|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 21, 2020 10:41:42 GMT -5
My buddy picked this up for me, he knows I love old homelites. I pressure washed it and checked for spark. It has tons of compression, hangs by the rope real nice. I was just curious if anyone could decode the serial number for me and identify when this saw was made. I plan on taking apart the carb for a good cleaning and inspection this week and replacing the fuel lines and filter. Hope to have it running this weekend. The bar is in good shape and the chain as well. I have a feeling this thing sat unused for a long time.    |
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 21, 2020 10:43:37 GMT -5
Serial number is 1411584, kind of hard to see in the picture.
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jan 21, 2020 12:49:06 GMT -5
Serial number is 1411584, kind of hard to see in the picture. Early 1963 |
|
|
|
Post by ronaldt on Jan 21, 2020 13:02:28 GMT -5
The day that the old archives are discovered that tells how to decode a 6 or 7 digit serial number will be declared a national holiday on HOH! Until then, thankfully we have chainsawlady's sales records to get us close.
|
|
|
|
Post by rarefish383 on Jan 21, 2020 14:28:37 GMT -5
That is a pretty one.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 21, 2020 22:43:44 GMT -5
Well I had some time time to take the carb apart and clean it tonight after work. Now I have a couple questions. I removed the hi and low speed adjustment screws before removing the carb. The holes that they screw into both seem to have a bit of an o-ring seal. The two seals didn't look identical which makes me wonder if I should just push a nice fresh oring in each hole to prevent any air from leaking past the mixture screws. Or if they are some special kind of o-ring. Next question is about the fuel filter. Can I use any old weighted fuel filter that I can source from my local chainsaw repair shop or is the something special about the original style filter? Lastly, I rigged up a small fuel bottle like an IV bag to provide clean fuel just for the sake of hearing it run. Unfortunately it didn't run without the choke on or just barely off choke. I believe this is either due to an air leak on the mixture screws because of the poor seals or that I was just way of base on my initial adjustment of said screws. I just did a baseline setting of 1.5 turns out from bottomed, is that a good starting point on these carbs? I'll attache a couple pics for reference.   |
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 22, 2020 9:02:27 GMT -5
1.5 turns open should be plenty to run just fine. The o-rings on the mixture needles won't be causing all (or most) of what you are experiencing. I'd check the height of the fuel inlet arm and make sure the inlet needle isn't swollen shut.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 22, 2020 9:52:21 GMT -5
1.5 turns open should be plenty to run just fine. The o-rings on the mixture needles won't be causing all (or most) of what you are experiencing. I'd check the height of the fuel inlet arm and make sure the inlet needle isn't swollen shut. Is there a specific height that I should set the fuel inlet arm to. Similar to setting float height on a regular bowl type carb? |
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 22, 2020 15:39:59 GMT -5
These Tilly carbs seem to like to have the needle flush with the inner part of the fuel inlet area. They aren't usually a problem unless someone without proper knowledge tries to adjust one. The swollen needle tip (if it's got a rubber tip) is much more common. Ethanol or carburetor cleaner will do this.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 22, 2020 18:40:37 GMT -5
Seems like the needle is hard plastic. Not swollen. Moves great.heres a few pics of how it sits. I replaced the fuel lines and filter. Just doesnt seem to pull fuel.
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 22, 2020 18:41:20 GMT -5
Woops forgot the pics   |
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 22, 2020 21:12:51 GMT -5
Well that looks about right. Did you have the fuel turret off to check the inlet spring?
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 22, 2020 23:08:52 GMT -5
This one doesnt have the plastic fuel turret on the bottom it's a cast aluminum turret that comes into the side of the plate that screws to the bottom of the carb body. Hope that makes sense.
I took everything apart again to make sure I didn't miss any specks of dirt or varnish. And then put it all back together. It runs better and pulls fuel now but still not right. It will run on the choke for a while and then partial choke but never without choke. It starts to lean out. I pulled the carb off and disassembled again. Its gonna soak in my carb cleaner solution overnight.
Tomorrow I will try again. If that doesnt do the trick I will order a carb kit that includes Welch plugs. Hopefully I don't have to go that route. It seems like all my gaskets and diaphragm in nice and pliable but you never know.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll let you know what I find out.
|
|
bit
Collector
Posts: 96
|
Post by bit on Jan 23, 2020 7:42:51 GMT -5
Maybe it's just me but, by the looks of the pics of your carb and needles....it looks like you have the Low and High speed needles swapped. The sharper tipped needle should be your high.
|
|
|
|
Post by scotts2000 on Jan 23, 2020 8:37:20 GMT -5
Also the order the gasket and diaphragm go down will have an effect on fuel brought in..make sure they go down in the right order..
|
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 23, 2020 9:09:28 GMT -5
Thanks guys.i made sure to take pictures as I was taking everything apart si that I didn't put Nything back in the wrong place. I re cleaned everything last night and put it all back together. I also switched the needles. By the time I got done last night it was way too late to be firing ut up. That thing will wake the dead.
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jan 23, 2020 9:16:34 GMT -5
Yes,they are quite loud with the stack "muffler" on them.Might as well run it with a straight pipe on it.Lol Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by ronaldt on Jan 23, 2020 9:48:02 GMT -5
Yes,they are quite loud with the stack "muffler" on them.Might as well run it with a straight pipe on it.Lol Ed
I do love that sound! |
|
|
|
Post by bigskyxj on Jan 23, 2020 20:01:19 GMT -5
Well I have switched adjustment screws and that made it worse. I pressure tested the turret cover was leaking. I couldn't get it to stop. I ended up replacing the cork gasket with an oring which got rid of the leaks. But when I start it it will run on the choke for about 30 seconds. Then I back the choke to about half. It runs for another 30 seconds or so then with no choke it leans out and dies.
Any more ideas? Also I found a tillotson manual that shows the long slender adjustment screws as being the low side adjustment so I put it back that way.
|
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Jan 23, 2020 23:20:47 GMT -5
Did you try running after switching the screws back? If they were wrong it definitely would not run good.
If its only running on choke thats indicative of fuel not wanting to get through (hence the lean condition requiring the choke). Will the saw run differently if you give it throttle?
|
|
