How Do I Get Linkages Off The Carb?

[edju1958]

I've got another 360 that I bought about a yr.ago.The saw's in really grear shape & when I first got it last yr.I just put fuel in it & it took off running.I had it out cutting shortly after I got it & it suddenly took off at WOT.I suspected it was either the impulse line or the intake boot that went bad.I pulled the saw out again today after it'd been sitting for almost a whole yr.It started up & ran great & I was test cutting on an oak log (wow,can that saw cut,it's rigt there with my C-71!) & it took off at WOT again.I immediately hit the switch,but it wouldn't shut off right away.The switch must be going bad.I started to pull things apart,got the carb bolts out,fuel line & impulse line disconnected.I'm having a problem disconnecting the choke & throttle linkages.Do I need to disconnect them back in the throttler handle & then disconnect from the carb?

                                                                                   Ed

[edju1958]

I managed to get the carb off from the linkages.Now I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH GETTING THE TOP HANDLE & TANK ASSEMBLY OFF.I removed 3 isolator pins,the FW cover,the carry handle,& the 2 small screws in the air box.It seems to me that tere should be 4 isolator pins,but it's been so long since I pulled a 360 apart.If there are indeed supposed to be 4 isolator pins,then I'm screwed because there must be one broken off & that's what's holding the handle assembly from coming off.

                                                                                           Ed

[blythkd]

Aug 10, 2019 12:56:44 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

I managed to get the carb off from the linkages.Now I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH GETTING THE TOP HANDLE & TANK ASSEMBLY OFF.I removed 3 isolator pins,the FW cover,the carry handle,& the 2 small screws in the air box.It seems to me that tere should be 4 isolator pins,but it's been so long since I pulled a 360 apart.If there are indeed supposed to be 4 isolator pins,then I'm screwed because there must be one broken off & that's what's holding the handle assembly from coming off.

                                                                                           Ed

There's 4 isolator pins.  I'm sure you found the 2 up by the carb.  There's 2 down low in front, one on each side that are directly across from each other.  If a pin is broken off it won't keep you from pulling the saw apart as the pin part that breaks off will just be buried inside the rubber isolator.  You don't need the FW cover or the handlebar off to split the saw but if they're already off, no problem.

If you have the carb off the rest of the checklist is: 

The 2 screws in the bottom of the airbox then the round metal carb adapter will need to be pushed down out of the airbox as it comes apart.

The 4 isolator mount screws.

The bottom brace that mounts to the back handle with one screw and bottom of the fuel tank with 2 screws.

If it has a bumper spike, take it off.

Once everything is loose, hold the engine down with one hand and pick up on the back handle with your other hand and shove it forward.  The rubber mounts can be stuck pretty good so it could take a pretty good shove.  After it comes forward a few inches, you have an oil line to unhook then it's all free.

If you still have trouble, just shout back.  Good luck.

[edju1958]

I did manage to get the handle assembly off te engine before I read te reply,but thanks anyway Brent.I think the 4th pin is just gone missing because I only took 3 out.I'll have to see about getting a replacement one.It's been so long since I did a 360,but it's coming back to me now.Is there any particular trick with the garter spring?I do remember that it was a real PITA to get it back on the boot.Should I put te boot on & then try putting te spring on,or should I put the spring on ther boot first,then put te boot on the engine?

                                                                                    Ed

[blythkd]

Aug 10, 2019 22:15:02 GMT -5 edju1958 said:

I did manage to get the handle assembly off te engine before I read te reply,but thanks anyway Brent.I think the 4th pin is just gone missing because I only took 3 out.I'll have to see about getting a replacement one.It's been so long since I did a 360,but it's coming back to me now.Is there any particular trick with the garter spring?I do remember that it was a real PITA to get it back on the boot.Should I put te boot on & then try putting te spring on,or should I put the spring on ther boot first,then put te boot on the engine?

                                                                                    Ed

The garter spring can be a pain for a lot of folks that don't mess with them every day, I know that.  The process that works well for me everytime is to put the spring on the boot, work the boot down on the manifold, and yes the spring will at least partially come out of the groove on the boot.  I work the tip of a small pocket type screwdriver down between the spring and the boot in the are where the spring is still in the groove of the boot.  Then holding the screwdriver in one place, I grab the boot with my other hand and spin the boot. As you rotate the boot, the tip of the screwdriver puts the spring right in place.  As a test, I pick the engine up by the boot to make sure it seated properly. 

I made a video of this entire process last winter but I was not impressed with the camera work.  It wasn't close up enough to see any detail.  The main thing that I wanted to show was how to rotate the carb up and off of the linkages as that seems to be the part that most people struggle with.   I've seen linkages bent up pretty bad before when folks tried this repair at home.  But once you know how it's done, it literally takes seconds to remove the carb. 

I've probably performed this repair more than any other single Homelite chainsaw repair.  I still have guys that bring 360's to my house for me to put a boot in them so I keep some on hand.  I recall the first one I did when I had just started in the shop as a teenager.  I'm pretty sure it took at least half a day by the time I diagnosed the issue, figured out how to get to the boot and finished putting it all back together.  I actually checked the clock one time a few years ago and I put in a new boot in 10 minutes so I figured it would be nice to share some of my tips and pointers.  I just didn't like the video.  I need to con someone into standing there with the camera while I work so they can zoom in on the detail when needed.

[edju1958]

That's great advice Brent! Tanks a heap! I'll give your technique a try.Unfortunately today I won't be able to get to the 360,but Mon.looks like a winner.

                                                                                 Ed

[edju1958]

Brent,I followed your advice on putting the spring on the boot & it worked slicker than snot on a door knob.Now I need to know how to replace the oil line as long as I have the saw apart.I'd be foolish at this point not to.You were right about the isolator pin too,it was broken off in the bushing.The bushing has a crack in it too,I'm thinking of replacing that as well.

                                                                                   Ed

[blythkd]

Yeah anytime you have a 360 split, it’s a good time for rubber mounts unless they look really good.
I pull oil lines into the tank the same way I pull new fuel lines in. I cut the line off at an angle leaving about a half inch long tapered tail. I hook a small piece of stiff wire through the tail about a half inch then bend the wire over double and flatten it out with pliers. If the wire is about a foot long that gives you plenty to poke through the hole in the tank and out the fill cap hole, then pull the line in. I lube the leading end of the new line before I pull it. That’s my process but I’m always watching for other folks’ ideas. Ideally I like to learn something new every day. Makes it seem like the day was worthwhile.

Edit - Just happened to think, were you just asking how to gain access to the oil line? If so, you have to remove the handlebar and bracket to replace the oil line.

[edju1958]

Thanks Brent! I wasn't sure if that was a one piece line,or if it hooked onto a barb in the tank.I already have the handle off,so it' should be good to go.I might get at it tomorrow,not sure.I've gotta wait on 2 bushings for the anti-vibe isolators,there are 2 that are cracked.I don't want to put those back in the saw,it could be why one of te pins broke.

                                                                               Ed

[blythkd]

I usually install the bushings as a full set but I’ve replaced 2 in a pinch. I’d put the 2 new ones in the front positions because those take the most abuse. Plus if a pin wears through a rubber bushing in the rear 2 positions by the carb, those won’t wear a hole into your fuel tank! And they’re the easiest ones to keep an eye on for wear too.

I really like to use the 70622 bushing because they’re firmer and more durable but somehow I’ve accumulated quite a pile of the softer 70623 bushings so I’ve been using some of them lately.

[edju1958]

Te 2 front ones were cracked & one of the pins in the front was broken too.I've heard this happens due to pinching & twisting the bar.I ordered the wrong part,so I'll take my parts 360 apart tomorrow & see how the rear 2 bushings are by the air box,if they're good then I'll put those in the good 360.It seems I just can't catch a break with this saw.

      The only thing that went right today was I put a new duck bill in my XL-923.Lol

                                                                                        Ed

[edju1958]

I finally got all the parts I needed in the mail today & the 360 is all back together.The other question I was about top ask here is how do I get the linkages back on the carb.Lol After I wrestled with the linkages & trying to feed the impulse line up through the hole,those 2 things took the major amt.of time to get the saw back together.This is actually my 1st 360 that I did solo.I had help with my previous 360,& that one didn't work out so well because after we got it all back together we found that the carb had a cracked fuel inlet barb.Now that I know the right cuss words to use I should pull that carb off & put a metal fuel inlet barb in it.Unfortunately I couldn't fire up the 360 that this post was about because I have no gas to mix up for fuel.I'll remedy that soon.

                                                             Ed