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Post by Brennan on Nov 5, 2018 1:18:59 GMT -5
Well the chainsaw bug got me good. Less than week after getting an XL-123 I found this sitting on OfferUp for 35$     If someone could identify the date of manufacture that would be awesome. I’m also looking for any advice on restoring these older saws as this will be my first (hopefully of many). Curiously it would appear the manual Oiler was deleted at some point even though it appears to be a very low hours saw, was there an option for it not to come with the manual override (copper tubes appear to still be in place)  I look forward to taking you guys along for the ride, and all the advice I’m sure you guys have to share Brennan |
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 5, 2018 1:49:12 GMT -5
Yep,once you have the old Homelite bug (H.C.A.D.)... two saws won't be enough.  Nice Super XL-Automatic ! ....it was built Thursday, February 28th of 1974, unit 386 built that day. |
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 5, 2018 8:24:10 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Nov 5, 2018 11:16:18 GMT -5
Nice find! I have an orange SXL-AO and I wish I could find a nice blue one
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Post by Brennan on Nov 6, 2018 11:51:40 GMT -5
 Ach much too clean for my liking   Ah much better. Never can trust a clean surface, seems you take your eyes off it and it begins to collect unwanted “trinkets”. Got it torn down about as far as I want to for now as I want to get it running and make a few cuts before it comes a show saw  . Now for a few questions and observations-  Anyone had luck making their own tool for this and if so could you please share the knowledge  Sprocket has almost no wear, barely detectable by feel, most likely original as it still had red paint across it and the bar has very little paint taken off it. Cylinder is also pristine. Not a single scratch.    Definitely need a new handlebar mount. Maybe a new clutch cover and air box cover. That appears to be all the corrosion there is though. I’m going to try to have videos of both this and the xl-123 running and cutting up tonight. Brennan |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 6, 2018 12:28:45 GMT -5
You can often remove a clutch with 2 pins and a bar that fits between them. Drill bits that fit the holes snugly work, put the shank end in the hole and a flat bar laid between them. Round might work but it puts more stress on the pins as it presses on them farther away from the surface and tilts the pins in the holes. There is a Homelite tool that has three pins, it's rare and I don't have the pn for it. I have a couple of tools similar to this:  5643ap1s by
There are lots of pin spanners out there, many designs.
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Nov 6, 2018 14:13:42 GMT -5
Nice saw, Brennan. Looks like it has not been used much.
I also used the shank of a drill bit to remove the clutch on my SXLAO, but in a slightly different way than Sweepleader described. I used a single drill bit and tapped on it with a hammer and punch, with a helper holding a ratchet and socket on the flywheel nut. The clutch came loose with a few hits, but the drill bit got slightly bent.
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Post by Brennan on Nov 7, 2018 0:40:22 GMT -5
Well I made a little progress tonight. youtu.be/CpkGqkoxvtkDefinitely needs a slight tuning, and that’s where the experts need to chime in. Saw starts real nice and is more than happy at wide open but doesn’t like to idle and hesitates coming back up from under half throttle. I think it’s running rich so, in on the low side screw? Please correct me as the only tuning I’ve done is on a 68 mustang (but that’s a topic for a different day) Brennan |
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Post by Brennan on Nov 7, 2018 0:42:02 GMT -5
Nice saw, Brennan. Looks like it has not been used much. Thanks |
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Post by Brennan on Nov 7, 2018 18:58:03 GMT -5
youtu.be/v9UbOyYmIhUMade some light progress and got the saw running pretty good, turned out to be running a little to lean. Now that I’ve heard it run and cut, I’m satisfied that it will run after I get it all restored. Question- what sealant should I use along the lip of the gas tank once I get it all cleaned out. I can’t really justify 35$ for redkote since the tank itself is in very good condition and it just needs a really good cleaning. I should be able to get the saw broken down over the next few days but I don’t plan on doing anything to the engine internally since it’s already pristine. Two more questions- What’s the best way to strip the paint off the castings? ( I know many of you are going to recommend sand blasting but I just don’t have the space for a cabinet) Can I run 50:1 using a modern 2 stroke oil and what oil are you guys using in your saws?
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Post by rowdy235 on Nov 7, 2018 22:39:21 GMT -5
youtu.be/v9UbOyYmIhUMade some light progress and got the saw running pretty good, turned out to be running a little to lean. Now that I’ve heard it run and cut, I’m satisfied that it will run after I get it all restored. Question- what sealant should I use along the lip of the gas tank once I get it all cleaned out. I can’t really justify 35$ for redkote since the tank itself is in very good condition and it just needs a really good cleaning. I should be able to get the saw broken down over the next few days but I don’t plan on doing anything to the engine internally since it’s already pristine. Two more questions- What’s the best way to strip the paint off the castings? ( I know many of you are going to recommend sand blasting but I just don’t have the space for a cabinet) Can I run 50:1 using a modern 2 stroke oil and what oil are you guys using in your saws? I haven't done that much stripping but I'd avoid any kind of chemical strippers as they will probably damage the metal. I'd go with sandpaper and good ol' elbow grease if blasting is not an option. You should be fine with 50:1 as long as you are using a good quality modern oil. I run 32:1 to be safe but I have ran 50:1 for years and never had any issues. I just run Ace Hardware brand oil, I like it because its premixed with fuel stabilizer. |
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Post by sawnami on Nov 8, 2018 9:16:59 GMT -5
youtu.be/v9UbOyYmIhUMade some light progress and got the saw running pretty good, turned out to be running a little to lean. Now that I’ve heard it run and cut, I’m satisfied that it will run after I get it all restored. Question- what sealant should I use along the lip of the gas tank once I get it all cleaned out. I can’t really justify 35$ for redkote since the tank itself is in very good condition and it just needs a really good cleaning. I should be able to get the saw broken down over the next few days but I don’t plan on doing anything to the engine internally since it’s already pristine. Two more questions- What’s the best way to strip the paint off the castings? ( I know many of you are going to recommend sand blasting but I just don’t have the space for a cabinet) Can I run 50:1 using a modern 2 stroke oil and what oil are you guys using in your saws? Do you have the fuel tank split apart? Some people use aircraft-grade paint remover. I use 50:1 in every saw that I have 1946 to modern. Never had an issue. |
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Post by Brennan on Nov 8, 2018 9:30:27 GMT -5
]Do you have the fuel tank split apart? Some people use aircraft-grade paint remover. . I haven’t split the tank yet. I’m only going to do it if I can’t get all the hard crusties out of the tank with acetone and some 1/8th steel balls |
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Post by The Lumberjack Preacher on Nov 8, 2018 10:20:38 GMT -5
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Post by Brennan on Nov 15, 2018 20:05:11 GMT -5
Update time! Been busy with school stuff so haven’t had much more than 30 min at a time to work on my restoration, but I have been making progress slowly but surely. I decided to get a second hand media blaster from Craigslist, just a small 20lb pot, and that worked well to get 90% of the work done in 10% of the time. Made a huge mess as I had walnut shell from the back of the garage all the way to the end of the driveway. Worked okay but I will definitely be getting a cabinet for the next saw. Current setup:  ( for those wondering that is a 1968 mustang coupe 302) Spent this afternoon removing the last of the loose paint that I missed and gave everything a good sanding to give the primer something to grab onto  I plan on using a self etching primer as a base coat then filling any major imperfections, priming again, then using the duplicolor light blue metallic that Leon recommends on his site. I’m not sure what clear I’m going to use just yet but it will most likely be a 2 part that I can get from Napa or similar as I have a spray gun to run it through. What’s the best way you guys have found to prep the metal right before painting? I usually use acetone to remove any oil from parts before paint but I’ve also seen arguments for using a highly concentrated solution of tsp. What do you guys recommend. Big shoutout to the chainsawlady for having all the gaskets I needed and at a great price  Final question, is sugar creek supply still the place to go for decals or are people having issues getting what they ordered ( saw a couple other posts of people not to happy about them) I plan on getting to the point of color by the end of thanksgiving break so stay tuned Brennan |
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Post by jerseyhighlander on Nov 16, 2018 17:18:18 GMT -5
Looking good.
I picked up a fairly cheap benchtop blaster from Tractor Supply that I can store out of the way when not in use. Big enough for chainsaws but can fit under a workbench or in the crawlspace side of my basement. I use it with glass bead to good effect and not a lot mess.
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Nov 17, 2018 0:42:11 GMT -5
Nice work, subbed
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Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 19, 2018 0:06:57 GMT -5
Nice prep work so far! I like to spray parts down with Brake Cleaner prior to priming. As far as I am concerned Sugar Creek is still the place to go for decals. Joe does phenomenal work...he might be slow at answering emails sometimes, but he always does answer! Folks have to remember that the decals are his hobby and like most of us he has a full time job.
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Post by Brennan on Mar 3, 2019 19:04:13 GMT -5
Sorry for the lack of activity guys. It’s been either one thing or another and the saw has ended up at the bottom of my to do list. It’s also been to cold in the garage for paint. I have made a few changes though and bought a bench top blasting cabinet from the good old hazard fraud. Makes blasting so much nicer. Once it starts to warm up though I’ll start making progress again.
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Post by undee70ss on Mar 3, 2019 21:36:30 GMT -5
Sorry for the lack of activity guys. It’s been either one thing or another and the saw has ended up at the bottom of my to do list. It’s also been to cold in the garage for paint. I have made a few changes though and bought a bench top blasting cabinet from the good old hazard fraud. Makes blasting so much nicer. Once it starts to warm up though I’ll start making progress again. Thanks for the update. I get you on the cold. I work on them in the basement, but work is more limited I can't use any chemicals because of the water heater and furnace. |
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