corrosion? Could be that the ones that were baked successfully were baked early enough on before the moisture had its opportunity to make the lasting damage. I could also be completely wrong but for me the logic would be with the moisture, otherwise what else does the baking do?
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 22, 2020 23:33:19 GMT -5
Did you inspect/clean the system ground connection between the module and armature prior to baking ? I do start with the ground connections and eliminating the switch. One - I think an XL-1 - required a new crimp connector at the module. I never baked the coils overnight though. Usually for a few hours. Next time, I might try for 12+ hours. The system ground connection can only be accessed by removing the armature. It's a casual/friction contact terminal, between the armature and module, that provides a path for the HV spark to return to the module internals. On a running saw the voltage spike reflection from the poor or corroded connection in this area, can lead to the eventual failure of the SCR. |
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Post by Hoggwood on Feb 23, 2020 12:31:42 GMT -5
I do start with the ground connections and eliminating the switch. One - I think an XL-1 - required a new crimp connector at the module. I never baked the coils overnight though. Usually for a few hours. Next time, I might try for 12+ hours. The system ground connection can only be accessed by removing the armature. It's a casual/friction contact terminal, between the armature and module, that provides a path for the HV spark to return to the module internals. On a running saw the voltage spike reflection from the poor or corroded connection in this area, can lead to the eventual failure of the SCR. I am not entirely following, but would like to. Are you saying the retaining clip that is through the module makes contact with abother terminal in the module? I figured there was only the wire lead that was being bonded through the armature to the engine. |
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Post by ettrick on Feb 23, 2020 14:29:56 GMT -5
I assumed the baking was to slowly melt the resin to fill or seal the cracks that had developed between the coil wires creating shorts. If to hot that could be a problem causing to much melting affect, and to cold none. I would think getting more resin in the cracks would be a good thing. Of course if the wire is open do to arcing it will not help.
Dan
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Post by charles on Feb 23, 2020 19:23:15 GMT -5
The blue coil from my one owner SXL AO finally failed after 39 years . The picture shows a gap of about 0.030" where the shell pulled away . I haven't tried to bake it yet , but would think resealing after baking would keep it alive a little longer ! Charles Attachments:
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 23, 2020 19:44:04 GMT -5
The blue coil from my one owner SXL AO finally failed after 39 years . The picture shows a gap of about 0.030" where the shell pulled away . I haven't tried to bake it yet , but would think resealing after baking would keep it alive a little longer ! Charles The system ground contact is visible in the picture, make sure it is clean as well as the area where it contacts the armature. |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 25, 2020 15:04:53 GMT -5
The system ground connection can only be accessed by removing the armature. It's a casual/friction contact terminal, between the armature and module, that provides a path for the HV spark to return to the module internals. On a running saw the voltage spike reflection from the poor or corroded connection in this area, can lead to the eventual failure of the SCR. I am not entirely following, but would like to. Are you saying the retaining clip that is through the module makes contact with abother terminal in the module? I figured there was only the wire lead that was being bonded through the armature to the engine. The coil itself needs a ground, this is generally done by a ground lead with an eyelet, which is then placed under the coil retaining screw. However, sometimes coil manufactures use a shim strap lead instead. This shim strap will be sandwiched between the core laminate and module. This friction fit will then provide the necessary ground. A coil using a retaining clip is not generally used for a ground, it's there so the laminate core doesn't move with vibration. |
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 25, 2020 16:31:20 GMT -5
For the on/off switch?
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 26, 2020 0:52:57 GMT -5
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Post by Hoggwood on Feb 26, 2020 1:41:33 GMT -5
Thanks fellows. Good info.
I don't recall seeing that system ground on the Prestolite equipped on the 76/130's. I've pulled the retaining clip and core on a couple of them. But, I wasn't aware/looking for that feature.
I will look again and report back with a pic.
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Post by Supercharged86 on Feb 27, 2020 11:57:49 GMT -5
Ok. Sorry, I guess I missed understood the dicussion; plus I was looking at a SEZ blue coil which in addition to the retaining clip, has separate leads for ground and kill. The retaining clip is only that. |
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Post by Hoggwood on Mar 24, 2020 21:15:34 GMT -5
Here is the one of the Prestolite coils off of the XL-76/130 series. Maybe I don't see a system ground??? Nonetheless, I've baked a few like these without any lasting results.  |
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Post by edju1958 on Mar 24, 2020 22:49:39 GMT -5
I've baked a few too & have had pretty much the same results - they generally don't last long or hold up at all.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Mar 24, 2020 23:39:14 GMT -5
Here is the one of the Prestolite coils off of the XL-76/130 series. Maybe I don't see a system ground??? Nonetheless, I've baked a few like these without any lasting results. Hard to tell from that pic , but the system ground looks damaged on that module. What is the resistance measurement of the primary and secondary ? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- EDIT: I was totally wrong. No excuses! |
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