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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 19, 2020 13:22:20 GMT -5
I don't want to keep taking up space with individual questions so I'm sticking them all here. I got the recoil off, had to grind a stripped bolt off. When I got the head mostly ground off, down to the little skirt, it came free and I turned it out with my fingers. Now the flywheel. My 4 way puller was too big, so I ran down to Harbor Freight this morning and bought a smaller one. Size looks perfect for all of my saws. The problem is the smallest bolt in the set looks one size too big for the 3 holes in the flywheel. Does anyone know what size those 3 holes are. I threaded one of the recoil bolts in and it seemed like the correct size. When I got to the hardware store the recoil bolt is a little smaller than a 1/4" and a little bigger than a #10. I don't want to force a 1/4X20 in it and strip it. I should have bought 3 in case that's the right size.
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Jan 19, 2020 13:33:57 GMT -5
I always spray a freeing agent on the shaft while I work on other parts. When I'm ready I use a solid rubber mallet and tap the sides all around and a few taps with a punch and metal hammer on the shaft end and POP it comes right off. I add a bit of never seize on the shaft to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 19, 2020 13:44:37 GMT -5
I like the never seize idea. I use that stuff on almost every thing, and always find new stuff for it.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 19, 2020 14:08:37 GMT -5
Tapped the flywheel with a rubber mallet and it just fell off. The points looked like they were welded together. As soon as I find one of my point files I'll touch them up and see if I have spark. The saw is really cruddy inside so I'll probably wait till tomorrow to take it outside and clean it. We have family over and they always think I'm going to blow the house up spraying brake cleaner down stairs.
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Post by Jarhead ☠ on Jan 19, 2020 14:10:34 GMT -5
I like to use vinegar and Dawn dish soap warmed up and sprayed all over the saw to loosen and clean up all the old built up crud!
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 19, 2020 14:26:52 GMT -5
This saw is complete and straight. I'm thinking about making sure it runs, and then taking it apart and restoring it. The paint shop in town said they can match any color I have and put it in a rattle can. Cost $17 per can. I have an NOS XL700 air filter cover that is blue. If it's the same color I'll let them match it to that.
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Post by sweepleader on Jan 19, 2020 21:36:38 GMT -5
While there may have been no problems so far with Never Seize on a crank taper, the reason for the taper is so the flywheel and shaft lock together. Lubing that surface, especially with an extreme pressure lube could cause the flywheel to sheer the key. Its up to the builder regarding the methods they want to use, I put a light film of light oil in there to prevent rust and that's it. I feel it is a mistake to go farther.
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Post by scotts2000 on Jan 19, 2020 22:47:41 GMT -5
While there may have been no problems so far with Never Seize on a crank taper, the reason for the taper is so the flywheel and shaft lock together. Lubing that surface, especially with an extreme pressure lube could cause the flywheel to sheer the key. Its up to the builder regarding the methods they want to use, I put a light film of light oil in there to prevent rust and that's it. I feel it is a mistake to go farther. I'd have to agree on this one.. there hasn't been a flywheel yet I couldn't get off so dont see the need for Never seize... using one of the ebay style flywheel pullers or home made job similar is the best route.. although I have beaten on flywheel and it works, it's just pad practice... I have also broken parts this way.
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Post by scotts2000 on Jan 19, 2020 22:51:18 GMT -5
Tapped the flywheel with a rubber mallet and it just fell off. The points looked like they were welded together. As soon as I find one of my point files I'll touch them up and see if I have spark. The saw is really cruddy inside so I'll probably wait till tomorrow to take it outside and clean it. We have family over and they always think I'm going to blow the house up spraying brake cleaner down stairs. Please go try super clean.. you will never use a can of brake clean again.. on decaled and finely painted surfaces I would be careful with any method of cleaning.. super clean is awesome stuff .. spray let soak and rinse with water.. again watch how long you soak on painted parts... when I disassemble saws I clean all parts this way.. blow dry with compressed air and spray with some.wd 40 while whipping parts down... I have cleaned hundreds this way.. comes out awesome...
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 19, 2020 23:03:16 GMT -5
Where do you buy this Super Clean?
I've had flywheels that fought me tooth & nail.I had an SEZ last spring that took over 3 weeks to get off.I used heat & penetrant,& I beat on that damn thing.After letting it set with penetrant for 2 weeks I came back & beat it again & finally it came off.I had another blue EZ that was pretty much the same thing.I had a puller on this one,my first time using that cheap Ebay piece of crap,at least the bolts were.The bolts got bent to the point of almost being unrecognizable.
Ed
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Post by scotts2000 on Jan 20, 2020 0:49:33 GMT -5
Where do you buy this Super Clean?
I've had flywheels that fought me tooth & nail.I had an SEZ last spring that took over 3 weeks to get off.I used heat & penetrant,& I beat on that damn thing.After letting it set with penetrant for 2 weeks I came back & beat it again & finally it came off.I had another blue EZ that was pretty much the same thing.I had a puller on this one,my first time using that cheap Ebay piece of crap,at least the bolts were.The bolts got bent to the point of almost being unrecognizable.
Ed
Walmart... I suppose we all have differnt experiences with these saws so I cant comment on your experiences..doesn't sound fun either way..
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Post by xl130 on Jan 20, 2020 7:38:12 GMT -5
Tapped the flywheel with a rubber mallet and it just fell off. The points looked like they were welded together. As soon as I find one of my point files I'll touch them up and see if I have spark. The saw is really cruddy inside so I'll probably wait till tomorrow to take it outside and clean it. We have family over and they always think I'm going to blow the house up spraying brake cleaner down stairs. Please go try super clean.. you will never use a can of brake clean again.. on decaled and finely painted surfaces I would be careful with any method of cleaning.. super clean is awesome stuff .. spray let soak and rinse with water.. again watch how long you soak on painted parts... when I disassemble saws I clean all parts this way.. blow dry with compressed air and spray with some.wd 40 while whipping parts down... I have cleaned hundreds this way.. comes out awesome... Sorry to interrupt your posting rarefish but I was wondering what thst contraption is in the picture. Homemade flywheel puller? I have been looking to make one.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 20, 2020 10:02:56 GMT -5
That's not mine. I was going to make one like it though. I have a good drill press, and I had a plate of 1/8" steel. I have steel hole saws from another project. The hole saws have a guide drill bit in the center, so you wind up with a perfect hole in the center of the circle. Then I would center my round plate on the crank and mark the plate where the 3 holes need to be. I think that's Scott's picture and he elongated the holes to work on different size flywheels. I was going to drill my holes exact for one size, then rotate it a little and drill another set for bigger or smaller Flywheels. But, I ran down to Harbor Freight yesterday and bought a steering wheel puller set for $15. It fits perfect for flywheels that have 2 or 3 bolts. The only problem is the set comes with several different size bolts, and the smallest were too big. I'm heading to the hardware store now to see if I can match the bolts. This is the puller I got. www.harborfreight.com/Bolt-Type-Wheel-Puller-Set-62620.html
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Post by xl130 on Jan 20, 2020 11:08:15 GMT -5
A proper tool for flywheel removal is definitely worth taking time to make or purchase(especially it it only costs $15 dollars). I recently removed the flywheel off of my XL130. I don’t have a puller so I did it the barbaric way. Let the flywheel soak in penetrating fluid for a couple days, move the nut to the end of the threads, hold the power head by the wheel and hit it with my ball peen a few times. Worked...but definitely not the “best” method. Messed up the jam nut a bit though and now I need to replace it.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 20, 2020 11:46:39 GMT -5
That's basically how I got this one off. I still haven't found the proper size bolts for the puller. BUT, I didn't use the ball peen. I used a rubber mallet and just tapped around the out side of the flywheel. I'd tap a couple times, turn a little, tap, turn, and it fell right off. I'm always afraid to put the nut back on and tap/whack it. Some saws the nut on the crank is only about 2-3 threads thick and whacking it with a steel hammer can knock the thread right out of it. Keep checking back on this thread. When I find the proper size bolt I'll post it here.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 20, 2020 12:24:50 GMT -5
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 20, 2020 12:27:54 GMT -5
Leon, are those flywheels drilled for 12X24? 1/4X20 was a little too big, and 10X24 was too small?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 20, 2020 12:32:09 GMT -5
Yes they are. Super XL starter bolts w/washers work well in my experience.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 20, 2020 16:08:29 GMT -5
Made some good progress. Installed a chip, shot mix down the carb, and it runs. Here's a step by step of the chip installation. I'll put the pic up first and describe what I did under it. This is the underside of the Starter/recoil with the flywheel removed. To the bottom right you can see the bolt and plastic loop that holds the wiring harness out of the way. Just in front of the bolt, you can see the end of another bolt coming from the other side of the saw, that holds the bottom of the piece of tin the on/off switch is mounted on. I'm going to take that bolt out and replace it with a hex head 10X24 bolt 3/4" long. I'll run the hex head bolt through the mounting hole on the chip and through the casing of the saw. This is the head of the bolt that will be replaced with the hex head bolt from inside. I took the bolt out and this is where the chip will sit. This is the ground/negative wire. I'll feed it between the tin plate, and slide it on the 10X24 bolt when I stick it through. I filed the flat of the bolt hole to good metal for a good ground. Once I get the wire loop on the bolt, I'll push the tin plate onto the bolt, and tightne it down with a NyLock nut.
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Post by rarefish383 on Jan 20, 2020 16:26:35 GMT -5
The ground wire is between the tin plate and the shiny nut, can't see it. This is the positive wire. All I did was take the condenser out. I left the points in as a mounting point for the coil wire and switch wire, already there. You have to run the hot wire through the hole with the wiring harness. I didn't the first time and they got pinched under the flywheel. This was my first try and it won't work. You have to push the chip all the way to the left, and run the hot wire through the harness. You can see the shiny tip sticking out. It will slide under the coil and come up right where it attaches to the points. Sorry I didn't get a shot of the 3 wires attached to the points. The coil wire, the chip hot/positive wire, and the switch wire. This is what it looks like finished. This is basically how I have the chip in my Super 1050, it's been there 10+ years and runs fine. I stuck the starter back on and pulled it over with the plug out and had a nice bright spark. Took it up in the garage and put a shot of mix in it, nothing. It took 3 primes to get enough fuel in it to make it happy. After the third squirt of fuel I got 5-6 good puffs of smoke, then it fired up. Sounds good, but not as loud as I hoped with the stack muffler.
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