|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 11, 2019 15:05:14 GMT -5
Forgive me if I stumble and make some mistakes posting, new to this forum.
I have a Super 2 that was bought by me new in July of 1975. It has served me pretty good over the years.
It has been getting hard to start and decided I would tear it apart and see if there are any major problems.
Other than the hard starting it was once started smoking bad and I see from some reading here that there is a good probability the "Duck Bill valve" in oil tank could be the cause.
Wondering if anyone can suggest a good place to get parts for these saws that don't charge so much I would be better off buy a new saw?
About the only things I see I probably need right off are carb gaskets, oil pump gaskets, maybe oil pump diaphragm(not sure how stiff they are when new) crankshaft seals(they are around 44 years old!) and of course the Duck Bill Valves(there is one in the fuel system I'm sure). fuel/oil line I know I can get local.
Thanks for listening to me
Ken
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Apr 11, 2019 18:33:26 GMT -5
First off,Welcome aboard Ken! A lot of people here get their parts from Chainsawlady (Joyce),& Leon,our administrator here has a store/repair shop.He also has IPL's for free to download for anyone who needs them.Sometimes these fine folks don't have what we need,so Ebay is another choice.There are other parts suppliers as well,all you need to do is ask. If your saw still has good compression,then I don't see why you shouldn't put a few bucks into it after almost 45 yrs.of reliable service.The smoking of the saw is definitely a sign of duck bill that needs to be replaced.If you shop around you can pick one up for as couple bucks or less.The carb kit can be found on Ebay for a few dollars as well.The previous parts people might have the seals you need,if not,again Ebay.The oil pump diaphragm should not be stiff at all,it should be pliable.I'd think you should be able to get your saw back in A-1 shape for around $40 (ball park figure).
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Apr 11, 2019 19:37:47 GMT -5
Welcome to HoH!
Post up some pictures when you can (we love pictures!) the Super 2 is one of my favorite saws, I have 3 of them.
I'd check out Leon's site (https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com and grab a parts diagram as Ed suggested. That way you can get the parts numbers for what you're needing. Between Joyce (chainsawlady) and Leon, you should have most of the parts you will need.
First thing I would do is see what carburetor your saw has on it (they used several over the life of the saw) so you can pick up a rebuild kit. I'd recommend replacing the fuel lines and filter as well.
As Ed said the duckbills are notorious for falling off and causing the saw to suck in oil to the crankcase. This also reduces the amount of oil getting to the bar which can seem like the oiler is not working, when it actually is.
I've never replaced crank seals on any of mine. I don't know if I would replace necessarily unless you suspect them to be bad.
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 12, 2019 7:12:32 GMT -5
Thanks to both for the fast replies.
I have sent a message to Joyce to see what she has and once I hear from her I'll give Leon a shout!
A little info about myself, I spent 45 years repairing off-road equipment in a local stone quarry so pulling wrenches is not new to me. Then again those were bigger wrenches than what are used on Super 2's!
Back when we decided to install a woodstove in the old farm house we rented wife at that time went to locally owned farm store to get a saw. As we were not going to be cutting huge trees she and owner settled on a Homelite XL with I believe a 12 inch bar.
After it was bought and paid for the owner of store was giving her the demo of how to start and use it.
Well the XL would not run and it was the only one he had on the shelf. So to keep customer happy he picked up the Super 2 and after it started just fine said, "Here same price".
|
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Apr 12, 2019 7:18:19 GMT -5
Cool story about when customer service was a top priority.Now if you tell the owner of a saw shop that your saw won't start theytreat you like you have mental deficits.
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 27, 2019 18:44:46 GMT -5
Well I'm just stopping by to try to figure out how to post better and post pictures that flicker site is a real chore and I have been doing the online thing since when Windows 98 was the latest and greatest thing out there! And right now I see no place to add a link to a picture!
Top of this box says "quick reply" is there a different hidden box some where?
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 27, 2019 18:53:52 GMT -5
Okay now I might see the NON quick reply place. It's way up at the top of the thread unless there is some other place it seems like a pain if replying to a long thread to have to scroll all the way back to the beginning. Maybe I just don't see it any place else! Now to see if I can manage to link to a picture.  Did that work?  Guess not! One more try? Nope! Well a third try: ![]() |
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Apr 27, 2019 22:07:31 GMT -5
Ken, to make sure you are getting to the right place, below the most recent post in the thread you should see a "Quick Reply" box below. At the far top right there should be a button that says "Reply". Clicking this will take you to the full reply screen.
From there you should see a button near the upper right that says "add attachment". It will bring up a popup screen and allow you to attach a photo to your post.
You can also choose to use a third party host (Imgur and Flikr are common ones), and if so you will want to copy/paste the "BBCode" link into your post.
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 28, 2019 16:28:54 GMT -5
OK got to this page thanks to Rowdy now to try a picture post:  IMG_0868
OMG it actually worked! Probably obvious that the picture is of the oil line routing on the Super 2 as I was taking it apart. If anyone is reading this would the hose that is the closest to the filler cap be the one the duckbill valve should be on the end of? 99% sure that is the right place but somehow the duckbill and connector went AWOL on my saw and I am the only person who used it since new in 1975! |
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Apr 28, 2019 16:36:43 GMT -5
Why not one more try on pictures:  IMG_0863 by Ken, on Flickr Here's a shot with the carb and carb link in place, yes I have new air filter ready to go on! |
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Apr 28, 2019 16:49:29 GMT -5
Glad to see you got them working!
Yes, the line closest to the fill cap should have a duckbill. On my saws the duckbill sits just below the fill cap. They're known to fall off and end up in the bottom of the tank, which is probably where yours is unless you've already checked. The other line that goes into the oil tank is the inlet line and should go to the bottom of the tank.
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Jul 2, 2019 13:04:13 GMT -5
Well a little follow up on this super 2.
Other than the problem of not starting after worked hard it was doing a good job until one day.
That day I had cut a few logs off to fire wood length and shut the saw off to move the chucks out of the way. Then when I tried starting the saw it pulled over very hard. I was thinking that it had seized. So I got out the other saw a Poulan 2150 to finish up.
Next day I decided to see if I could figure out anything on the Super 2. What I did find is instead of the engine seizing what had happened is the retaining ring for the clutch drum had come off and the drum was half way off the clutch shoes. I had not really liked that snap ring that replaced the original as it was a bit lighter than the original one that I had to destroy to get off as there was no holes or easy way to spread it.
Now I spent 40+ years working on heavy equipment so dealing with snap rings is not something new to me but that original ring always was a fight and I often bought them in pairs so as to not have to worry about trying to salvage the old one.
So now I have two or more problems. First when the snap ring failed I lost the washer that went between the ring and the clutch drum. Second and more serious when the ring failed and the drum was moving around on the shaft it did not help the groove on the crankshaft one bit. I'm not sure if even one of the original retaining rings would hold long term.
As this saw was a working saw and not a display item on a shelf it is of no use to me as it is and not sure I want to spend the money it would cost to replace the crank assembly and try to find an original retainer if any still exist!
What I'm thinking may sound insane or get me flamed and kicked off this forum. I am leaning towards the idea of finding or even making a washer a bit heavier than the thin original one that holds the clutch drum on and tack weld it on the crank. Yes I know that sounds very crude and I would not be able to replace the clutch drum or other parts but if it will hold I might have a working saw again!
As I think I have only replaced the clutch drum maybe 3 times since the saw was new in 1975 and the drum on there now only has a few hours running on it it might outlast my ability to run a chainsaw.
Let the flames start, I'm a big boy and can take it!
|
|
|
|
Post by 5terrysupersaws on Jul 2, 2019 13:41:33 GMT -5
#69138 -clutch thrust washer available @ Leon's
#69743 -retaining ring available @ eBay
If the ring groove is completely buggered, suggest getting a new washer as above and tack welding
a nut to the end of the crankshaft... which could be easily removed if need be.
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 2, 2019 15:05:50 GMT -5
Any pics of the crankshaft?
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 2, 2019 15:24:24 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Jul 2, 2019 15:25:47 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by rowdy235 on Jul 2, 2019 15:27:24 GMT -5
Pics would be helpful. I can't imagine not being able to repair the crank (eg some work with a cutoff wheel to bring the groove back) enough to hold a snap ring.
|
|
|
|
Post by jerseyhighlander on Jul 2, 2019 16:39:27 GMT -5
I would suggest a nice precision hand file or needle file and you should be able to restore what is there. You can post the gory pictures of the damage, we can take it.
|
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Jul 2, 2019 19:04:32 GMT -5
I would suggest a nice precision hand file or needle file and you should be able to restore what is there. You can post the gory pictures of the damage, we can take it. Actually did a little work with a fine file and it doesn't look as bad as I thought it was and with the stronger retaining ring of the original I have faith it will hold. I did find a washer that is a little thicker than the original but there is still clearance to let the clutch hub spin free also have another that is close to the OEM thickness so I think I can make one of them work. Thanks guys! Now if I could figure out why that dang Poulan decided to not run at idle speed all of a sudden I would be happy! |
|
|
|
Post by ken8831200 on Jul 3, 2019 12:02:26 GMT -5
Decided to buy one of the right washers as the thinnest one I had was a little too thick. Figured I'd try Ebay and this was one of the things that came up under the 69138 number:  Think I will go with the one Leon has, even if shipping is a little more than the part itself! |
|
Guess not!
