XL Clutch thrust washer

[dpress]

In an attempt to solve my problem with variable chain tension (see a previous thread) Santa brought me a new clutch sprocket and Oregon chain to fit my XL-TI (U/T 10619C). Unfortunately today when I removed the old sprocket I discovered that there was no internal thrust washer (part 95299) fitted behind the clutch drum. Sourcing Homelite parts in the UK is a bit of a nightmare so I have ordered some 1mm thick shims from a UK bearing firm today with an i/d of 10mm and o/d of 24mm which is rather smaller than the original ones which are 32mm o/d. I don't think this will make any difference between the clutch drum and the clutch itself, as the centre of the clutch that the thrust washer bears on is only 24mm wide anyway. My concern is more for the outer thrust washer, which may act as a barrier to stop the chain coming off the sprocket? Am I correct in thinking this, or is such an eventuality unlikely to happen? The reason I ask is I am going to get my parts saw put back together as well, and it has no thrust washers present at all, so I will have to use one of the 24mm wide ones on the outside of the clutch unless I can source the right part this side of the pond!

Thanks, Steve

[chainsawlady]

Steve
My inventory list shows I have 57 - 95299 original Homelite washers. I don't like to send parts out of U.S. but maybe I could try again. Price is $2.07 each plus shipping. [e-mail]

[chainsawlady]

Message was from [e-mail] - Sorry for mistake.

[sweepleader]

Maybe if you taped a couple to the inside of a Christmas Card they would go through the mail...???

[dpress]

So grateful for the quick replies - I have sent a personal email to Joyce.

Steve

[edju1958]

Dec 26, 2019 14:50:10 GMT -5 sweepleader said:

Maybe if you taped a couple to the inside of a Christmas Card they would go through the mail...

Maybe prior to 9/11 it would've been OK,but going through customs now would definitely set off metal detectors.Poor Joyce would have the FBI,SWAT team & God knows who else banging on her door.She doesn't need that.Lol

                                                             Ed

[5terrysupersaws]

Dec 26, 2019 13:13:14 GMT -5 dpress said:

In an attempt to solve my problem with variable chain tension (see a previous thread) Santa brought me a new clutch sprocket and Oregon chain to fit my XL-TI (U/T 10619C). Unfortunately today when I removed the old sprocket I discovered that there was no internal thrust washer (part 95299) fitted behind the clutch drum. Sourcing Homelite parts in the UK is a bit of a nightmare so I have ordered some 1mm thick shims from a UK bearing firm today with an i/d of 10mm and o/d of 24mm which is rather smaller than the original ones which are 32mm o/d. I don't think this will make any difference between the clutch drum and the clutch itself, as the centre of the clutch that the thrust washer bears on is only 24mm wide anyway. My concern is more for the outer thrust washer, which may act as a barrier to stop the chain coming off the sprocket? Am I correct in thinking this, or is such an eventuality unlikely to happen? The reason I ask is I am going to get my parts saw put back together as well, and it has no thrust washers present at all, so I will have to use one of the 24mm wide ones on the outside of the clutch unless I can source the right part this side of the pond!

Thanks, Steve

  Does the new Drum/Spur have excessive end-play with 1 thrust washer installed on the outside ?

I replaced an original Drum/Spur on a Super-2, with an Oregon part, and there wasn't enough clearance to
use an inner and outer thrust washer,  trying to correct a similar chain tension issue .

[edju1958]

I don't know if customs X-rays stuff,but I do know that it goes through a metal detector.If the metal detector gets set off then customs has the authority to open the mail & inspect what's in there.In some countries if they see something they like they'll keep it for themselves.Usually it happens in the poorer countries.

       I'm sure you filled out a customs form when you sent quarters to Germany,if not you were taking unnecessary risks.It only takes about 3 min.to fill out a customs form.I've sent things to Taiwan,Philippines,& a fellow AS member in New Zealand.

                                                                Ed

[onlyhomelites]

I've actually had surprisingly little hassle shipping internationally. I can fill out the customs forms and pay for the postage online with all my domestic orders. Haven't had an international shipment disappear yet (as I knock on wood!!).

[blythkd]

Dec 26, 2019 19:06:09 GMT -5 5terrysupersaws said:

Dec 26, 2019 13:13:14 GMT -5 dpress said:

In an attempt to solve my problem with variable chain tension (see a previous thread) Santa brought me a new clutch sprocket and Oregon chain to fit my XL-TI (U/T 10619C). Unfortunately today when I removed the old sprocket I discovered that there was no internal thrust washer (part 95299) fitted behind the clutch drum. Sourcing Homelite parts in the UK is a bit of a nightmare so I have ordered some 1mm thick shims from a UK bearing firm today with an i/d of 10mm and o/d of 24mm which is rather smaller than the original ones which are 32mm o/d. I don't think this will make any difference between the clutch drum and the clutch itself, as the centre of the clutch that the thrust washer bears on is only 24mm wide anyway. My concern is more for the outer thrust washer, which may act as a barrier to stop the chain coming off the sprocket? Am I correct in thinking this, or is such an eventuality unlikely to happen? The reason I ask is I am going to get my parts saw put back together as well, and it has no thrust washers present at all, so I will have to use one of the 24mm wide ones on the outside of the clutch unless I can source the right part this side of the pond!

Thanks, Steve

  Does the new Drum/Spur have excessive end-play with 1 thrust washer installed on the outside ?

I replaced an original Drum/Spur on a Super-2, with an Oregon part, and there wasn't enough clearance to
use an inner and outer thrust washer,  trying to correct a similar chain tension issue .

It used to be fairly common, or at least it wasn't that uncommon, to find even a Homelite sprocket that did not have enough room for both washers.  I found a few with only the outside washer installed and I installed a few that way myself.  Of course, it's proper to have a washer inside and one outside the sprocket/drum but if they won't fit, it was pretty inconsequential to use only the outside washer.

[troy64]

Should the chain sprocket have axial play once the nut is tightened down?

[sweepleader]

Yes, there should be enough that the chain can align it with the bar without binding anywhere.

In response to your question regarding the washer preventing the chain from coming off the sprocket, I feel the chain should be adjusted so that the bar groove keeps the chain aimed at the sprocket without the washer. The washer will allow the chain to be operated with "too much" slack but I don't believe that it should be counted on to retain the chain. If there is enough slack for that to come into the picture, I would be adjusting the chain. Your mileage may vary.

[5terrysupersaws]

 On early models, only one washer was used. Here's more info ;

                      houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/8350/super-clutch-thrust-washer-1or2

[dpress]

Some interesting points raised here. My old sprocket has really only minimal wear on the teeth, and as the bar was not a Homelite one, I have assumed that the clutch sprocket cannot be original, and probably a previous owner has lost the internal washer during a sprocket change - it is a 1985 saw after all! The bearing on the old sprocket is definitely past its best, and there was what I felt was too much slack on it, and too much end play with just a single washer. The new sprocket is better, but still too wobbly on the shaft with the single washer. When I found a spare thin washer I was able to cinch it up tight and the wobble has been all but eliminated. The sprocket is now just a fraction too tight against the clutch but just right on the shaft, and as the shim washers in the post to me will be a few thou thinner, they should solve the problem completely. If as Leon says the external washer is not designed to retain the chain on the sprocket then the 24mm dia shims should be fine for use on both saws both behind and in front of the sprocket. Certainly the chain and bar would have to be unbelievably slack for the chain to come off the sprocket, and I will make sure that does not happen! I will report back once I have fitted the new shims with the Stens sprocket, and the new Oregon chain - I suspect the excessive 'wobble' of the sprocket on the crank may have contributed to my chain tension issue, along with the worn chain, even though all links were free to move.
Thanks for all the thoughts on this matter. Steve

[dpress]

Just to update this thread. Chainsawlady very kindly sent me 2 thrust washers in normal mail (thanks again Joyce), so I had everything needed for the job. As I have a low boredom threshold I had been fiddling with the power head while waiting, and decided that there was too much end float, and a noticeable amount of 'rock' in the main bearings. To cut the story short I took the whole motor to pieces and replaced the main bearings with the newer caged type, and reset the end float. With everything back together, and having measured the crank at exactly 0.500" there was still a bit of rock at the far ends of the crank on either side, at which point I decided I was just being too pedantic with this saw! The piston and barrel are perfect - it seems to have done very little work, so I put it all back together and fitted the new Stens sprocket. Even with everything in good order there was still insufficient clearance to fit 2 thrust washers - I am lacking about 20 thou clearance which I suspect is because there is a small raised lip on the inside of the sprocket where the hole for the bearing race is formed. I don't have an original Homelite sprocket to compare, but the lip is about 20 thou. I have not tried to grind it off (I would only ruin it), so there is still float on the sprocket, but hey... When adjusting the chain I have simply set it to what is a decent tension and then checked the 'snap' with the safety lever on - this grabs the sprocket to stop any wiggle. I have used a new chain, and it runs and cuts very well, with the chain staying at the correct tension. So in short, a chainsaw is not a Formula 1 car, so don't treat it as such! Much fun has been had....

Thanks, Steve