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Post by dangercat on Apr 11, 2019 16:43:13 GMT -5
I am not familiar with your exact application but I have had good luck using 3M Trim Adheasive. It is a contact cement available at autoparts stores. It works every time for me on rubbery stuff. It is not structural, it has some flex left after it has dried. I'll have to look into that! |
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Post by dangercat on Apr 29, 2019 21:25:04 GMT -5
I have reached a standoff with this saw, I cannot get the flywheel off. I have the Homelite tool as well as other flywheel pullers, but cannot get this thing to budge. The nut is off just fyi. I have heated it, used copious amounts of penetrating fluid, left the puller on with tensions for a few days but still cannot win. I set that project aside as I will probably just utilize the .45acp method if it keeps beating me! Am I missing something?
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Post by scotts2000 on Apr 29, 2019 21:50:55 GMT -5
I will get rocks thrown at me for saying this and please do so at your own risk...but have never been beat by this method: thread nut on crank to protect threads ...use a flat bar in a rag between housing flywheel and apply solid pressure and one good whack with a hammer on end of crank and she should pop.. I have used this when the pullers and other methods have failed.. If your careful no other damage should occur.. I am well aware of how it is not a good idea to hit crankshaft snout with hammer.. And no one likes the idea of a prybar on there saw.... In all cases the proper puller with impact usually does it... The sudden impact is what pops the tapered seat.. So if you havnt tried puller with impact i suggest that first.... Works well with clutch too.
Hope you get it off soon. Scott
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Post by undee70ss on Apr 30, 2019 1:24:25 GMT -5
I will get rocks thrown at me for saying this and please do so at your own risk...but have never been beat by this method: thread nut on crank to protect threads ...use a flat bar in a rag between housing flywheel and apply solid pressure and one good whack with a hammer on end of crank and she should pop.. I have used this when the pullers and other methods have failed.. If your careful no other damage should occur.. I am well aware of how it is not a good idea to hit crankshaft snout with hammer.. And no one likes the idea of a prybar on there saw.... In all cases the proper puller with impact usually does it... The sudden impact is what pops the tapered seat.. So if you havnt tried puller with impact i suggest that first.... Works well with clutch too. Hope you get it off soon. Scott Thats the same method I use. The only thing I do different is double nut the crank and tighten the nuts against each other, making sure the top nut is higher than the crank. I jacked up the threads on a B&S lawnmower engine once, because maybe I hit it to hard and it deformed the threads on both the nut and crank. |
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Post by edju1958 on Apr 30, 2019 8:10:32 GMT -5
I agree with Greg & Scott.Usually while you have tension on the FW with a puller,a good rap should make it pop.I had an SEZ that did the same thing to me,only I couldn't get a puller on it (I didn't have the dinky little bolts).Finally I gave up on it & set it aside,but put penetrant in the key way slot first.It sat for about 2 weeks,then I picked the saw up & put some more heat on it & gave it a good rap on the FW & it popped.All of that only to find out it had a bad beraring.Lol Ed
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Post by dangercat on Apr 30, 2019 12:08:25 GMT -5
Gentleman, y'all are good luck charms. Got motivated and pulled the box down with the 750 and figured I'd give it another good ole college try. Well last time about a week ago I had sprayed a lot of penetrating fluid on the crank and this time when I started to run down the puller it just popped, with no tension on it! Guess the fluid, HOH luck and the good Lord were on my side today. Now I just gotta get it cleaned, blasted and start the painting process! Thanks for all the input gents!
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Post by onlyhomelites on Apr 30, 2019 23:51:35 GMT -5
Glad she finally came loose!
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