|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 13, 2019 10:06:34 GMT -5
I've got 2 starters for a C5 & neither one will work to turn the engine over.I've been told by Chainsawlady that te starter pawls need to be ground & have the rounded edges taken off & they should grab in the cup to start again.I've read about members here doing this,but I have no idea as to how much to grind & at what angle.Any help is greatly appreciated. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 13, 2019 12:26:33 GMT -5
Sawnami posted some pics on this, search his posts.
|
|
|
|
Post by ronaldt on Jul 13, 2019 22:49:41 GMT -5
I've also seen grooves scribed into the cup for the pawls to catch on.
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 13, 2019 23:31:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by sawnami on Jul 18, 2019 5:56:29 GMT -5
Joyce messaged me about this post to see if I could give any input. Greg posted the link to the previous discussion I see.
The only thing that I can add is that I bought a saw a while back that the previous owner had installed two small pop rivets into the worn groove in the starter cup 180 degrees apart. This worked amazingly well. The rivet heads were just tall enough to be flush with the original ID of the cup and provided a good anchor point for the friction shoe. I've also tried aluminum brazing the groove in the cup to restore it's ID but it takes longer to come up with a finished product.
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 18, 2019 8:15:56 GMT -5
A big thank you to Joyce & Sawnami for helping out on this matter.I'm going to visit Mr.Johnson next week & I'll take te C5 with me to see if we can get the recoil working properly again.I know he has the pawls,he might even have the friction washers as well. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 27, 2019 19:42:38 GMT -5
I went to see Mr.Johnson today & get the parts I needed for the C5 recoil.As it turned out all we had to do was flip the pawls over & it's grabbing in the cup beautifully.I immediately checked it for spark & it had real nice spark.I can't wait to put a little fuel in the carb tomorrow & listen to it fire up.While I was there I bought a like new Carlton hard nose 25 in.bar too. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 28, 2019 20:44:13 GMT -5
I got to hear the saw fire up today,but I had some work to do.I thought we had the recoil issue squared away yesterday,but that wasn't the case.I had a look at the starter cup & found that the one on the good saw was worn smooth & I could just catch a fingernail on the slightest groove that was worn into it.For lack of proper terminology,the knurling was worn away.I examined the cup on the parts saw & found that it still had the knurling in it,so I switched the cups & there was an immediate difference.The recoil catches & turns the engine over every pull. The next problem I noticed was the throttle trigger won't retract properly.Upon further examination of this problem I found that the spring that rests against the trigger & causes it to retract is either unhooked ,or broken off where it's supposed to rest against the trigger & cause it to retract.On the right side of the handle there's a screw that's blocked access to by the spark plug shield.My question here is how do I replace the throttle return spring on the trigger without having to take the handle assembly off.I went through this with a SXL when trying to repair the oil discharge line & ended up tearing the cylinder gasket.If this must also happen on this saw,I'll drill a hole through the spark plug shield or remove the shield entirely.I also don't know if it's adviseable to use the spring from the parts saw,or if it's better to try to get a new one & install it. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 29, 2019 13:08:37 GMT -5
Since I didn't get any replies,I took matters into my own hands as usual & pulled the handle assembly off both saws to see what was going on with the throttle return spring.I thought the spring was broken or unhooked,but there was so much crap packed up in there that the trigger couldn't return.I dug it out with a small screwdriver & sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner up in the housing to dissolve the stuff on the spring.Now it's working like it should.There wasn't much to take the handle assembly off.I took out the 4 screws that hold the reed assembly to the saw,the rear brace handle screw that attaches to the handle,one small screw on the left rear by the switch,two recoil screws on the upper right,& disconnect the fuel line.I replaced the fuel line too,the one that was on the saw disintegrated. After lunch I'll mix up some fuel & see if it'll start & run without rebuilding the carb (highly doubtful). Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 29, 2019 17:58:53 GMT -5
I was right about the saw not running on it's own without rebuilding the carb.I pulled the carb earlier & then pulled it apart.The diaphragms are pathetic & I understand why it wouldn't pull fuel.I know I have an HL RK88 kit around here somewhere,I just need to locate it. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 30, 2019 16:53:53 GMT -5
I found the kit last night & rebuilt the carb today.I noticed a slight difference between the two HL carbs.One is a 140A,the other is a 141B.On the older carb (141A) there were small black almost ball shaped objects that the needles fit through,they were called needle packing.On the 141B it didn't have this "packing".I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there? Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 30, 2019 21:37:49 GMT -5
I found the kit last night & rebuilt the carb today.I noticed a slight difference between the two HL carbs.One is a 140A,the other is a 141B.On the older carb (141A) there were small black almost ball shaped objects that the needles fit through,they were called needle packing.On the 141B it didn't have this "packing".I'm wondering if it's supposed to be there? Ed
I can look later at diagrams and find out for you. |
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 30, 2019 22:29:45 GMT -5
Good luck on finding a diagram or IPL on an HL 141A or 141B.I went on the Tillotson site & they only have 129E,132H,&166B listed.Anything else is higher up,but through my investigation they all take the same O ring packing - part # 44-270 & the small washer - part # 78A-256.I found a place to buy those parts cheaper than dirt - Small Engine Pro Dealer.To replace everything it'll only cost a couple bux.That includes the inlet tension spring (more commonly called the metering spring) that went flying & I found it when I stepped on it.Needless to say it was toast..
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Jul 30, 2019 23:19:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jul 31, 2019 8:47:43 GMT -5
Thanks Leon! The assembly is pretty much all the same,but there looks to be a subtle difference in the needle adjustment packing,also it gives the part #'s as Homelite part #'s & not Tillotson part #'s. I've found that the letter suffix on a carb is usually so subtle that one can't really tell the difference.For example,on a carb with the suffix "A" there might only be one hole on the throttle shaft for the accelerator linkage to hook into & a carb with a letter suffix of "B" will possibly have the same throttle hook up,but with many different adjustment holes in it for different applications.Also,the inlet barb size might've been the only change. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by kysawman on Aug 1, 2019 8:58:13 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Aug 1, 2019 10:45:48 GMT -5
Thanks Jasper.How's the engine & does it have a drive case cover. Ed? |
|
|
|
Post by kysawman on Aug 1, 2019 10:58:36 GMT -5
The guy I got it from said it ran till the rope broke. It turns over and feels like it has compression. I have not fixed the rope and checked spark. There was no drive cover because they had the partner cut off saw arm on it. They also cut out the tank so they could get to the fuel line without removing the tank. I doesn’t look like it leaks, just ugly. If you want I can get more info on it when I go to my storage unit this weekend.
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Aug 1, 2019 12:33:38 GMT -5
Obviously they didn't think about removing the rear handle assembly to replace the fuel line which is the simplest thing to do,I only had to remove a few screws to take it off exposing the fuel barb. I could use the fuel tank cover from my parts C5 if it'll fit.I'd have to see about getting a drive case cover.Yeah,if you don't mind looking into it more Jasper,tat'd be great. Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by kysawman on Aug 1, 2019 13:16:47 GMT -5
No problem I will get the full scoop on it this weekend.
|
|
