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Post by jgudde on Feb 11, 2019 13:22:02 GMT -5
OK I am always confused on the mix ratios and which ones are richer and leaner.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Feb 11, 2019 15:59:29 GMT -5
In a 2-stroke mix ratio, the bigger number is the parts of gasoline to each part of oil. So 16:1 has way more oil than 50:1. As sweepleader was explaining, when you change a ratio drastically you'll haveto adjust he carburetor to compensate. A carb tuned for 32:1 will be much too rich for 50:1. Vice versa, a 50:1 carb setting will be much too lean for 32:1.
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Post by jgudde on Feb 15, 2019 11:18:46 GMT -5
I am still have trouble with the clutch coming loose. I have not got the carb tuned yet and after revving the engine when it abruptly stops running the clutch comes loose and hits the cover. Do I need to lock tite the clutch to make it hold?
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Post by blythkd on Feb 17, 2019 10:00:56 GMT -5
Did you ever cut wood with it? Self tightening in a cut is the only way I've ever tightened a clutch back down and I've never seen one come loose after that. I can't imagine how it would keep spinning off after cutting with it.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 17, 2019 10:22:38 GMT -5
I' have a similar situation with anSXL.It's a strong runner,but somehow the threads are stripped on the end of the crank,it won't hold the nut on there for anything.I'm wondering if the threads for your clutch on the crankshaft aren't worn down or stripped.That'd explain why your clutch won't stay on. Ed
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Post by fixit62 on Sept 17, 2021 18:21:24 GMT -5
DM 50 Point Gap for Flywheel?
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Post by fixit62 on Sept 17, 2021 18:23:03 GMT -5
It sounds to me like your ignition system is points & condenser rather than electronic ignition.If you could post some pics of the saw & of the ID tags on it,that'd help to pin point the yr.of production,then that in turn will tell you exactly what you have.If you're unable to post pics,just tell us the UT# & serial #.Someone who is more knowledgeable than me will tell you. Ed
What is the Point Gap Between Flywheel?DM 50
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matt540
Collector
Homelite 540
Posts: 60
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Post by matt540 on Dec 6, 2021 11:38:37 GMT -5
I just picked up a Super E-Z Automatic with Homelite case. UT # 10505B Ser.# 5E1610016. From what I could decifer from the date lists and I could be wrong, I think it is 1983, 161st day of the year (Jun 10th) and 16th unit built that day. It too is suffering from no spark. I haven't torn into it yet, just cleaned the outside off a bit, took off the air filter cover and pulled the plug to check for spark. I will be getting an order together from Leon for parts. How hard is it to find a new air filter for this model? The felt looks good so I might just clean it and call it good. I will have to read more about this little saw. Surprisingly the saw was complete and it appears to be in decent shape. Hopefully with a little wrenching on it I can get it to throw wood chips again!
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Post by blythkd on Dec 6, 2021 12:20:58 GMT -5
An "E" model will be electronic ignition so your saw likely suffers from the blue coil of death syndrome. They were no good by design and it's not a matter of if they will fail, it's just about when they will fail. Plenty of posts on here about baking them to bring them back to life. I think that's a mixed bag, some run ok again for some time, some fail again in fairly short order.
If the air filter center grommet hasn't turned to goo, then the filters are typically ok to keep using. 65178 for a new one if I recall correctly.
If your saw still has the old black fuel line and it's sat around for some time, good chance that fuel line will be cracked behind the starter cover. It's just 4 screws, take it off and have a look.
Most old SEZ's aren't tough to get back up and running if they have spark. Usually just carb kit, fuel line, fuel filter and a spark plug and you're good. But that coil problem is a bummer. There's another thread going where Ed and Leon are discussing availability of replacement coils.
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matt540
Collector
Homelite 540
Posts: 60
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Post by matt540 on Dec 6, 2021 14:03:22 GMT -5
blythkd
The air filter grommet is perfect. It does have the baby blue colored coil on it. I will most likely try baking the coil to see if it works. I plan on replacing the fuel and oil lines, carb rebuild, etc. (typical long forgotten maintenance).
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matt540
Collector
Homelite 540
Posts: 60
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Post by matt540 on Dec 21, 2021 10:14:15 GMT -5
I received my new coil yesterday from Standard Magneto and couldn't wait to see spark. I put it on the saw and used my drill to spin it over. Nothing. I thought "what the hell? Did I get a bad new mag?" It is blue and looks exactly like the original only cleaner and unused. I pulled it off, cleaned the mounting posts on the side of the cylinder, cleaned the magnets on the flywheel with scotchbrite, reconnected the on/off switch and put a new spark plug on it, still nothing. I took a business card and gapped the coil, still nothing. I had the sparkplug laying on the handle where the paint was missing when I thought "make it touch the cylinder to ground". That was it- got spark! I am not certain why the plug wasn't sparking on the metal handle, my only thought was maybe it had to do with the parts being painted and not grounding to the engine, oh well its sparks with the new coil so all is not lost. I received my package from Leon as well so I have work waiting for me after Christmas when I have a rainy day to tinker!
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 9:17:17 GMT -5
To the original OP: You need to review how to properly adjust the carb jets for rich or what is sometimes termed 4 cycling sound. Briefly what you do is adjust the H jet as far out CCW as possible and the saw will sputter when throttled out of the cut and load up and not sputter when in a heavy cut with a sharp chain. You can find videos on-line to hear the sound the saw produces. Also keep the L jet at the ccw position and still get a good idle. Sometimes the jet setting are very critical where a 1/4 to 1/2 turn is difference in rich and lean.
Also on the EZ that use the two 5/16 head clutch PLATE screws. You need to remove both of them and clean the thread and use some green or blue thread locker. If you don't they will vibrate loose and back out and cut a hole in the aluminum side plate. I sometimes grind down the thickness of their heads if their clearance is really close to the side plate. NOTE: that I'm talking about the TWO clutch SIDE PLATE SCREWS. A heads up hint that they are cutting into the side plate on the clutch side is you will see a slight ring starting to appear on the aluminum side plate as you are using the saw.
You clutch coming loose is due to you not getting it tight enough when installing. Be careful if not using the proper tightening tool, striking the LEFT hand threaded with a hammer and drift will break and ear off of the type that does not have the springs. If you will just get it snug/tight and put the saw to a log cut it gets tighter and won't come off if all is correct.. You need to be careful because a clutch can come off and at you if running the saw WO the side plate on.
You may have to keep a eye and ear open for NEW points. Having to file both sets of points may not get a reliable run and removing and re-installing those flywheels constantly is not a good thing.
Use the rope (ROUND COTTON BRAIDED ROPE) into the spark plug hole to lock the crank when torqueing the flywheel and clutch. Install the rope when the piston is above the exhaust port so as to keep the piston from cocking and not getting rope pinched into the exhaust port. Remove the muffler at first to get the hang of such.
Them little EZ's are worth spending some time on, they are good strong saws when all is correct and built for the long haul with just a little bit of TLC.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 9:28:24 GMT -5
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Post by onlyhomelites on Dec 24, 2021 11:33:30 GMT -5
Thanks for linking to that thread; it's good to have a known fit for the original lamination. I'll be interested to see how this mod works out for you long term. That's almost certainly a Chinese produced coil and their electronics aren't exactly known for long term reliability. The overseas reproduction coils for the Super 2 style Phelon ignitions have a failure rate that rivals the blue Prestolite coils. FWIW, I've had plenty of baked coils last for years, so I can't consider it a waste of time. The only cost there is whatever electricity it takes to power the toaster oven for 90 minutes. Many of the 40 year old coils are still going strong, so I wouldn't totally write them off as an option.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 16:06:15 GMT -5
Thanks for linking to that thread; it's good to have a known fit for the original lamination. I'll be interested to see how this mod works out for you long term. That's almost certainly a Chinese produced coil and their electronics aren't exactly known for long term reliability. The overseas reproduction coils for the Super 2 style Phelon ignitions have a failure rate that rivals the blue Prestolite coils. FWIW, I've had plenty of baked coils last for years, so I can't consider it a waste of time. The only cost there is whatever electricity it takes to power the toaster oven for 90 minutes. Many of the 40 year old coils are still going strong, so I wouldn't totally write them off as an option. I've been running the modded EZ saw quite a lot cutting fire wood. The saw starts easy and runs strong. I was concerned like you about the mod's long term reliability and went ahead and made up a spare modded magneto as a replacement. will only take me few minutes to swap in the replacement if ever needed. I now trust this mod more so than a baked coil because I've tried the baked magneto restore in the past with no long term luck and my old prestolite electronic mag coil did not re-store using the bake method. Only time will tell but so far it's doing good. (I'm testing right now because usually when I brag on something it has a tendency to fail fast)I will let you know if it ever has a failure due to loss of spark.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 16:12:23 GMT -5
If anyone has any of the Blue coils of death electronic Wico or Prestolite magnetos laying next to the trash can around I would be interested in them for the laminations cores?
Also some of the electronic Prestolites magnetos are white instead of Blue.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 18:12:59 GMT -5
Also you can use a Stihl Module Stihl #0000 400 1300 Module on the Homie Wico/Prestolite core if you are concerned about the Anzac being made in China. The Stihl coil is not as easily installed (pressed on and off the core) due to the layout of the kill wire tab but I installed one as a spare. I do not know where the Stihl coil is made? Stihl seems to be a little more reliable name but using that part number will also get a lower priced CLONE coil made in CHINA. A guy asked me few days ago if I had any idea where he could buy some stick on decals about 1 inch x 1 inch that say MADE IN THE USA.I told him to check on-line but keep a heads up and look close because they might be MADE IN CHINA in small print.
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Post by edju1958 on Dec 24, 2021 18:41:38 GMT -5
Even if the Anzac modules have a high failure rate (I haven't heard this,just the contrary),you'd have to go through 3 of them @ $16 ea.& still have a few bucks leftover as compared to one of the new blue modules.I have 2 of the blue coils here that I'm not sure if they're good or not & an Anzac module as well.I tried changing out the cores with an XL-12 module & it didn't end up so well.The core got all fubared & that was the end of that experiment.I had those blue modules out just a bit over a week ago & they disappeared,can't find the dang things.
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okie
Saw Builder
Posts: 201
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Post by okie on Dec 24, 2021 19:35:12 GMT -5
Even if the Anzac modules have a high failure rate (I haven't heard this,just the contrary),you'd have to go through 3 of them @ $16 ea.& still have a few bucks leftover as compared to one of the new blue modules.I have 2 of the blue coils here that I'm not sure if they're good or not & an Anzac module as well.I tried changing out the cores with an XL-12 module & it didn't end up so well.The core got all fubared & that was the end of that experiment.I had those blue modules out just a bit over a week ago & they disappeared,can't find the dang things. Learn something NEW almost every day on this site. Had to look up the meaning of that word fubared. I'll add that one into my redneck dictionary and use it quite often.
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Post by xl130 on Dec 24, 2021 21:32:07 GMT -5
Even if the Anzac modules have a high failure rate (I haven't heard this,just the contrary),you'd have to go through 3 of them @ $16 ea.& still have a few bucks leftover as compared to one of the new blue modules.I have 2 of the blue coils here that I'm not sure if they're good or not & an Anzac module as well.I tried changing out the cores with an XL-12 module & it didn't end up so well.The core got all fubared & that was the end of that experiment.I had those blue modules out just a bit over a week ago & they disappeared,can't find the dang things. Learn something NEW almost every day on this site. Had to look up the meaning of that word fubared. I'll add that one into my redneck dictionary and use it quite often. Non related pointless fact : I believe the term FUBAR was used by the American Marines in WWII as a way to describe events and mental states during the war. It was also a movie in the early 2000’s based around a couple of West Coast Canadian dirt bags that drink beer every day all day.
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