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Post by riseandrun on Jan 11, 2020 12:00:03 GMT -5
Rowdy235 has spurred me on to attempting to fix my 330 again...Ed your next..  I have the saw taken apart again. I have a suspicion than the oiler might be working, it's just leaking out before it gets to the oiler hole. This is based on every time I've had it running lately I don't have oil coming to the bar, but when I turn it off I have oil all over the cardboard I set it on. So far I've squirted some oil in the hole in the oiler base to the bar hole and oil goes through. I replaced that line years ago with tygon, and will do it again for peace of mind. Other than that, I'm not sure where else to look. There are 3 lines that go to that oiler base. Two of the lines seem tight, I'm replacing the other one. If you can't see it in the picture, half the gas tank is covered in oil....  330 pan by Kevin Wolf, on Flickr |
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 11, 2020 13:41:52 GMT -5
a little confusion on my part.. the hoses don't go to the oiler pan, they come off the engine (?) Either have anything to do with the oiler? I have an IPL and will look at after lunch...  330 hoses by Kevin Wolf, on Flickr |
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 11, 2020 18:13:35 GMT -5
Wow this saw can be frustrating. I changed the base gasket on the oiler. The old one looked pretty pressed down, and I had an extra in my parts box. Making me think that I've worked on this project before. I'm guessing I got it on my visit to Joyce's chainsaw parts and museum...store. After putting everything back together I had an extra vibration mount bolt, but decided to try and start it anyway, and I have gas coming out of the bottom now! It did run long enough for the gas I put in the carb to burn out. My guess is my new tygon line isn't tight enough in the gas tank.. What else could it be? I also put a duckbill in the hole that had none in it. lol...Good thing the weather is so bad. It was still enjoyable taking apart and cleaning it up. Imagine how happy I'll be when I get the saw operational.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 11, 2020 19:57:42 GMT -5
Yeah,I know I'm next,don't remind me.Lol It's gonna be a while,I've got about 5 other saws that are in line in front of that 330.I'll get to it eventually though. Thinking about your situation with oil all over.I believe the oil takes a slight path through the carb plate.Check to see if the nipple where the oil line hooks onto isn't cracked.There are 2 actually (I think),it's been a few months since I've been into that saw.Make sure your lines aren't cracked too. Ed
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 11, 2020 23:19:48 GMT -5
I’ll take a look at mine when I get home, out of town for the weekend.
I believe if memory serves there are a total of 3 lines for the Oiler. Two attach below to the carb plate. One leads from the engine (pulse for the action) and the other is output to the bar. The input attaches to the front of the Oiler itself and comes from the oil tank, obviously l.
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 11, 2020 23:30:06 GMT -5
Also with regards to the fuel, on one of my super 2s the previous owner had drilled out the hole in fuel tank causing me to not be able to get a good seal. I have had good luck with a product called “seal all” that comes in a yellow tube. Put a thin layer around the junction and it is still leak free 2+ years later.
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 12, 2020 19:09:06 GMT -5
I got the seal all and slathered around the tube then pulled a little bit of the tygon into the tank. Then sealed again. Now I think I might be missing a gasket. The IPL shows one. Can anyone verify it's missing? Thanks!
 330 gas cap by Kevin Wolf, on Flickr and the oiler gasket. Possible problem?  oiler. by Kevin Wolf, on Flickr |
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 12, 2020 21:45:44 GMT -5
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 12, 2020 22:34:13 GMT -5
Thanks for that info Leon. Am I correct in thinking that some Homelites have pressurized fuel tanks? And with the lack of a duckbill, and the wrong cap, my saw would be harder to start?
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 12, 2020 23:59:49 GMT -5
The duckbill you installed is all it needs...the cap just needs to seal up the filler neck. I'm afraid that isn't the issue here.
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 15, 2020 12:52:52 GMT -5
I put the saw back together and half filled the gas tank awaiting my new gas cap. Happy to report that it's running. I didn't put any bar oil in it yet because I decided I would use regular bar oil that's warmed up in my house. If I were to thin it a little what could I use?. I'm hopefull the new pump gasket is making a good enough seal to work. Compare the two above...
One thing I have learned with starting it, I initially had L and H out 1 full turn. Would not fire. I opened it up maybe another half and it fired. I've also learned to not leave the choke on until it fires the first time. After a few pulls, maybe two or three, I turn the choke off. Learned the same thing on my 150. Wouldn't fire, but after turning the choke off, it would start within the next few pulls.
The 330 sounds pretty good. Will report back with the oiler test....
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Post by Clasec on Jan 15, 2020 14:21:49 GMT -5
I put the saw back together and half filled the gas tank awaiting my new gas cap. Happy to report that it's running. I didn't put any bar oil in it yet because I decided I would use regular bar oil that's warmed up in my house. If I were to thin it a little what could I use?. I'm hopefull the new pump gasket is making a good enough seal to work. Compare the two above... One thing I have learned with starting it, I initially had L and H out 1 full turn. Would not fire. I opened it up maybe another half and it fired. I've also learned to not leave the choke on until it fires the first time. After a few pulls, maybe two or three, I turn the choke off. Learned the same thing on my 150. Wouldn't fire, but after turning the choke off, it would start within the next few pulls. The 330 sounds pretty good. Will report back with the oiler test.... Here is the recommended oil for a 550. It like the 330 uses a pulse activated piston pump. I haven't had good luck using regular bar oil in 330s.Charles.  550 OILER by Clasec, on Flickr |
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 15, 2020 18:07:40 GMT -5
Kerosene pry works best for thinning. I'm running 5w20 since I have a good supply of it (my ranger runs 5w20 and takes 4.5 quarts, so I have a lot of half quarts around)
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 16, 2020 16:46:33 GMT -5
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 19, 2020 19:57:32 GMT -5
Interesting idea! And doesn't look like it would be that hard to retro-fit. However...I ran the saw twice on the 15th, and after I thinned out the oil, I took it back out and I barely got the saw to fire!!! I thought maybe I flooded it, then let it sit, tried again a few times with the same results. And this was after I thought I had the carb set pretty good. Can you say aggrevating?!? It's sitting in my shed. Still has gas in it. I'll grab it and give it a few pulls, and I'm getting nothing...
I've been tearing apart my bathroom so the saw is going to sit for a while...thanks for the input..
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 21, 2020 19:50:53 GMT -5
I picked up a NOS oil tank/handle assembly for my 330.It was leaking oil all over the air filter area.A member here told me he had the same problem with his 330 & it took multiple times to repair with JB Weld.I've already had the saw apart a half dozen times & don't care to make it an even dozen. Ed
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 21, 2020 21:52:14 GMT -5
I agree, sounds like its flooded. My 330 is somewhat temperamental with starting, they can flood out very easily. Not as easily as my craftsman brush cutter, but thats a topic for another thread. If you haven't replaced the plug recently I'd suggest it, as a good plug can help avoid flooding. And Ed, I feel like you should be able to dear down a 330 blindfolded with one arm tied behind your back by now  |
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 22, 2020 16:21:39 GMT -5
Well Rowdy you are correct x 2 ! It was flooding and I should probably get a new plug. I messed around with the saw today while I waited for some paint to dry (haha) After it didn’t start, I took the pull assembly off to spray down with some WD-40 and noticed a pool of gas by the muffler. I tried to start it again and this time with no cover and no choke and it fired up, idled real good, and has a real nice response to the throttle. Still no oil, but...when I put the cover on with it running it died. Clogged air filter!!!. Lesson learned. Don’t go by looks..
Ed, I’m not sure what you are describing?
I did notice that I believe there is a duckbill that is right at the top center by the air filter housing. Could that affect my oiling problem?
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Post by rowdy235 on Jan 22, 2020 20:00:43 GMT -5
Usually when duckbills fail they leak instead of not letting air in, so I don’t think that’s the issue, always a possibility though.
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Post by riseandrun on Jan 25, 2020 15:56:45 GMT -5
Back to the 330. It's a lousy day in the midwest, but not terribly cold, and just a thick fog. I had an idea for checking the impulse line to the oiler. I would start the saw and use my finger to see if I could feel any "pulse" :-). After getting it started (which alone is encouraging) I started taking the oiler off, and the engine rpm started increasing. retighten and rmps return to normal. So I'm thinking this is not a good way to test the oiler...is there a way to do a bench test?
I shouldn't assume that it's NOT bad, it's just that everything looks good to my untrained eye. lol. At least I didn't have to use WD-40 to get any parts free, and then have it work...
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I have the saw taken apart again. I have a suspicion than the oiler might be working, it's just leaking out before it gets to the oiler hole. This is based on every time I've had it running lately I don't have oil coming to the bar, but when I turn it off I have oil all over the cardboard I set it on. 
