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Post by xl130 on Feb 8, 2020 9:09:34 GMT -5
Just finished pulling the crankshaft and main bearing into place on my XL130. I had a hard time getting the crank seal to seat properly. The Dichtomatic replacement for 58308 is a tight fit ( probably a good thing).
I installed the seal into the crankcase first then pulled the shaft and bearing in. The step in the shaft kept rolling the inside lip of the seal out of place. I tried 2 or three times with the same thing happening. I decided to try a different approach and pull the shaft and bearing in and then press the seal in. This worked much better for me due to the fact that this seal is rubber with no metal casing.
Has anyone else had this problem? How did you deal with it?
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Post by fossil on Feb 15, 2020 12:18:04 GMT -5
When installing seals where they have to go over the step in the crankshaft, I build the area above the step up with electrical tape so the seal will slip over the step. That prevents the seal from curling over and possibly dislodging the garter spring.
Don't get any tape on the area past the step or the tape won't come out. Some people use a piece of mylar sheet or a piece of pop can.
The seal you are using is for a 0.625 or maybe a .630 dia shaft. The XL-130 has a 0.65 - .656" shaft.
Normal interference shaft to seal is about .050" and you're up to .075" so it's tight. I'm not sure how that will affect seal life.
The general comment from the seal manufacturers is that a seal that is too tight will eventually wear a groove in the shaft.
I think for occasional work it should be OK.
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 15, 2020 12:40:55 GMT -5
I have two tools that I use on occasion to help with seal lips. One is a small (1/8") flat blade screwdriver that has had all the edges rounded off so it is quite blunt. It is still flat but the sides and tip are full radius with nothing to cut the seal. The other is a 6" length of 1/4" brake line tubing with a loop of a smooth paper clip stuck in the flattened end. The tubing is squished a bit before the wire loop is inserted then crushed tight to hold the wire. The wire loop protrudes about 3/4" from the end of the tubing. I actually have a loop in each end of the tubing of different sizes.
Both of these tools are used to nudge the lip into place a little at a time. They work well if use carefully. The garter spring can still be a problem sometimes.
I like the idea of using tape on the shaft, never tried it but I will remember it. I would think a pop can section might cut the seal lip if great care was not used.
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Post by xl130 on Feb 15, 2020 13:03:03 GMT -5
The tape sounds good. If I have to go back into this one I’ll try that. I used a small flat head screwdriver to work the lip around the step. I’ll find out soon enough if I poked a hole. I don’t think so but it’s possible.
Hopefully the seal is seated well. I ruined one of them by damaging the spring and luckily had bought two just in case I encountered this type of problem. With a two week wait to get it in to stock I’m glad that I did have an extra.
I’ll find out about damage to the crank or reduced seal life l guess. I won’t be using the saw every day so it hopefully will last my life with it.
I have a couple of saws on my shelf that I plan to replace seals on. I’ll keep those tips in mind.
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Post by fossil on Feb 15, 2020 13:05:53 GMT -5
I have two tools that I use on occasion to help with seal lips. One is a small (1/8") flat blade screwdriver that has had all the edges rounded off so it is quite blunt. It is still flat but the sides and tip are full radius with nothing to cut the seal. The other is a 6" length of 1/4" brake line tubing with a loop of a smooth paper clip stuck in the flattened end. The tubing is squished a bit before the wire loop is inserted then crushed tight to hold the wire. The wire loop protrudes about 3/4" from the end of the tubing. I actually have a loop in each end of the tubing of different sizes. Both of these tools are used to nudge the lip into place a little at a time. They work well if use carefully. The garter spring can still be a problem sometimes. I like the idea of using tape on the shaft, never tried it but I will remember it. I would think a pop can section might cut the seal lip if great care was not used. I'm not crazy about the sharp metal deal either but a lot of guys make it work. I use a piece of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe on the Poulan 3400 series which works great. I believe most of the manufacturers had a tool for installing seals which would make it easy and relatively fool proof. Unfortunately, most of us don't have access to a lathe to duplicate one for the old saws. Going slow is the best way with those hard to find NLA seals that aren't duplicated today like 58308 and 12306. |
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Post by xl130 on May 31, 2023 5:22:15 GMT -5
Hello all. I wanted to update this thread. It’s been about 3 years since I installed this Dichtomatik seal to replace the OEM 58308 clutch side.
I decided to pressure vacuum test the saw with my mityvac today. I’m happy to announce that is still hold 7psi of pressure and 7 inHg vac for over 5 minutes without any change.
It’s been field tested now for nearly 3 seasons. I have used the saw fairly often for all types of cutting around my property. Full disclosure though , that I have not used the saw for long all day cutting sessions.
The seal is a totally acceptable replacement in mind and definitely worth considering if you cannot obtain a OEM seal.
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mack2
Collector wannabe
Posts: 12
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Post by mack2 on Jun 3, 2023 15:28:11 GMT -5
Hi All Just an update on the QEM # 58308 seal the only different in all of the 5/8 inch seals is the OD the 58308b is 15/16'' OD all other 5/8" seals are /was 7/8" . Now some of you might not like this , But every Chainsaw that had a 6203 - 17mm 40mm x 12 mm Bearing USED a 5/8"" seal ONLY the OD was Different
Claude (mack2)
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