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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 16, 2018 15:18:12 GMT -5
Got all the gasket surfaces cleaned up and cut a new gasket for the reed valve spacer. The gasket surface doesn't look very clean in the picture but it is nice and smooth. Now just waiting on parts, I hate waiting!
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 17, 2018 19:48:24 GMT -5
Spark plug wire and boot have arrived, just waiting on the carb kit now....
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 19, 2018 18:30:06 GMT -5
Carb kit has arrived! Can't wait til the weekend!
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 21, 2018 23:06:29 GMT -5
Little progress tonight. First order of business got new plug wire installed and ignition back in Got the boot installed, hooked up a plug and tested for spark (click for video) Rebuilt the carb, reinstalled along with the rear handle assembly Waiting til tomorrow, got to get a few pieces of hardware to continue reassembly!
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Post by tjthechainsawmech on Sept 21, 2018 23:13:56 GMT -5
Nice work man, hope to see her running soon
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 21, 2018 23:18:24 GMT -5
Thanks man! Shooting for tomorrow to at least hear it run. Should 32:1 be okay?
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Post by undee70ss on Sept 22, 2018 5:15:47 GMT -5
Thanks man! Shooting for tomorrow to at least hear it run. Should 32:1 be okay? Yes
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 22, 2018 16:29:18 GMT -5
Got the saw put all back together today. Filled it up and went to start but haven't been able to get running yet. Flooded out when I tried to get it started, got a couple pops but that was about it. May have to pull the carb back off and take another look inside, seems like it is flooding out anytime I try to start it. Also had some issues with the recoil but those seem to have been resolved. Here's some pictures of it coming back together:
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 22, 2018 17:25:05 GMT -5
Alright a little update. Went out to try starting after sitting vertically w/ exhaust down for about an hour. Still nothing. Also noticed within a couple pulls I had liquid fuel in the intake again, so I figured there must be something wrong internally with the carburetor.
I pulled the carb off and took apart. The only thing I can imagine letting that much fuel by would be the metering lever. The original lever pushed down on the top of the needle valve, whereas the replacement has a fork that fits on the needle valve, if that makes sense. All documentation I can find says the lever should be level with the body when the valve is closed, but mine definitely is not, its probably 1/8" above the body!
I'm thinking this may be the problem. I reinstalled the original lever and it appears to set level with the body. Should I switch back to that one? Bend the new one? Need some carb guru's help here!
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Post by 1975 Super XL on Sept 22, 2018 17:38:23 GMT -5
The lever usually does go flush with the body, but it depends on the model of carburetor. If the lever is sticking up that far, when you put the diaphragm on it will push the lever down and hold the needle open, constantly flooding the engine. The forked lever probably has better control of the valve than the flat one. I would use the forked lever and adjust it to the factory height specification.
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Post by sweepleader on Sept 22, 2018 18:08:19 GMT -5
The forked lever can lift the needle, the flat one can only allow the needle to lift. I am not convinced that there is a great deal of difference if the setting is correct but I think I would use the lever that fits closest to correctly without a great deal of bending. Hard to tell from here which that would be. If the original needle is in good shape, I would be inclined to replace it and the original lever as that combination did work at one time. If the engine runs well, I might try again with the new parts.
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 22, 2018 18:57:47 GMT -5
Well I tried altering the new lever to where it sat flat. Didn't really have to bend it that much. Put the carburetor back together reassembled and was able to get it to run for a few seconds by priming but does not appear the fuel is getting in through the carburetor. Pulled pry 5-6 times and then my new starter rope broke. Icing on the cake is it now appears fuel is leaking from the carburetor area.
Needless to say I'm pretty done with it at this point lol but next chance I get I am going to remove the carburetor again and see if I can figure out where its leaking and why fuel isn't getting to the engine.
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Post by onlyhomelites on Sept 22, 2018 22:30:32 GMT -5
On those gravity fed Tillotsons, you don't want the lever to be indexed to the pin. I've run across this several times and it's a recipe for just what you are experiencing. The way those are mounted, gravity will take care of allowing the inlet needle to drop as the arm moves. I'd reset the lever to flat with the inlet needle against the lever, but not indexed. The fuel leak is likely due to the needle not seating fully. I know it's a PITA to keep taking the carburetor off, but it's worth it to get it right. I posted a video a while back that showed work on a Tilly from a Super Wiz 66 that had this same issue when I got it in...might be of some use to you:
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 23, 2018 14:34:54 GMT -5
On those gravity fed Tillotsons, you don't want the lever to be indexed to the pin. I've run across this several times and it's a recipe for just what you are experiencing. The way those are mounted, gravity will take care of allowing the inlet needle to drop as the arm moves. I'd reset the lever to flat with the inlet needle against the lever, but not indexed. The fuel leak is likely due to the needle not seating fully. I know it's a PITA to keep taking the carburetor off, but it's worth it to get it right. I posted a video a while back that showed work on a Tilly from a Super Wiz 66 that had this same issue when I got it in...might be of some use to you: Thank you! That video was super helpful! When I first redid the carburetor I thought about putting it back that way but then I thought "nah, whoever designed this rebuild kit knows a lot more than me". Guess I should have just stuck with my gut. Anyway got a new starter rope and pulled the carb apart again today. Set it up like it was originally, to where the lever pushes on top of the inlet needle. I also found out the gasket for the reed block had folded over last time so that may have been one reason why it wasn't running If nothing else I can now say I am very versed with the carburetor and recoil assemblies lol. Put it all back together, primed it with a little two stroke and it lit off first pull! I'm still fighting some issues with the chain- doesn't want to turn freely but here is a video of the saw idling: It feels great to finally hear it run. Once I get my parts saw I can install the muffler and cylinder cover and do the final tune. Hopefully by then I can get the chain squared away as well.
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Post by sweepleader on Sept 23, 2018 16:58:01 GMT -5
Nice work, never give up.
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 23, 2018 17:33:46 GMT -5
Nice work, never give up. You've got that right. It can be pretty easy to get discouraged when you've spent time working on something and don't get the results you're wanting. I got the chain freed up and turning good, seems to be working great. Tinkered with the high speed but its a little tricky. I'm used to having them 4-cycle @ WOT under no load and clear up when cutting. Easier said than done when the saw has a governor lol. Also doesn't seem to turn the rpms of the "newer" saws. I think I wound up being about 1 turn out on the high side and seems to be pretty good. Of course I'll have to re-tune once i get the exhaust on it. The only other thing I can think of that may require attention will be the chain. Its pretty much wore out. Any sources for 1/2" chain? Or a way to convert to .404"? It is a nice addition to my collection
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 23, 2018 19:07:39 GMT -5
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Post by undee70ss on Sept 23, 2018 21:40:47 GMT -5
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Post by rowdy235 on Sept 23, 2018 21:45:45 GMT -5
Tempting. I'm guessing based on the prices I've seen for 1/2 chain I could buy that and a .404 chain for much less. The bars are .063 correct?
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Post by undee70ss on Sept 24, 2018 4:39:02 GMT -5
Tempting. I'm guessing based on the prices I've seen for 1/2 chain I could buy that and a .404 chain for much less. The bars are .063 correct? Yes. Bars are .063. Using .404 would be WAY cheaper.
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