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Post by jgudde on Feb 2, 2019 15:23:43 GMT -5
I inherited 2 Super EZ auto saws from my dad. Both are red&white. I thought I would try to get them running after they have set for several years. I can not get spark out of either one. Disconnected the switch on one but it made no difference. Both have a black coil that has X18050 on it. Is that coil for a points ignition or non point? How can I test the ignition to find out what is wrong? I did not want to pull flywheel if I did not have to. The flywheel has Wico stamped on it. Any ideas and help is great.
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Post by rowdy235 on Feb 2, 2019 15:53:08 GMT -5
Someone will be along who I am sure will know if that # is electronic or points. IIRC, I believe the electronic ignitions were blue (mine is blue and also electronic). Also possible somebody could have changed it over at some point. I don't know much about the electronic systems but I believe if they die, they are pretty much dead. Although I do remember something about them getting "wet" and needing to dry out, search around and you will find some hits on "baking" a coil in an oven at low temperature to dry them out.
On the other hand if it is points fired the first thing I'd do is pull the flywheel and file/gap the points. I'd be surprised if that didn't solve your issue, points tend to corrode when sitting for any period. If you dont have one, get a points (aka ignition) file from Napa, less than $2 and works great.
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 2, 2019 19:14:00 GMT -5
It sounds to me like your ignition system is points & condenser rather than electronic ignition.If you could post some pics of the saw & of the ID tags on it,that'd help to pin point the yr.of production,then that in turn will tell you exactly what you have.If you're unable to post pics,just tell us the UT# & serial #.Someone who is more knowledgeable than me will tell you. Ed
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 2, 2019 20:34:26 GMT -5
Also you can look for a wire that runs from the coil under the flywheel, that would lead to the points. No wire, no points. It might be covered with sawdust, look carefully.
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 2, 2019 20:46:26 GMT -5
I inherited 2 Super EZ auto saws from my dad. Both are red&white. I thought I would try to get them running after they have set for several years. I can not get spark out of either one. Disconnected the switch on one but it made no difference. Both have a black coil that has X18050 on it. Is that coil for a points ignition or non point? How can I test the ignition to find out what is wrong? I did not want to pull flywheel if I did not have to. The flywheel has Wico stamped on it. Any ideas and help is great. Pics? Post UT number? Red and White Super EZ's all had points. Most likely just needs points or condenser.
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Post by jgudde on Feb 4, 2019 9:30:28 GMT -5
Where do I find the UT number? The serial number tag says Homelite division of textron Model S-EZ SN 13430379
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 4, 2019 9:56:47 GMT -5
The UT # is usually found on the same tag as the serial # & is usually just above the serial#.On some older models there might not be a UT#,they just used the model#.If your saw has been sitting idle for a number of yrs.,or is in a high humidity climate,chances are that your points are tarnished & need to be cleaned.Pulling the flywheel is not a difficult process,but must be done to access the points.
Ed
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 4, 2019 11:19:40 GMT -5
Where do I find the UT number? The serial number tag says Homelite division of textron Model S-EZ SN 13430379 Yes, the saw is older before they commonly used the UT number. Your saw was built in 1971, on the 343 day of the year. It has points for sure.
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Post by jgudde on Feb 6, 2019 14:22:45 GMT -5
I pulled the flywheels and filed the points set them at .015. Put some 50:1 mix in and got both saws to start. I did have to prime with some gas in carbs. One of the saws after I got to run the clutch plate backed of the crankshaft and was dragging on the cover. I removed the cover and tightened the clutch, started it and it did backed out again. How tight does the clutch have to be and what would cause it to to come loose like that. Thanks for your posts on this. I wanted to make an update because I hate people who ask questions and then never reply if they got it fixed or not. Still curious on the clutch.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 6, 2019 15:39:38 GMT -5
I pulled the flywheels and filed the points set them at .015. Put some 50:1 mix in and got both saws to start. I did have to prime with some gas in carbs. One of the saws after I got to run the clutch plate backed of the crankshaft and was dragging on the cover. I removed the cover and tightened the clutch, started it and it did backed out again. How tight does the clutch have to be and what would cause it to to come loose like that. Thanks for your posts on this. I wanted to make an update because I hate people who ask questions and then never reply if they got it fixed or not. Still curious on the clutch. Compare your saw with an IPL to ensure all clutch parts are present (thrust washers) and in the correct order. Rope the cylinder and tighten the clutch plate to approx. 160 inch pounds ( 13 ft lbs )
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Post by undee70ss on Feb 6, 2019 15:50:49 GMT -5
Was the bar and chain on the saw that the clutch came loose on?
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Post by jgudde on Feb 6, 2019 17:49:03 GMT -5
Yes bar and chain was on it.
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Post by rowdy235 on Feb 6, 2019 19:07:16 GMT -5
Usually the clutch gets pretty tight when running, the way its designed it tightens as the crank turns. I would expect something is amiss with the clutch itself. Post up some pics if possible.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Feb 6, 2019 20:20:11 GMT -5
The clutch should be sufficiently torqued to allow safely bench testing of the saw without the bar and chain installed, and to NOT launch the clutch across the shop or yard ! No torque wrench or special tool for the clutch ? I'll post an alternate method if needed.
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Post by jgudde on Feb 7, 2019 18:48:22 GMT -5
Going to cut with it to see that will tighten the clutch.
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Post by jgudde on Feb 9, 2019 9:12:00 GMT -5
Will the 50:1 mix be ok in this saw?
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 9, 2019 9:55:05 GMT -5
As long as your carb is set properly,50:1 mix will be sufficient,provided that the 2 cycle oil is a good quality oil.
Ed
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Post by jgudde on Feb 9, 2019 12:05:11 GMT -5
Do I need to run a little richer then?
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Post by edju1958 on Feb 9, 2019 12:13:20 GMT -5
You can if you want,but not necessary. Ed
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Post by sweepleader on Feb 11, 2019 12:46:44 GMT -5
50:1 uses less oil than 40:1 so more of the fuel is gas. That means that 50:1 will be richer at the engine without any adjustments. That means that the carb should actually run better if it is leaned out a little.
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