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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 19, 2018 19:17:48 GMT -5
Hi, folks. New to HoH at the suggestion of a couple folks who saw my question in the Homie threads of some other forums. I'm reviving a nice 150A for a fellow. Has a HK-3B instead of the Walbro. Diaphragms were cardboard but I tracked down a DG-1-HK locally..., then proceeded to launch the metering lever spring into orbit while cleaning surfaces thinking the shaft was a press/snap-in fit in the chamber cover. Duh. With the advice of undee77ss I was able to then track down an OEM 70098 kit which supposedly included the metering lever spring. Turned out to be a RK-2-HK kit with two distinctly different springs..., presumably to also accommodate the other couple of HK carbs. Having had this saw apart and back together several times already servicing the oil pump, points, and messing with this carb, I'm hoping someone here can save me additional trial and error by knowing which spring goes to the HK-3B. I've done quite a bit of searching on the subject with no luck so far. I may also need the fuel inlet elbow if someone knows where I may be able to source one if a spot of SuperGlue won't hold up in a small crack where it enters the housing (it's a nylon inlet elbow). TIA for any enlightenment or suggestions. I tried posting a pic several different ways with no success. Linked image didn't seem to work and attachments were just thumbnail sized. Any advice there would also be helpful. Poge edit: Got it.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 19, 2018 19:39:58 GMT -5
Welcome aboard Pogo! Glad you came here to seek advice.There are a few really good members here who can help you out with your dilemma.I know nothing about the Tilly HK carb as you already know.I didn't even know that Homelite put a Tilly HK carb in the 150 till I saw your post over on AS.The only one that I've messed with was the Walbro HDC.There will be someone here who can help you out,just be patient. As for the replacement elbow for the fuel inlet,I do know of a guy in Maryland,N.Y. who sells them.The replacements are metal though.If the super glue doesn't work,send me a PM & I'll give you the info.
Ed
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 19, 2018 19:46:13 GMT -5
Thanks, Ed. Any tips on posting pics here?
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 19, 2018 19:51:14 GMT -5
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 19, 2018 19:55:08 GMT -5
I guess Dan (Sweepleader) beat me to it on how to post pics.I hope you can figure it out,it can get a little tricky. Ed
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 19, 2018 20:08:06 GMT -5
Thanks, guys. Finally got it and added a pic to my first post.
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 27, 2018 10:51:49 GMT -5
So I have the pics working and went ahead with the shorter of the two springs since not receiving any authoritative advice on which one to use. And somewhere along the line I killed the spark and need to get back under the flywheel to find out why. Points setup looks pretty straightforward and worked fine after doing this the first time. Am I missing something obvious? Cleaned and gapped at .015.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 27, 2018 10:58:54 GMT -5
If I remember correctly,there are two wire that plug in & clamp in place like speaker wires do.One of those two wires might've come unplugged with all the times you've had the engine in & out of the housing.Here's a link to a 150 service manual that Undee70ss gave to me in a thread I did last Mar.on the 150.
Well for some reason that link didn't work.If you contact Greg (Undee70ss),I'm sure he'll send you a copy.It was very helpful to me. Ed
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 27, 2018 12:53:14 GMT -5
I have the service manual. Thanks. And that lug with those two wires appears to be the terminal used for the kill switch to ground the ignition to the case. May have popped loose while jostling the cover into place. I'll be getting back into it shortly.
I noticed in the service manual a reference to a special points tool used for adjusting the gap. Any magic there? Just seems like a simple points setup to me. Gap em at the top of the lobe and you're done.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 27, 2018 15:20:08 GMT -5
The only special points tool that I know of is called a feeler gauge.Lol Ed
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 27, 2018 15:50:20 GMT -5
Manual mentions a 7/32" 'timing wrench' but I got by with just the feeler gauge. Had one of the kill wires pinched underneath the points housing. Have nice spark once again. Also have a new fuel leak now, too. Bad combination. Looks like I need an inlet barb for an HK-3B. No part number in the carb IPL as it appears the barb is part of the carb body itself. Anyone know of a source or suitable substitute? Not sure I want to rely on Seal All. After putting so much time into this thing already I want to finish it right.
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 27, 2018 18:06:12 GMT -5
Not sure if this is the exact "tool" they refer to in the manual but there were once wrenches made specifically for adjusting points. This one has the feeler gauge built in with the wrench that tightened the adjustment bolt.
In the end, any old feeler gauge would do with whatever tool was needed to tighten the hold down screw or bolt. I'm sure a piece of a beer can or an old soda can pull top has been used in a pinch many times in the past. No rocket science involved.
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 28, 2018 15:29:11 GMT -5
Wasn't a combo like that, just a wrench. And I kinda got sidetracked with ignition there for a second, so back to this carb.
Anyone know a part number for the inlet elbow..., or if a Tecumseh 640363 would be the same elbow? Looks to be just the plastic piece that would appear to be a press fit over a brass interference fit insert in the carb body. Any other Tillotson elbows work for the HK? Not much out there on the HK carbs and I'm not quite sure what would be the most effective way to contact V.E. Peterson for information and perhaps a replacement from them.
TIA
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 28, 2018 16:17:15 GMT -5
Wasn't a combo like that, just a wrench. And I kinda got sidetracked with ignition there for a second, so back to this carb. Anyone know a part number for the inlet elbow..., or if a Tecumseh 640363 would be the same elbow? Looks to be just the plastic piece that would appear to be a press fit over a brass interference fit insert in the carb body. Any other Tillotson elbows work for the HK? Not much out there on the HK carbs and I'm not quite sure what would be the most effective way to contact V.E. Peterson for information and perhaps a replacement from them. TIA
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 28, 2018 16:48:50 GMT -5
Thanks. I just found a used HK-3A with a brass elbow on the bay for 8 bux. Think I may take a chance with that as "Plan-B". Just my luck that the first 150-A to come across my bench had the Tilly carb. I have several in my parts saws stash..., all with HDC's.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 28, 2018 18:47:15 GMT -5
Why didn't you just swap out the HK for the HDC? I think our Chainsawlady (Joyce) has some metal inlet elbows. Ed
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Post by pogointhewoods on Nov 28, 2018 19:16:47 GMT -5
Didn't realize they came with HDC's until I was already under water with kits for the Tilly or I woulda. I have an HK-3A on the way with a metal elbow for 8 bux and am hoping a trip through the USC and new diaphragms from the current 3-B and this thing will be out the door never to be seen again! LOL
'Course as luck (or fate) would have it, I have another one sitting here needing a major tear down from another guy who also has a sentimental attachment to his.
Never have found a part number for the elbow except the one from Tecumseh I posted.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 28, 2018 19:51:50 GMT -5
Super 2's had either Walbro carbs or Zama carbs & ya just can't swap them out.You'd have to swap out half the engine to possibly make it work.It's a long story & kinda tough to explain.I'd have to take pics & that'd explain it.
Ed
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