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Post by edju1958 on Jan 3, 2020 16:58:12 GMT -5
I picked up this C5 last summer & fiddled with it a bit back then.I rebuilt the carb & it seemed to run fine for a bit,but then started giving me problems.I got the saw out today & after a prime it fired right up & ran nicely for about 20-30 sec.As soon as I went to throttle it up it'd cut out like it ran out of fuel.I made sure the tank had plenty of fuel in it.I'd start the saw with the throttle lock on,so it was at fast idle,but each successive time I tried to throttle up it'd die on me & each time I restarted it it ran for shorter periods.I put a new fuel filter in it when I rebuilt the carb back in July.The only thing I didn't do was replace the fuel lines.The line coming from the fuel tank barb to the carb looks to be new.I thought of putting a new Tygon fuel line onto the carb's inlet with a filter on it & run it into the fuel tank through the fuel cap opening.This should tell me if the line is bad that's on the saw now. The other thing that sticks in the back of my mind is that it might not be a fuel issue at all,but rather an electrical issue instead.It wouldn't hurt to pull the flywheel & clean up the points.I might find a loose or frayed wire giving me the same symptoms.The lasty case scenario that I've run through my brain is that the condenser might be starting to break down.I'd greatly appreciate any input anyone has to offer. Ed
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bit
Collector
Posts: 96
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Post by bit on Jan 3, 2020 18:07:28 GMT -5
It sounds like you're on the right track. I tend to replace the fuel lines and filter on every saw I work on, regardless of what they look like. That way, I know what I have. Maybe a clogged gas cap vent? If not the gas cap vent...If the carb rebuild is solid, I can only assume it might be a bad electrical connection or component somewhere. I've found a few of mine where someone has been "fixing" things before... and did a poor job. When in doubt, I typically just replace things that look or act questionable.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 3, 2020 22:45:56 GMT -5
I'm thinking it's a fuel hose...the first few seconds of running could have allowed the hose to crack with the vibration. Most of the time when I encounter ignition issues like an intermittently shorting wire, I get a "pop" when I try to rev a saw up and it'll cut in and out.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 4, 2020 0:06:28 GMT -5
I'm thinking it's a fuel hose...the first few seconds of running could have allowed the hose to crack with the vibration. Most of the time when I encounter ignition issues like an intermittently shorting wire, I get a "pop" when I try to rev a saw up and it'll cut in and out. Thanks Leon! I'll give the new fuel line a shot tomorrow.Is there any "simple"way to get the new line onto the barb from the tank to the carb?I've found one way to do it is to remove the air box,but that's quite involved.Also,the line that's in the tank is another tricky one to replace.I'm assuming that the tank cover has to come off.The line in my tank is nice & pliable & rubbery,so I think that one's OK. Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 4, 2020 0:21:57 GMT -5
I'd just remove the tank (remove the front handle and the 4 tank screws) and then unscrew the tank fitting if at all possible. Splitting the tank risks leaks when you are done.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 4, 2020 14:49:26 GMT -5
I got the C5 running,but I think it's in dire need of crank seals.The problem was not the fuel line,it just looked too good to me to be bad.I put a different fuel cap on as the one that was on didn't have the sintered aluminum tube for ventingWhen I had the line disconnected from the carb I blew through the line & it wouldn't vent till I put the other cap on.Apparently whoever had the saw before me put the wrong plug in it & it wasn't really tight as it should be.I put a good used CJ8 in it & it fired right up.I don't know if it's commonplace for this to happen,but I accidently touched either the plug or the boot while it was running & got quite a "tickle".I did the tip test & it cut out immediately.The clutch side shouldn't be a problem,but the flywheel side looks to be a real PITA to replace the seals. Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 4, 2020 16:11:38 GMT -5
The ignition systems on these saws can provide quite a shock.
The flywheel side seal will require complete removal of the ignition. The toughest part will likely be the flywheel removal; have your torch ready if it is too stubborn.
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 4, 2020 21:34:31 GMT -5
The ignition systems on these saws can provide quite a shock. The flywheel side seal will require complete removal of the ignition. The toughest part will likely be the flywheel removal; have your torch ready if it is too stubborn. I was able to remove a flywheel from a completely seized C5 last summer,but I don't remember how I did it.I know I didn't use a torch,& I do remember using a hammer.If I'm not mistaken it did take quite a bit of beating.I also remember what a job it was to remove the ignition system,that's why I said it'd be a real PITTA.Are you interested in the job Leon?It's all yours,just say the word.Lol Ed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Jan 5, 2020 1:03:36 GMT -5
Once you've done a couple ignitions, it isn't so bad. Three screws if I remember right!
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 5, 2020 11:39:21 GMT -5
I found the part #'s for the 2 seals for the C5,they are 56256 (FW side) & 58308 (Clutch side).I did a search on your site Leon & came up empty.I did a search on Ebay & I simply refuse to pay $30+ $4 shipping.Unless there's an aftermarket seal available the saw will set till hell freezes over. Ed
EditLI found an aftermarket seal for the clutch side 58308 which crosses to an SKF 7414.I found this in a bookmarked thread made by jbowski.This was for replacement seals on his SXL.The FW side is a totally different # from the C5 to the SXL on the FW side.Any help on finding a seal that crosses from Homelite part # 56256 to a National,SKF,CR,etc.is greatly appreciated!
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Post by scotts2000 on Jan 5, 2020 16:37:22 GMT -5
Ed, there is a 56256 for 14.56 plus 4 shipping.. I know you didn't want links to ebay but seal isn't 30 ... I have these seals in my inventory as well but shipping is higher from canada . Scott
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Post by edju1958 on Jan 5, 2020 21:00:07 GMT -5
Ed, there is a 56256 for 14.56 plus 4 shipping.. I know you didn't want links to ebay but seal isn't 30 ... I have these seals in my inventory as well but shipping is higher from canada . Scott Yes,I saw this one too.If I can get the 58303 for half that price I should be able to get the 56256 for the same as an aftermarket seal.$19 for a seal is just too much.Thank you for your efforts,much appreciated.
Ed
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