|
Post by undee70ss on Nov 11, 2018 13:29:35 GMT -5
I'd like to know where to find the specs on any condenser for any saw. They are in the Homelite Shop Manuals. These can be downloaded from Leon’s site.
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Nov 11, 2018 13:33:12 GMT -5
For the XL-123...
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 11, 2018 14:57:50 GMT -5
Post by P.E.B.K.A.C. on Nov 11, 2018 14:57:50 GMT -5
I'd like to know where to find the specs on any condenser for any saw.The only specs that are provided in an IPL is the plug gap,points gap,& coil gap.There is nothing mentioned about how many mF's (micro-farats) a condenser should have. Also you said that if a condenser produces spark,then the condenser is good.I disagree with that statement.Tell me what happens when a condenser begins to breaks down?(a condenser doesn't just suddenly stop working,it gets weaker & weaker over time).Also,you can have varying degrees of spark - a good "hot"spark,usually bluish in color,or you can have a weak spark,which is yellowish in color.
Ed
You disagree with an Electrical Engineer and Master Auto Technician's statements. The first step in learning something is to admit that you know nothing about the subject.
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Nov 11, 2018 15:13:53 GMT -5
Thanks Greg,that was very helpful! I'm not used to going to service manuals to look up info.I'll have to keep that in mind for next time. Ed
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 12, 2018 10:08:25 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Nov 12, 2018 10:08:25 GMT -5
I noticed that the air gap on the 123 has been seriously dropped from the "normal".015 to a new gap of .004-.008.Isn't that a rather tight gap?Also,other than a feeler gauge,I don't have anything to set it that close & as you know,the feeler gauge is made of metal which will stick to the magnet on the flywheel.Any suggestions,other than getting a brass feeler gauge set? Ed
|
|
|
Post by undee70ss on Nov 12, 2018 11:16:31 GMT -5
I noticed that the air gap on the 123 has been seriously dropped from the "normal".015 to a new gap of .004-.008.Isn't that a rather tight gap?Also,other than a feeler gauge,I don't have anything to set it that close & as you know,the feeler gauge is made of metal which will stick to the magnet on the flywheel.Any suggestions,other than getting a brass feeler gauge set? Ed Just set as close as possible without rubbing. Copy paper is thinner.
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 12, 2018 19:47:09 GMT -5
Post by fossil on Nov 12, 2018 19:47:09 GMT -5
20 lb copy paper is .004"
|
|
|
Post by onlyhomelites on Nov 13, 2018 8:27:57 GMT -5
I like to keep a std. business card in the shop for coil air gap...works great every time!
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Nov 15, 2018 9:18:05 GMT -5
I finally got the points wres all connected yesterday.What a giant PITA to try to get the points strap,condenser wire,& the coil wire all hooked up to that little screw.And trying top get access to that little screw with a screwdriver is another story in itself.I don't understand how someone could design a saw & have things so difficult to access.Maybe there was a special tool that was designed just for that screw?Regardless,the new points & condenser are in & hooked up.After I get home llater today I'll put the points coverr & flywheel back on,followed by the recoil & I'll see if she's got spark. Ed
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 15, 2018 16:11:51 GMT -5
Post by fossil on Nov 15, 2018 16:11:51 GMT -5
I finally got the points wres all connected yesterday.What a giant PITA to try to get the points strap,condenser wire,& the coil wire all hooked up to that little screw.And trying top get access to that little screw with a screwdriver is another story in itself.I don't understand how someone could design a saw & have things so difficult to access.Maybe there was a special tool that was designed just for that screw?Regardless,the new points & condenser are in & hooked up.After I get home llater today I'll put the points coverr & flywheel back on,followed by the recoil & I'll see if she's got spark. Ed
Yep. Probably the worst points set up I've seen as well. Lots of crappy engineers out there.
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 15, 2018 17:21:13 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Nov 15, 2018 17:21:13 GMT -5
While putting the saw back together I noticed that there were a couple of extra holes in the points cover that shouldn't be there.IO figured out why they were there.One of the screws was stripped out,so the previous person who worked on the saw before me must've thought they could drill two new holes anywhere & tap for new screw holes.I fixed the old screw hole with a toothpick & a slightly smaller screw.It tightened right up & I have no fears of it ever coming out.I need to put some aluminum tape over the extra holes in the points cap & put the flywheel on & set the coil gap.Then I'll see if this old girl has spark again.You can't see where the screw is because my finger is covering it. Ed
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 17, 2018 20:31:17 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Nov 17, 2018 20:31:17 GMT -5
I've got a problem - I put the saw back together & checked to see if I had spark,I don't.I then put a chip in the saw & I have great spark.I checked the switch,it's OK.I've narrowed it down to the points most likely not being set properly.Are these more difficult to do than others?It seems that I had a heck of a time getting them set.I thought I had them,but apparently not.It's a real PITA when I have to have a fairly bright light shining on the work I'm doing & a magnifier on top of that.I've set points on other saws & didn't have anywhere near the problems I'm having on this piece of equipment. Ed
|
|
|
Post by Brennan on Nov 18, 2018 2:24:54 GMT -5
These aren’t that hard to set. I used a .015 feeler gauge and set them with the piston at top dead center. It is possible that if it’s a used set of points it will be worn and out of the adjustment range.
|
|
|
XL-123
Nov 18, 2018 10:23:33 GMT -5
Post by edju1958 on Nov 18, 2018 10:23:33 GMT -5
These aren’t that hard to set. I used a .015 feeler gauge and set them with the piston at top dead center. It is possible that if it’s a used set of points it will be worn and out of the adjustment range. It's a brand new set of points & condenser that I installed.I guess I'll have to tear it down again & see what happened. Ed
|
|
|
Post by Brennan on Nov 18, 2018 10:30:27 GMT -5
I actually just had this problem with my xl-123, the nos points had oxidized to the point where very little to no electrical connection was being made. After very lightly sanding them they were working again.
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Nov 18, 2018 10:38:51 GMT -5
I suppose you might have something there.After all,sitting around in a warehouse for the past 25+ yrs.could be detrimental to some sensitive electrical parts.I know this happens with condenser quite a bit - time is a condenser's enemy. Ed
|
|
|
Post by edju1958 on Jun 2, 2019 19:55:55 GMT -5
I only had to wait for 6 1/2 months to get this little beauty up & running.I had a friend of mine stop by last month & give me a hand with a couple of problem saws & this was one of them.I had one of the wires being grounded out & that's why I had no spark.I thought I'd take a shot at getting it running today without pulling the carb,I got lucky.It pulled fuel & fired right up.I made a couple of adjustments on the carb & it runs pretty good.I just need to fine tune it.It's finally a runner! Ed
|
|