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Post by mc123 on Oct 30, 2018 20:24:30 GMT -5
I'm looking for a plastic Oil Line Fitting, Part #50558 for my 360 UT10510. I just picked this saw up and when I went to use it, I noticed that the automatic oiler was not working properly. I inspect the oil filter and line and noticed that the plastic fitting was cracked that gets connected to the oil pump. I'm hoping this is the issue for poor oiling. I'm thinking that the pump is sucking air. It is the nonadjustable type on late model 360's. Does anyone know or have a video on how to remove the oil pump. I read that it can be removed from the front and I have tried. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.   Thanks, Mark Collection: 550,360,245,Super 2,20 Attachments:
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Post by onlyhomelites on Oct 31, 2018 14:42:47 GMT -5
I don't have a video, but you have to remove an index pin/screw from the side of the saw near the sprocket drum. Then you can thread a screw into the front of the pump and use vise-grips to pull it out. But the cracked fitting is definitely your problem. I came across this on a 360 a few months ago after a lot of other work. I replaced the drivecase as I have not found that fitting in the aftermarket. IN theory you could use a carburetor fitting if you found one with the right base size. You could also try JB Welding that one back into place; I have had some success with that when used on a carburetor fuel barb.
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Post by edju1958 on Oct 31, 2018 19:26:36 GMT -5
Bob Johnson has the metal replacement barbs for Walbro & Tillotson carbs.He said he had to go to Hong Kong to get them.I've bought two from him already & I might need a third.You might need to measure your oil barb with a calipers.I think he sells them for around $5.Well worth it IMHO.BUT,on the carbs that I've saved using the metal fuel barb I had to pull the metal part of the fuel barb out that the plastic part you have there attaches to.It's not an easy task because not only are the metal pieces pressed in,I believe they're also glued in as well.I pulled one out with a Vise Grip,the other one I wasn't so lucky,I had to put it in a vise on my work bench to get it out.I don't know how accessible that piece is on your 360 oiler.
Ed
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Post by mc123 on Nov 2, 2018 19:30:12 GMT -5
Thanks Guys, I'm trying the JB weld first hoping that it will do the trick. It's in the process of setting up right now. I'm going to let it cure for a few days. As for the oil pump removal, I figured that was how it came out and tried it before I posted. I must need to apply more force to pull it out. I'm soaking it in penetrating oil now to see if it will make it easier to remove. I'm going to keep looking for the fitting and hope one turns up for sale. Thanks again, Mark
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Post by chainsawlady on Nov 2, 2018 22:41:15 GMT -5
Homelite part number 50508 was still listed in the last price list Homelite pubished-2001. I wold thing it is still available by one of Homelite suppliers. chainsawlady
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2018 8:43:54 GMT -5
Bob Johnson has the metal replacement barbs for Walbro & Tillotson carbs.He said he had to go to Hong Kong to get them.I've bought two from him already & I might need a third.You might need to measure your oil barb with a calipers.I think he sells them for around $5.Well worth it IMHO.BUT,on the carbs that I've saved using the metal fuel barb I had to pull the metal part of the fuel barb out that the plastic part you have there attaches to.It's not an easy task because not only are the metal pieces pressed in,I believe they're also glued in as well.I pulled one out with a Vise Grip,the other one I wasn't so lucky,I had to put it in a vise on my work bench to get it out.I don't know how accessible that piece is on your 360 oiler.
Ed
Are you talking about the metal barb that is pressed into the side of the walbro carbs that the fuel line slips on? I’m just kinda surprised and excited that he has those. I’ve been looking for one for quite sometime. I found the part number on walbros website and searched everywhere. I contacted walbro’s service department and a guy emailed me back saying that the part was still available but never sent me anything on how to order it. |
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 4, 2018 11:42:17 GMT -5
John,yes that's the part I'm talking about.Funny thing is when I contacted Tillotson last winter they told me that that part wasn't available.I just happened to mention it when talking with Bob while ordering parts.I hope he can help you out. Ed
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Post by mc123 on Nov 9, 2018 14:17:27 GMT -5
Guys, Just an update, the JB Welding didn't work. As soon as I pushed the fitting back on, it split the epoxy in the same spot as the crack. I temporarily attached new tubing with a cable tie to the oil pump fitting to see if the pump was working, it is. I don't know how long this is going to last, since I want to use the saw. My Homelite 245 also has the same fitting. I'm debating if I want to tear that saw apart and scrounge the part . As of right now, I'm still looking for the oil pump fitting. Thanks, Mark
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 9, 2018 15:23:02 GMT -5
I would have put the fitting on and THEN put on the JB Weld. I would have smeared it all around the plastic fitting, in the crack and onto the metal, all around and under to seal things up. You might want to try that. I might also have put a couple of turns of fine wire around the cracked fitting and twisted it tight before I put on the JB. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Remember, we are all in this together, we're pulling for you.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 9, 2018 18:37:43 GMT -5
Guys, Just an update, the JB Welding didn't work. As soon as I pushed the fitting back on, it split the epoxy in the same spot as the crack. I temporarily attached new tubing with a cable tie to the oil pump fitting to see if the pump was working, it is. I don't know how long this is going to last, since I want to use the saw. My Homelite 245 also has the same fitting. I'm debating if I want to tear that saw apart and scrounge the part . As of right now, I'm still looking for the oil pump fitting. Thanks, Mark If you are unable to locate a new plastic fitting ,try a different adhesive and approach to repairing the old one. Remove any JB Weld on the fitting...scrape-sand, etc. De-grease the plastic and metal fittings with Brake Clean. Scuff the outside of the fittings with a scotch-brite pad or very fine sandpaper and de-grease again. Coat the inside of the plastic fitting and outside of the metal fitting with gasoline-resistant sealer.(Permatex MOTOSEAL) Push the plastic fitting onto metal fitting. Cinch up the plastic fitting with a wire clamp made from fine wire, (Mig welding wire,twist ties,etc.) Apply some Motoseal to the outside of the plastic fitting.. especially the cracked area. Let adhesive fully cure and enjoy. Good Luck with it ! " Keep your gluing precise" |
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Post by sweepleader on Nov 9, 2018 20:06:34 GMT -5
RTV will not stand up to gasoline.
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Post by 5terrysupersaws on Nov 9, 2018 21:07:02 GMT -5
RTV will not stand up to gasoline. True,I've edited my post above to ensure a more " Permanent-Temporary Repair".  |
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Post by edju1958 on Nov 9, 2018 21:34:14 GMT -5
I have a 360 with a cracked plastic fuel inlet.Will the Motoseal work for it too? Ed
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Post by rowdy235 on Nov 9, 2018 23:00:24 GMT -5
"Seal-All" is a good gas/oil resistant sealant that would probably work well for this application. Comes in a yellow tube, only a couple bucks IIRC. They claim you can even put it right over leaking gas and have it seal.
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