XL-901? Need help identifying

[bit]

Recently, I picked up another saw project.  Buying saws has become a real problem lately!  As soon as I get one, I want to take it apart, find out what I need, start ordering parts and start working on it.   I 

It was listed as an XL-700 because it had an XL-700 starter cover on it.  But, while reviewing the pics, I noticed right away that it did not have the oil pump body on the side of the throttle handle housing.  So, I assumed it was an XL-901 based on the color scheme.  Price was right (after some negotiating) so, after a few questions back and forth with the seller, I bought it.  The ID tag is long gone and I have been trying to find something else to confirm that this is an XL-901.  It has the 5/16 bar studs.  The saw is complete except for the drive case/clutch side cover.....which has been hard to find so far... Part# 63009-2

This is the first larger XL series that I have ever touched, and some of these are so similar, I had to reach out to the forum experts for some help.  If anyone could shed some light on this to confirm the correct model, I would really appreciate it.  

Here are some pics...

[fossil]

It looks like it has everything that would identify it as an XL-901. You did your homework there.

As far as the clutch cover goes, the manual oiler only covers look a little different than the auto oiler models.

I think an XL-700 cover would work but someone who owns both and an auto oiler model with 5/16" bar studs would have to verify what cover will fit.

[edju1958]

I looked into getting a new cover for my 902,which is the same part #,  & they are pretty much extinct.The 903 cover is the same also.I'd suggest to try to find either a 901,902,or 903 as a parts saw,or use your saw as a parts saw & try to get another one.I've learned to check for parts availability first before I buy a saw,unless it's given to you for free,or you get it for a song.You might want to check Feebay or Chainsawr on a regular basis.There's a guy in Ky.who has a bunch of older Homies,& he might have something for you.I'll get you his phone # later.

                                                                         Ed

[bit]

Thanks for the input!  So, here's my next set of questions.  At looking at the decal sets on Sugar Creek's site, there is early version and a late version set of decals.  It looks like it had 2 possible starter cover designs...in regards to decal placement based on the cover layout.  Is there any way to determine which version saw should be on this saw?  I assume that it would be based on the build date but, since I don't know what that is....maybe at this point it, should just be personal preference?  I'd like to make it correct as possible but, I guess it is what it is.  If anyone knows if there is any difference in the early and later model versions of this saw (like a slight component change), I'd be curious to know what it would be.

My OCD is strong today.....

[fossil]

Someone else would make a better guess but I believe I've read the blue saw is early and the red version is later.

[bit]

That's what I thought as well.  Then.... I ran across these pics:

[bit]

I been disassembling this saw over the past week or so...and I started cleaning all of the case parts.   Since I have never worked on one of these, I've been learning a lot.  However, while inspecting the drivecase/tank assembly, I noticed something that seemed odd to me.  At the bottom of the drivecase, just below the cylinder mount studs, I noticed 2 gaps between the cylinder section and the tank section.  Is this normal?  It just looks like someone took a hacksaw to it. 




I also found damage to the bar stud mount in the case... a chunk broke away...not sure how to fix this, or if should even worry about it.  The stud was a little wobbly before removing but, not bad.  Thoughts?


 

[edju1958]

You should be able to fix that piece where the bar stud goes with some JB Weld.If the stud was just a bit wobbly it's only going to get worse over time.I've made this suggestion before - save this saw for a parts saw & find yourself another 901 that's complete.Sometimes we just gotta cut our losses.I found out after about a yr.of trying to save every saw I had that it's just not possible.

                                                 Ed

[bit]

Ed,

Unfortunately, at this point, I have too much invested in this saw to make it a parts saw. I have all of the other components to complete the project. I just ran into a couple issues this weekend that had me scratching my head. This is going to be another restoration for my collection. If the only issue that I have right now is the stud mount, I would be more inclined to holding out to find an NOS crankcase & fuel tank assembly, part # A-65879. Yeah, I'll have more in the saw than what it's worth but, I'm OK with that, as I'm not planning on selling it. I just can't bring myself to throw in the towel on this one.

[Clasec]

Personally I would have it welded. Should be able to reinstall the stud and retainer then weld it as the magnesium will not stick to the steel. On second thought you may want to use a bolt the same size as the retainer to prevent the weld from flowing under or over the hole.

[edju1958]

Feb 9, 2020 11:47:05 GMT -5 bit said:

Ed,

Unfortunately, at this point, I have too much invested in this saw to make it a parts saw. I have all of the other components to complete the project. I just ran into a couple issues this weekend that had me scratching my head. This is going to be another restoration for my collection. If the only issue that I have right now is the stud mount, I would be more inclined to holding out to find an NOS crankcase & fuel tank assembly, part # A-65879. Yeah, I'll have more in the saw than what it's worth but, I'm OK with that, as I'm not planning on selling it. I just can't bring myself to throw in the towel on this one.

Sorry bit,I didn't know you were into this saw that much.I know I tried finding a drivecase cover for my 902,which takes the same part # as your 901,& I came up with nothing.I looked all over the web & had my parts guy looking as well.He did find one,but when his buddy opened the packaging it was in,it was in pieces.Did you ever find the drivecase cover?

                                                               Ed

[bit]

Yep, going deep in the wallet for this one! I guess I'll just finish everything I can for now and wait until I can either fix the bar stud issue or find the part I need. Yes, I found a used drive case cover.

[riseandrun]

Hi Bit, Here's another possible solution for fixing your stud retainer. www.youtube.com/watch?v=wy1dNqXfUws Let me first say I've never tried it on any type of repair. I was working on my riding lawn mower and looking for information on the rear axle and I started watching video's about some AMAZING repairs using this stuff. I hope someone reading this might be able to supply first hand experience. I was thinking if you could build a "dam" around the corner it might add some support since the stud already will catch some of the treads.
I understand your saw "problem". CAD is a serious disorder...:-)

[edju1958]

You've gotta watch out while heating magnesium.If you get it too hot it'll catch on fire & bye bye saw.Once magnesium catches on fire there's no putting it out unless you belong to a fire dept.& have the special powder they use.

                                                  Ed

[bit]

I actually have some of that but have been hesitant to use it any saw parts. Been afraid of catching that mag on fire. I have a small broken section off of another part. I may get the guts to try it on that to see how it works....outside....and if I catch that little piece on fire, I wont really loose much. Now I just have to find it...

[riseandrun]

That's good info to know. I didn't know they were magnesium. I thought they were a "pot metal." Safety always...