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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 7:23:04 GMT -5
Question about tillotson hl series. I have a 141d in my c5, its been acting super rich with both needles just barely off the sest (about 1/4 turn). It has a new kit in it including needle and seat. I did a pressure test and it holds no pressure at the needle. Bubbles come out through the mouth of the carb if you pressure it under water. What is my next step? If you close the needles it will hold a ton of pressure. Ive adjusted the fulcrum, ive increased spring pressure with a small spacer.
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Post by sawnami on Nov 14, 2018 7:40:40 GMT -5
I usually test the needle and seat by putting pressure in the fuel inlet port on the carb body (see arrow) after I've got the needle and seat parts installed. I use a little WD-40 to wet the needle and area around it as if it had fuel in it. That way you can visually see if everything is sealed at that point before you go together.
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 8:32:38 GMT -5
I usually test the needle and seat by putting pressure in the fuel inlet port on the carb body (see arrow) after I've got the needle and seat parts installed. I use a little WD-40 to wet the needle and area around it as if it had fuel in it. That way you can visually see if everything is sealed at that point before you go together. I wanted to do that but don't have the right adapter to get air pressure in there without assembling the entire carb
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 9:00:08 GMT -5
Carburetor Repair Kit For Tillotson RK-83HL. Kit Parts Are Compatible With Up To 25% Ethanol In Fuel. www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATFGANM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tOc7BbZK7ZQWGThat's the carb kit i used. Im starting to wonder if the seat isnt seated in far enough as is letting air in the side hole paste the seal on the needle.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 14, 2018 9:05:49 GMT -5
That would've been my guess from reading up on the HL carbs used in those saws. Ed
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 9:13:55 GMT -5
That would've been my guess from reading up on the HL carbs used in those saws. Ed
Leaking past the needle seal?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2018 10:01:27 GMT -5
There were some changes made in the way the needles seat between the original and some of the repair kits made later. Originally the seat had the rubber seal the kits now have the rubber tip on the needle to seal. You might verify that you don’t have the two mixed up.
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 10:02:59 GMT -5
There were some changes made in the way the needles seat between the original and some of the repair kits made later. Originally the seat had the rubber seal the kits now have the rubber tip on the needle to seal. You might verify that you don’t have the two mixed up. The kit came with an o ring thats supposed to seal the seat to the body, and the needle has a black tip, maybe rubber?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2018 10:23:39 GMT -5
Yes that should be correct
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 10:25:00 GMT -5
Yes that should be correct Well, must be a bad kit then.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 14, 2018 16:47:26 GMT -5
I usually test the needle and seat by putting pressure in the fuel inlet port on the carb body (see arrow) after I've got the needle and seat parts installed. I use a little WD-40 to wet the needle and area around it as if it had fuel in it. That way you can visually see if everything is sealed at that point before you go together. I wanted to do that but don't have the right adapter to get air pressure in there without assembling the entire carb Compare how the metering lever is situated on the inlet needle. The original lever rested on top of the inlet needle. Most new kits.. the lever has a slot that engages the inlet needle...this may prevent the needle from closing fully. Try putting the metering lever on top of the inlet needle, readjusting, then pressure testing., Or using the original metering lever, inlet needle, and seat. If that doesn't work, have a look at the Tillotson 141D rebuild kit offered by eBay seller; gary* item #201815319590
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 14, 2018 16:48:55 GMT -5
I wanted to do that but don't have the right adapter to get air pressure in there without assembling the entire carb Compare how the metering lever is situated on the inlet needle. The original lever rested on top of the inlet needle. Most new kits.. the lever has a slot that engages the inlet needle...this may prevent the needle from closing fully. Try putting the metering lever on top of the inlet needle, readjusting, then pressure testing., Or using the original metering lever, inlet needle, and seat. If that doesn't work, have a look at the Tillotson 141D rebuild kit offered by eBay seller; gary* item #201815319590 Did that with the new kit, resting the lever on top of the needle. I may have to look into a new kit
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2018 19:16:43 GMT -5
I had the same carburetor give me some of the same problems you are describing and to be honest I never fixed it. I tried different kits, different settings, I tried other things on the saw. I was on Tillotson's website and found a list of 3 U.S. based recommendations for repair work on "vintage" carbs. I picked the closest to me which was EC Carburetors in Tennessee. I have to admit I was really impressed. They charged a very fair price and found numerous issues that I wouldn't have fixed with a kit. They replaced the packing around the Lo and Hi needles, of course all new gaskets and diaphragms, they replaced the seat I had replaced and also replaced the throttle shaft saying it allowed too much air in. Now I have to admit I have recently contacted them about another couple of carbs I am considering sending their way and I got no response from their email. I did make a call though and got immediate response. They have a website if you want to check them out but they are only open I think Monday through Thursday.
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 15, 2018 10:15:01 GMT -5
I had the same carburetor give me some of the same problems you are describing and to be honest I never fixed it. I tried different kits, different settings, I tried other things on the saw. I was on Tillotson's website and found a list of 3 U.S. based recommendations for repair work on "vintage" carbs. I picked the closest to me which was EC Carburetors in Tennessee. I have to admit I was really impressed. They charged a very fair price and found numerous issues that I wouldn't have fixed with a kit. They replaced the packing around the Lo and Hi needles, of course all new gaskets and diaphragms, they replaced the seat I had replaced and also replaced the throttle shaft saying it allowed too much air in. Now I have to admit I have recently contacted them about another couple of carbs I am considering sending their way and I got no response from their email. I did make a call though and got immediate response. They have a website if you want to check them out but they are only open I think Monday through Thursday. I may end up doing that. I did order a new kit of Leon's site, and if that's wrong then we have bigger problems. lol I am fairly certain the problem is isolated to the needle and seat based on my testing. Ill know for sure either way once the kit comes in.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 15, 2018 14:21:26 GMT -5
Locate a tapered plastic adapter so the needle and seat can be tested without assembling the whole carb. Something similar to whats included in a Mityvac 8500 kit.
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 15, 2018 15:15:40 GMT -5
Locate a tapered plastic adapter so the needle and seat can be tested without assembling the whole carb. Something similar to whats included in a Mityvac 8500 kit. Workin on it. I had something like that in a vacuum gauge once upon a time
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 20, 2018 7:41:00 GMT -5
Just because i cant stand a thread left unsolved, the new carb kit from leons solved the problem. Needle and seat were wrong. Ill post a video up later today
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 20, 2018 11:02:23 GMT -5
youtu.be/cirdf3NIfwgFINALLY MAKING CUTS. It doesnt look like a monster in the video, but it feels like it! The wood is some old 20~ inch white oak.
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 20, 2018 13:53:11 GMT -5
Nice!Glad you got it going again! Ed
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